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Olympic Style Shooting as a Hunter

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4.7K views 55 replies 26 participants last post by  Elmosaurus  
#1 ·
I figured I'd post this to get some feedback and see what you guys think about this topic. I've been shooting my recurve a lot and wanted to address some of my consistency problems.

Last week I did a one on one training session with an olympic style coach. I told him that I was strictly a hunter and wanted a better foundation to build off of in my shooting, and really be able to utilize back tension. He told me that was great and we scheduled a session. I don't believe the guy was a hunter, but I figured if Olympic archers can experience good accuracy at their long ranges, there's probably something I can learn from them.

First thing that happens is he wants to watch me shoot a 5 arrow group. I do that like I do in typical practice and it was a solid group, actually the only actual arrow group I managed the entire evening. He explains to me I'm all screwed up but I've done a good job of managing those flaws, I assumed that's what I would be told, so the first thing he works on is my bow hand, he tells me to curl my wrist in like I'm making a forearm muscle, I have an oak tree for a wrist and very little flexibility so it actually was a very uncomfortable way to shoot. He then had me do a rotational draw(I've seen it explained by Rod Jenkins, but I've never heard him talk about the curled wrist) I had a big problem knocking my arrow off the rest doing a draw like that, especially with the curled wrist.

From there he asked me why I anchor so far up? I anchor middle finger corner of the mouth, so I told him to get the arrow closer to my eye for gapping purposes. He tells me I should be anchoring below my chin, using my jaw line and neck as anchor points. He explained that the string should be centered almost all the way to the tip of the arrow. With my face anchor, the string wasn't really even in my sight. He told me to shoot a group that way... and well I literally had to aim 5 feet below the dot at 20 yards to come anywhere near it.

He told me stringwalking would be the best way for me to hunt. I told him I would try it but it was not something I originally intended to do. At 20 yards I had to hold my drawing hand roughly 5 inches under the arrow nock and my arrows flew wildly. I asked him if there was a way to get my face anchor to work, and he said as long as I couldn't line up the string on the arrow, I wouldn't achieve consistent accuracy.

He said my grip on the bow was good, but wanted me to try a push pull method, I did and hated it, I felt I had an inconsistent bowhand/ release.

By the end of the night, I hadn't shot a group smaller than the size of my chair with the exception of the first group with my method. I spent the next couple days trying to use his advice, and after putting 3 arrows into the wall and breaking them, I switched back to my old way. My drawing wrist is still in pain almost a week later.

My question here is does the string really have to line up down the arrow? I've seen some dang good hunters at full draw and I don't believe their string is lined up. Also wrist position, is it important to have it curled in for back tension or is straight wrist fine? The session left me with more questions than answers, so of course I know there's better shooters here than I am... Is there something to what I learned, or should I go back to the drawing board. My goal is to eliminate the occasional arrow I throw left, and develop better consistency at farther ranges
 
#2 ·
Can Olympic form techniques be used for hunting? Probably. Are they all optimal? Most likely not.

Can 'barebow' form techniques be used in Olympic Recurve? Probably. Are they all optimal? Probably not.

There is a reason many of the techniques for barebow have evolved and differ from Olympic style shooting.

More experienced veterans will probably chime in, but what you need to find is someone wise in mixing the techniques to extract those that help perform optimally for each discipline.

My opinions; nothing more.

Curled wrist? That puts tension in the hook probably. I'd say bad.

Rotational draw? Ideally helps engage rhomboid, and bring draw should around to create shoulder to shoulder to bow wrist alignment. (steadier hold and easier to create back tension for the subconscious release) This is good.

High anchor? As you know, to get arrow closer to point on. When you aren't relying on sights, this is good. Kinda pointless when you have a sight pin.

String alignment? It has merit. But this will largely depend on your accuracy needs, and at what distance. Hunting has slightly different requirements IMHO; an inch to the left or right at ranges up to 20 yards is still a good shot. In Olympic, it means you've missed the ten ring, and that can make a huge difference when the race it tight. So, 'sorta important, but not the end all be all'... consistency of placing that string blur, and learning to aim for it is more important in my opinion.


Limbwalker had an excellent thread recently about just this topic; how do we get better acceptance and teaching/coaching of non Olympic style recurve shooting. Just because they are both single string bows, doesn't mean they should be shot exactly the same way for these different disciplines, as you obviously can see now.... :)


Cheers,
E.
 
#3 ·
I think you got some good info and some not so much. The basic form is the same but you are right that a higher anchor reduces gaps. I have done some videos based on what that coach was telling you but modified some for the way we shoot. See if they help any.
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheMoebow1/videos
And Yes, I think that the string wrist out is important to help with setting back tension.

Arne
 
#6 ·
You need a coach that understands the issues specific to shooting barebow. I would tell him thank you and move on.
 
#7 ·
This?...

"so the first thing he works on is my bow hand, he tells me to curl my wrist in like I'm making a forearm muscle,..."

would've raised a red flag for me and this?...

"From there he asked me why I anchor so far up? I anchor middle finger corner of the mouth,..."

would've (at least mentally) ended my session with him.
 
#8 ·
I'm a proponent of qualified coaching.

Don't walk but RUN away from that guy.
 
#10 ·
M -

Based ONLY on what you posted, which by definition is biased:

He might not be the best coach for you.

A good Olympic coach (or rather, instructor), needs to either start at the beginning for a new shooter OR work with what you have and correct the most egregious flaw first. It's pretty rare (but has happened) I have to tell some one to forget everything they are doing.

And by the way, the best thing a "bow hunter" can do is take an Olympic shooter to lunch (and that's not an original quote by me). BUT, the "coach" has to know what his doing/dealing with and the "student" has to know what he's in for.

Viper1 out.
 
#11 ·
He told me stringwalking would be the best way for me to hunt.
I'll throw the question out to the hunters: do you hunt with stringwalking anchoring under the jaw?

Maybe some folks know the exact distance from their tree stand to bait pile, and they tied a bit of dental floss for a fixed crawl. But I'm trying to imagine counting off Bateman stitches while hunting, and I'm just not seeing it.

I'm not bashing the guy: I also curl my wrist, but relaxed. I also line up string and arrow: it's how I judge windage. It also tells me, when I release, how clean that release was.
 
#12 ·
Target Archery and Bow Hunting are exactly the same.

Except for the parts that are completely different.

There is good stuff to be learned from an Olympic style coach. However the whole thing about curling your bow hand and wrist as if you're trying to make forearm muscles stand out?
Not a happening thing!

So your efforts to seek to learn more are to be applauded. Should have an opportunity to try it again with an Olympic coach, I strongly suggest you give it another shot.

But in this particular case, walk away.
 
#15 ·
Core fundamentals are the same but Olympic Archery is a totally different animal, I'm a little concerned about the wrist thing, if you feel pain you shouldn't be doing it, period.

Years ago I was lucky enough to spend time with Korean Coach Kim who led the women's Olympic Korean team to many victories, while he was working with me he felt stiffness/resistance in my bow elbow and told me not to rotate elbow out during my setup (an old injury from Aikido days), he was an amazing Coach and shoots traditional Korean bows so he had some understanding of the differences between Olympic and Traditional styles.

Don't give up, the two different disciplines can compliment each other, but I would keep them totally separate, keep your Trad Form and lean to shoot a full Oly setup, take what you learned from that experience and apply what's relevant to your Hunting style (i.e. alignment, BT etc), this is what I did and worked out pretty well for me.
 
#17 ·
I'm no Hunter but I hear most SW's that bowhunt put marks on the string for quick access. I saw on the start of 'Modern Traditional' DVD Ty Pelfry taking a Deer 45y with SW method, so it seems it might be a little slower than Instinctive aiming but it opens up your ability to confidently take game at longer distances, which means like Compounds you don't need to shoot quickly.

I'm shooting index finger corner of mouth SW method 42# and my point on is 65y with light target arrows, heavier drawweight/hunting arrows I would likely still have crawls out to 50 yards
 
#18 ·
KSL and Coach Lee don't teach a curled bow arm. I'd ask that coach where he got that info. I never even heard of that. Then I'd ask how many certifications he has and with who.

A question for you. Did you ask him to teach you Olympic archery? Because with that anchor that's what he was doing. I would have said that I can't anchor that way because I want to hunt not target shoot. HAVE YOU EVER TAUGHT THAT ANCHOR TO ANYONE NOT USING A SIGHT? If he said yes to that question along with the curled wrist I'd hit the trail.

An Olympic coach is good for teaching Olympic style, duh. BUT a student that is shooting without sights like us, the coach has to have some knowledge of what we do to be effective. So you can't anchor where he told you to and that throws out his string alignment idea. The difference between an anchor in the middle of your chin and corner of your mouth is at least an inch left and right.

Bowmania
 
#29 ·
When I asked him about the lesson, I told him right away my sole focus was hunting, and learning proper back tension. We had a conversation on why I was hesitant to try the low anchor because I thought it would be a hindrance in the woods. Now obviously it's hard for me to articulate exactly the type of training he gave me, and as another poster pointed out there will obviously be some bias in my explanation. I'm not here to bag on the guy, he may be a great coach, and I may be a moron(and i'm sure there's a better chance of the latter being true)

I don't like to be the student that disagrees with the teacher, and if this post says anything, it's that I'm unsure of the teaching and wanted to see if I was on the right track. I know I need to tweak my form/release to improve my foundation. My hesitation is the way I learned in the session completely reworked everything and I felt uncomfortable doing it. Kind of like when shotgun shooting, realizing your dominant eye is different than your dominant hand, and the best thing to do is switch hands even though it takes you completely out of your comfort zone.

I've shot traditional on and off for 4 or 5 years, my goal is to make it my hunting weapon a majority of the time. Coming from a compound background, my confidence in my ability is my biggest hindrance. I have so many safety blankets on my compound that I can't help but make a good shot most of the time. I know that if the string hits the backwall, the peep is lined up and my pin is on the target that I will hit it as long as I execute the shot. I want that same confidence with my recurve. I have weeks on end where I shoot wonderfully, then a slump will hit where I throw an inordinate amount of flyers to where I shelve the recurve and pick up my compound.

My last question is would you guys recommend seeking training from perhaps someone else, someone who is more familiar with the hunting side of barebow shooting, or try to work these things on my own trying to adapt some of the techniques from guys much better than I am?
 
#19 ·
I have spent a lot of time researching and improving my archery skills by shooting FITA style archery. Curling your wrist violates the whole concept of a Biometric Efficient Shooting Technique. Scrap that and be gracious in dumping in that coach.
The OLY techniques that will improve your shooting are back tension and learning how to push with the bow arm and pull with back tension. No need to scrap or change your anchor as long as that rear sight alignment puts you over the arrow and is consistent. You should notice that those really solid shots occur when your aligned and aiming (your way). A continuous expansion, pushing the bow arm forward and pulling the scapula toward the spine with the middle trapezius takes time to learn and is in my opinion worth the effort. Study the anterior and posterior views of the muscle skeletal systems of the human anatomy. Pay particular attention to your follow through.
 
#21 ·
I'd run away from anyone telling me to walk the string for bow hunting. Walking the string is great for shooting groups at known distances being slow and meticulous but shooting any method besides walking the string is going to be much faster hunting or target shooting.

Go watch a clip of someone string walking, by the time they are done taking one shot including counting their strands most instinctive or GAP shooters could of got off three.
 
#22 ·
Incorrect.

Go do some research on how to use a fixed crawl. (A type of 'semi permanent' string walking) Then go watch 'The Push' posted on YouTube by Matt Zirnsak of TradTips.

It is just as fast, if not faster than 'instinctive' or gap, and puts the arrow point-on either dead on target, or in very close proximity to the intended impact point at normal hunting distances.

Cheers,
E.
 
#32 ·
We also need to remember that there are lots of differences in 'barebow' form and 'hunting' form. I shoot my barebow completly differently than my hunting bow.
 
#35 ·
You guys need to lay off arguing the JamesThom. You may not realize it, but he's one of the best barebow shooters on the planet (shooting instinctive, no less), so he has plenty of experience on everything he talks about. How do I know? Well... in his own words.....

"...For me personally my accuracy starts to drop off around 35 yards shooting split finger instinctive. Within 35 yards I'm shooting 4 to 5" groups on average..."
 
#38 ·
Yeah, me too. What is that on an NFAA blue face; average about 270 at 35 yards? Heck, I'd like to do that at 15 yards. Yepper, he's the best barebow shot on the planet, I tell you!

These naysayers need to get off his back. We're most privileged to have someone of his ability spending his valuable time and expertise with us.
 
#42 ·
James/Ben whoever you are, you offered nothing constructive to help the OP in this thread, you see SW mentioned and took the opportunity to trash talk and disrupt a thread by spreading misinformation. This NOT what this site is about.

I've put James Thorn on my ignore list as I have already done on Ben Pearson name, you must be a really sad and lonely person to pull this kind of crap.

reported to Admin as well.
 
#43 ·
Guys -

If we can get back to the original question for a moment...

Olympic shooting, IMHO, is the simplest type of shooting there is. IOWs, it's about as basic as you can get. You put the thing on the thing (sight on the target) and execute the shoot. That's all there is to it, but therein lies the rub. Because it's so basic , the demands on accuracy and consistency are at their greatest. Shooting consistent 3" group at 20 yards for 12" groups at 70m doesn't allow much room for error.

Most "bow hunters", particularly the trad guys could only benefit by spending some time with a GOOD Olympic coach. That's because that were the fundamentals are learned on honed. After that, the modifications can be made to fit different (hunting) situations. It really is working from the ground up.

Viper1 out.
 
#44 ·
There is no substitute for intense detailed self based learning. In my experience with coach(s). One has to ask themselves which gives the best value. Spending several hundred dollars or using the time it took you to generate those $100 bills in self study and empirical investigation. If you have not equipped yourself with a firm foundation and understanding on what how things work and your goals relative to that knowledge don't expect another individual to fill that void.