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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, might this be a center shot, or another bow set up, issue or just my fabulous form...

Been working on an indoor set up, which has been flying well for me, and decided to throw a couple bare shafts just for giggles... Bare shafts are impacting horribly stiff [like nearly 20cm left at 18m, RH shooter], but are landing wickedly nock left/weak every time [enough angle BlindArcher can see them]... My first thought is center shot, I lent my center shot tool to someone and had to best guess it. I know I should just adjust it and see, but I'm Leary as the set up has been shooting personal bests by a huge margin and I don't want to "lose the magic."

Draw weight is about 32lbs, arrows are RX7-23s [.420 spine] cut 28.5" tube length with 180gn points and 120gn weights, 5" AAE Trad vanes and Easton bushing with 19-1 Beiter nocks.

Or... horrid form, and if it's more likely form than equipment, without a video what might I look for to try to clean it up?
 

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I am shooting 35 pounds on the fingers and using the RX7 -21's with 120 grains up front and cut 29.5 tube length. I would say you are stiff but with 300 grains up front that is a bunch of tip weight to get accelerated. Bareshafts may just have the tail trying to pass the tip as they leave the bow or way to much outboard center shot sending the bareshaft to the left then going false weak closing in on the target . My curiosity asks how you got that much weight up front. The Easton adjustable points for the 23 size shows only 90 grains at starting weight. Looks like a bunch of testing is in your future. Just went to the Easton spine advisor and you are pretty close. It says a 200 grain point at you poundage though. So maybe take some weight out and check the center shot of the bow. What is the button tension set at?
 

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When I tried the RX7 23's they flew real weird when I loaded up the front with weight. Left and right became very erratic. My goal was to use 200 or 250 grains on a full length shaft to get to point on. I cut 2 inches off the full shaft to get them to tune with 125 grains from a 40 lb longbow, not heavy enough for indoors for me.
 

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I misread that, if Corene1 is right, then I would suggest that 300 grains up front is a LOT of weight. In my experience, running really heavy point weight results in wonky arrow flight, even at 18 meters. Are you noticing any damage anywhere on the arrow, which would be suggestive of arrow striking the bow somewhere.

If you are going to stick with what's scoring great, I would definitely do a complete re-tune: adjust bow weight, tiller, center shot, nock set height, brace height, bareshaft tuning for verifying everything, etc. I would also make sure nothing is catching the bow string, such as clothing.

As far as form, hard to say without seeing what your shot looks like. Any videos for viewing available?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am shooting 35 pounds on the fingers and using the RX7 -21's with 120 grains up front and cut 29.5 tube length. I would say you are stiff but with 300 grains up front that is a bunch of tip weight to get accelerated. Bareshafts may just have the tail trying to pass the tip as they leave the bow or way to much outboard center shot sending the bareshaft to the left then going false weak closing in on the target . My curiosity asks how you got that much weight up front. The Easton adjustable points for the 23 size shows only 90 grains at starting weight. Looks like a bunch of testing is in your future. Just went to the Easton spine advisor and you are pretty close. It says a 200 grain point at you poundage though. So maybe take some weight out and check the center shot of the bow. What is the button tension set at?

Using TopHat LL Apex points [180gn] and installed a 5cm 6x1.25mm all thread rod [120gn]. No contact, and sighted observers have said fletched arrows [only ones I've had someone observe] are flying out of the bow reasonably well. I repurposed these shafts from my compound days by increasing the point weight. I know the build sounds wreched, but my average scores with these is nearly 60pts higher than my more appropriately tunable ACEs. On my "best practice" days ][and yes, practice scores mean nothing], I'm within a few points of national VI indoor records. At the moment, as long as I'm getting these kinds of results I'm reluctant to change much of anything, I was just hoping for some insight/understanding of the BS flight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Horribly stiff.

I’d suggest you go back to something basic and simple.

You need something in the area of 1814, .800 spine range. Maybe even 1716, .900 spine range.

I do have some 1716s I can build up and try, perhaps out of my outdoor bow since it's laying around at the moment, but as above my bad choice in arrows is giving me results beyond anything I've done indoors to this point. Definitely not a forgiving set up; my bad releases are punished severely, but overall averages are way up. With my next big indoor event in a month, I'm reluctant to try something drastically different unless it's just a honeymoon phase and it all falls apart soon.
 

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You know tune isn't everything. If you are getting repeatable shots with a setup that is not a perfect tune who can argue with it. The fact that you are hitting your personal best with this setup speaks volumes.
 

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Sorry, I may have missed it barebow/string walk or hooked at the nock??

RX-23s Definitely stiff beyond reasonable form differences. I have 33-34# OTF and I have the RX-22s (32"shafts only 120gr points) tuned almost perfect for spine. I can literally shift a few inches left OR right reliably with a 1/4 turn on the tiller bolts...amazing...finally....

HOWEVER. I still get erratic bareshaft nock point 'symptoms' up and down with ANY mistake on release...and often left/right inconsistencies even though nock and spine seem to be perfect when I am. Ultimately, I am not finding the RXs forgiving for stringwalking with the extra axis of spine taken into account, at least not compared to 4mm carbons. They shoot without a hitch if I split finger or 3 up on the nock.

Maybe I would have better results for my fletched groupings by stiffing them up regardless of BS?? It all goes back to imperfect form, I know, but thats not likely to change in the next few weeks. But it sounds like you have a setup that works for you when it 'counts'. I would NOT make a change until next indoor season... in the spirit of what monkeywrench said.
 

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Using TopHat LL Apex points [180gn] and installed a 5cm 6x1.25mm all thread rod [120gn]. No contact, and sighted observers have said fletched arrows [only ones I've had someone observe] are flying out of the bow reasonably well. I repurposed these shafts from my compound days by increasing the point weight. I know the build sounds wreched, but my average scores with these is nearly 60pts higher than my more appropriately tunable ACEs. On my "best practice" days ][and yes, practice scores mean nothing], I'm within a few points of national VI indoor records. At the moment, as long as I'm getting these kinds of results I'm reluctant to change much of anything, I was just hoping for some insight/understanding of the BS flight.
You've answered your own question in a sense. Leave it alone, unless something causes you to require a harder look at your set up and your arrows.

As noted already, your arrows are probably stiff, and also severely front heavy, causing the wonky bare shaft flight.

But you don't shoot the tune necessarily, you shoot what you have. IIRC Brady's Vegas 900 score was shot with 2512's, and I believe he made a comment to the effect of the arrow flight not being great, but they kept flying into the 10 ring, so he stopped worrying about it. And if it's giving you big scores, it's all good!
 
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