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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've never paper tuned before but I've seen it done and shot through paper checking for excessive tears. Just wanted to check to make sure this looks good to everyone else. Looks good to me but I'm no expert.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
that looks good,now shoot a bareshaft thru that paper and if that looks good your set
Gonna have to strip fletchings off one of my new arrows...
 

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Your hole looks good, but also shoot a bareshaft thru paper. It will give you a better idea of your flight.
Just like String Bender stated - fletched hole looks solid, but what's the bare shaft say. This year my fletched paper looked pretty good, but bare shaft was just a touch elongated horizontal - look like nock left. I went right to broadheads - they were hitting right of field points, made a minor rest adjustment and got them tuned with FPs.

For :poop: and giggles and probably cause I was bored one day I shot through paper again and fletch still looked solid, but the bareshaft was much better.
 
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Fletched arrow through paper only tells you that your fletching can do its job. As stated shoot a bullet hole with a bare shaft and then start tuning your bow by shooting the same bare shaft and 2 fletched arrows at 20 yards. Get all three in a tight group and bare shaft hitting at the same angle as fletched arrows then your getting really close!
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Or if you have a place to do it shoot bare shaft through paper at 20 yards I like that method best...saves arrows
 

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Mathews TRX 34, Athens Vista 31
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I quit shooting through paper all together. For me it seems a waste of time.

Example: you put whatever time it took you to get a fletched arrow to make a bullet hole.

What have you learned? You learned that fletching can correct errors in arrow flight.

For me, I shoot a bare shaft and a fletched arrow at a foam, stable, target. Indoors preferably. When they both impact in the same place AND are parallel at 20 yards, I consider the bow tuned.

If it is a hunting bow, any quality broad head will hit with field points after this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm not sure how to tell which way to go. I've got a slight tear in each direction with a bare shaft.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There is the latest after moving the rest down and to the left a little

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think that's going to be close enough. Im going to the range on Tuesday and I'm going to see how it looks at 20 yards shooting bare shaft and fletched. I'm guessing i have a little up down adjustment still but probably extremely minor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I quit shooting through paper all together. For me it seems a waste of time.

Example: you put whatever time it took you to get a fletched arrow to make a bullet hole.

What have you learned? You learned that fletching can correct errors in arrow flight.

For me, I shoot a bare shaft and a fletched arrow at a foam, stable, target. Indoors preferably. When they both impact in the same place AND are parallel at 20 yards, I consider the bow tuned.

If it is a hunting bow, any quality broad head will hit with field points after this.
I'll be doing that next. No harm getting it close using paper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Is there a guide regarding adjusting the bow depending on where the field points hit vs a bare shaft?
 

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It's really the same movements to tune a bare shaft. Depends on the bow, some have yokes, etc., others move the shims, etc. I prefer to keep the rest square and adjust the cams and tiller for fine tune. I don't move the rest, keep an arrow parallel with an arrow up against the riser and move cans/yokes. Key is to get the BS and the fletched parallel.
 
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