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I am still waiting for my Slick Tricks as are everyone else. I picked up a couple of cheaper packs of broadheads from e-bay--Magnus Snuffers and Eastman Titanium 4 blade (ST imitations) both 125gr. Anyway, I have been shooting well-groups less than 2 inches at 18-20 yds.
My set up is as follows--29in draw, 65 or so lbs--Darton Avalanche (60-70) shooting release, Beman 340 ICS with 2in blazers at R helical)--I was using Gold Tip 5570 with the same set up, and was advised to get a stiffer arrow.
I decided to test the broadheads. With the broadheads, I hit about 4-5 inches to the left once again (previous issue). I should let you know that I took the bow to the shop and had it retuned about 2 weeks ago. Using the Easton guide, I moved the rest toward the riser. Now both the Snuffers and the Eastmans were close, but the field tips were 4-5 inches to the left.
Here is the question--If I do not receive the ST's in time for the start of the season (2 weeks from now) Should I just practice with the broadheads, and adjust the sights to fine tune the broadheads, or is there something I could do to get both to hit at the same area?

Mike
 

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Grip

Check how you grip the riser. Too much torque for a right handed shooter will send your BH's left of the FT's. Grip the riser between the thumb and index finger, along the meaty part of the thumb. Lightly put pressure there, so the bow is free to move. Actually when gripped properly, you can squeeze all you want and won't torque the bow.The fixed blade on the front of the arrow wants to control the flight of the arrow whereas the vanes on the FT's control that arrow. You have adjusted your rest to accomidate the BH's. Torquing the grip is 99% of the time the problem with BH's shooting where your FT's hit. The less hand/finger contact on the riser, the better.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Over the summer I have done as you have described --The fleshy part of my thumb is basically the only part of my bowhand to touch the grip.
WHat's next?
 

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have you spin tested those broadheads on the arrows? I think it may make a big difference. Only about 1 in 4 or 5 of my Eastmans didn't wobble badly when I spin tested them. When I got them true by matching a particular broadhead to a particular arrow and/or used a thin plastic washer for that purpose, they DID fly better. Check the Easton guide on bow tuning and see what it says, but also tune your arrows and broadheads.
p.s. I switched to Muzzy 100 gr 3 blades. The six-pack comes with practice blades and while my bow is not tuned that good, they do fly with the field points to 25 yards just fine.
 

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BH flight

Make sure your rest is centershot by doing a walk back tune. "Nuts & Bolts" posts an excellent post in the "Bowtuning"section. This will go a long way in getting your BH's to hit with FT's. But I have found hand torque is the key. Buddy of mine shoots a Trykon, 67#. Has 1" groups @ 50 yards with FT's, but he screws on a Slick trick, hits 5" to left. I shoot his bow and shoot his FT's & BH's 5" to left also because that is how his bow is sighted to accomodate for his torquing the riser. I showed him how to properly grip the riser to alleviate the torque, and he groups everything. Best thing to do is have someone watch you shoot. Stand on the left side, then right side and watch. Make sure you are following thru AFTER the shot also.I also am a Firearms Instructor at the Police Academy and we can't stress follow thru enough, especially when shooting a handheld weapon. Nice, relaxed grip and you'll do fine. Concentrate on the spot you want to hit, with the pin slightly out of focus and feel the shot thru. Hope this helps.
Check this post out:http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=379916&highlight=cam+lean. Mike
 
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