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So if you got permission to hunt a suburb area which broad head would you use? I'm thinking grim reapers, slick trick raptor tricks, Jak knifes, rage extreme 2.5" two blade. I know shot placement is #1 but I just wanted to throw this out there because I want quick kills. All opinions are welcome but let's try to keep this legit and not get carried away for some of you fan boys out there. Thanks for your "OPINIONS"
 

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I know this is just my opinion, I have always had luck with old school original Rage (the knock off ones off of ebay of course), and have been able to watch all my deer go down within 50 yards. Any of those broadheads will bee good and do the trick, as you said though, shot placement is key to having them go down quick. Practice and make sure your shooting lanes are clear of any twigs that might deflect an arrow. Good luck!
 

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I did a lot of population control shooting with a bow in the suburbs from '98-'05. I was shooting dozens (plural) of deer in a single season every season. This was in subdivision suburbia with relatively small lots where hunting was by invitation only and there where plenty of neighbors who didn't want you there killing deer. You had to get trespass permission forms signed by all neighbors even the anti hunting resident neighbors to retrieve a deer if it ran onto their property. I shot deer with fixed blades like Wasp, Thunderhead, Muzzy, Rocky Mnt. 75% of the time. The mechanicals I tried were Wasp Jak Hammer, Rocket hammerhead, Sidewinder, and Steelhead. In all that shooting I can only recall 5 deer that went 100 yards and none over that. Almost every doe I shot was down in 40-50 yards. I think this was due to two things: 1) the deer were calmer because they had never experienced hunting pressure 2) 20 yard and under shooting on deer offering perfect broadside/quartering away presentation. I did shoot a P&Y size buck with a Rocky Mnt. Ironhead that made it 100 yards and ran out into the browned out fairway of a golf course. He left a car hood sized blood stain in that dry grass where he circled before going down.
 

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I sure would not want a deer running around the sub division with an arrow in it.
Make sure you get a pass through!
 

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lol How many pounds it your bow? And what bow? And---practice--Ihad to learn to drop then within 20 yds or no recovery with my pathetic specs is can be done--PS on "wired to hunt" podcast interview w tracker w dog, he said better than 85% of recovery calls were shot w a rage?? Just sayin--
 

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I don't understand why you'd need to change broadheads to hunt somewhere different. Isn't the goal every time to drop the animal as quickly as possible? I believe you should be more concerned with spot placement.
 

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i posed this same question earlier this season. lotta jackwagon answers. with that said i ended up shooting 3 city deer. 1 killzone, one rage extreme and one muzzy trocar. they all went down hard and fast within my tiny wooded area. furthest shot was 18yds, closest was 4yds if i recall correctly. i used different heads because i was testing stuff.

if i had to suggest things for urban hunting, it would be to take close shots where you can drill your point of aim and shoot at unalert deer. punch both lungs, no silly head/neck shots.

depending on where you hunt, that can change things also. i hunt a tiny church owned parcel adjacent to school property. the soccer fields are within 45yds of my stand, so im careful not to shoot that direction or at a deer facing that direction. i also limit my shots to when practice is over and kids are gone and before it gets too dark. i dont want to draw attention to me with a flashlight. my hunting agreement says i am to take the entrails with me, but thats just good practice for urban hunts anyway.

someone mentioned pass throughs are important in city hunts because you dont want an arrow stuck in an animal running around. i agree.

i would suggest you use a good fixed head and let it rip. i used a couple mechanicals this last year and they worked really well, but im shooting 29/70 with a 475gr arrow at shots under 20yds. i have the horsepower. next year ill probably stick with my mess of fixed heads.
 

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I am hunting that situation with a crossbow. Perfect setup to shoot either dead on facing me or broadside. Quartering away shots are only rarely a possibility.

First year with 2 inch Rages I had runs of 6 feet, 100 yards, 50-60 yards and just over 200 yards. Those were three shots through the heart and the last one was just above the heart severing it loose from the lungs and almost completely loose in the chest. The next year One with a 3 blade Muzzy went 60 yards, One with a Rage went 60-80, Two with a Nap Spitfire Doublecross, both went about 40 yards.

This year I shot one NAP Spitfire Doublecross (double lung close behing the shoulder) and lost it. Another (double lung but well back, just a couple inches ahead of the diaphragm) with the same head managed to get almost a mile in a straight line.

I don't see enough predictability with what happens after the shot to say one head is better or worse.

Fortunately these are my neighbors and they've had their fill of everything being eaten and hitting them with cars so even those who'd rather I didn't shoot them will let me recover them without complaint. If I had to do this where I didn't know the people, I wouldn't. Out of those deer I have had five cross portions of mowed lawns. Fortunately no one saw them do it.

The last numbers I saw for Minnesota were something like 31 per cent loss rate over all for archery. Judging from the skepticism on here when I said that upuntil this year I'd never lost a deer, that may be a good number. That being the case even the hot rods that think they can out shoot anyone are losing a fair number of deer. My experience is that I would have to expect losses if I could not secure permission to recover one even if I could see it. We have a group here that provides bow hunters to metro locations that hold special seasons to deal with the over population. We have an area of more than 500 square miles with a population so high that there is no limit on antlerless deer. A lot of that isn't dense residential, but a lot of it is quite so. I went through the process to be part of that but decided against it because of that unpredictability factor.
 

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Go to Cabelas, they have a whole “subdivision” section of broadheads ......smh
 

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Get written permission,keep broadheads sharp, aim true and hunt only on weekday evenings so making recovery in dark a little more discrete. You can control where you
shoot them but not where they die.
 

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The blades you use to hunt with need to be their best regardless the situation. Have a property of 19 acres that I hunted for ten years. It had tree hugging deer feeders on 3 sides of the property. I have taken over 25 deer off it including 2 P&Y without the neighbors even having a clue what happened. Take 20 yard shots or less on broadside on quartering away shots only. Used Grim Reaper 1 3/8" Razor Tips on all of them. None went further than 50 yards. Other broadheads may work well but I know the Grim Reaper Razor Tip works for me.:wink:
 

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I highly recommend the new Rage 3 blade, shot 2 deer with them this year and neither deer went more than 40 yards.
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Shot placement like you said is the most important thing. I hunt very small lots. Use G5 strikers, Quad Exodus, Slick Tricks all have worked for me. Myself I don’t want any chances of a malfunction or hitting a shoulder and not getting a pass thru or enough penetration. I would use a fixed blade setup, 4 blade Slick Trick for ex.
 

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All I hunt is suburban Deer. BH means nothing as long as it is a reputable head. It’s all about taking only perfect shots at calm Deer and good shot placement. No room for the “I shot a little Back”.
 

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Using a fixed blade seldom if ever makes up for a bad shot. Small fixed blades fly better than the large fixed blades, especially in windy conditions. But small fixed blades make smaller holes. And I have, over the years, actually found more deer with fixed blade broadheads in them, than expandables. That could possibly be because expandable broadheads can fold back up and fall out easier.:dontknow: If both a fixed and mechanical get a total pass through in the same spot, which will make a bigger hole causing more damage?
 

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So if you got permission to hunt a suburb area which broad head would you use? I'm thinking grim reapers, slick trick raptor tricks, Jak knifes, rage extreme 2.5" two blade. I know shot placement is #1 but I just wanted to throw this out there because I want quick kills. All opinions are welcome but let's try to keep this legit and not get carried away for some of you fan boys out there. Thanks for your "OPINIONS"
Years back I had set up a urban hunt in a neighboring town after many town hall meetings, discussions and threats from activists.... for my self, I wanted the largest cutting, strongest accurate head I could get at the time, then I went with the Rocket Sidewinder/100gr/1.5" cut... it worked fantastic... all deer killed never made it over 50 yds.... I needed the deer to go down quickly... I also had several others in the hunts using these heads.... they all praised them .... anyways, the moral to the story is use the largest cutting diameter head you can that will give optimal penetration and accuracy, and keep shots close
 
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