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Discussion Starter #1
I have been using On Target 2 for a couple years now and the more I use it, the more impressed I have become. I was having some problems with my bow. For some reason I had dropped 30fps and couldn't understand why. I had switched to some different arrows, but I couldn't believe that these arrows could scrub off that much speed. I had been getting 309fps at 53#, but dropped to 273fps. Yesterday I plugged in all my specs and OT2 told me, that with the new arrows, I should be shooting 273fps. I plugged in my old arrows and OT2 said they should let me shoot 307fps. I put my new arrows on my grain scale and the weighed out at 362 grains. OT2 said they should weigh out at 359 grains. (Perfect)

The program is great for finding the correct length, point weight and spine for your arrows. Rather than guess, and still come up with the wrong arrows, OT2 will help you find the perfect length and spine for your arrows and it will give you the FOC for the arrows you are considering. Build your arrows before you purchase them and then purchase just what your bow needs.

I made a couple sight tapes that were spot-on for my HHA sight.

I have found that OT2 can be trusted. If you go to the Pinwheel web page you can purchase OT2 for under $30. It's money well-spent if you are serious about matching your equipment with your bow.

Automan
 

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Anti Fanboy
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Thats great! I'm seriously considering getting OT2. Between you and another friend, and with you alls OT2, I was able to get the correct arrow for my two bows.

I was surprised at how much correct info it put out that has proven to be dang near spot on.
 

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I am a fan of it....but still learning, seems I learn a little every time I sit down with it.
 

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I use TAP myself...but a few friends use OT2. I usually compare between the two of them to if I am on the right track.
 

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We had used Easton's arrow flight simulator years back and it was good (slow but good) but nowhere near as good as OT2.
It saves so much time when figureing arrows that I believe I'd be lost without it now.
 

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When putting in the arrow length, is that carbon to carbon length?
 

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If you take the time to calibrate it to your bow, it is incredibly accurate.
 

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Shaaaaazam!!
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The only issue I had was I change an tinker with computers alot.An mess some of them up..lol.So i am constantly using difference stuff..This doesnt work well with OT2..I bought the program back in 08 I think ..An it seemed like I was a bother every time I would Email Larry about trying switch my account to another computer.I dont even have it now cause I FELT I was getting a run around an being asked to pay more money for a program I had all ready paid full price for..
 

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decided to get it this summer and it is awesome! so glad i spent the money
 

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The only issue I had was I change an tinker with computers alot.An mess some of them up..lol.So i am constantly using difference stuff..This doesnt work well with OT2..I bought the program back in 08 I think ..An it seemed like I was a bother every time I would Email Larry about trying switch my account to another computer.I dont even have it now cause I FELT I was getting a run around an being asked to pay more money for a program I had all ready paid full price for..
So it has to be linked to a particular computer not a program with a password?

Doug
 

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You will save more than the price of the program by getting the correct arrows for your setup the very first time.
 

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Maybe larry could explain it better..I know it was a HUGE hassle with constant Emails back in forth every time my computer had a issue or I switched computers etc..I think once you Download an buy.,.You have a product Key an a Registration key..An they have to match..So if you reformat your computer or get a new or diff one or switch for some reason..You have to Download it again an it will have a diff product key..Which Larry has to give you the Reg key for in order to work..He didnt seem to like the fact that I was dumping one set up an going to another..Its a great product an Larry seemed like a OK guy..But Switching computers or reformatting or anything related seemed larry made it sounds like it was my fault an I was trying to pull a fast one..I dont need it that bad...OT2 is a decent program overall though>.The 1st time i had a problem I knew nothing of computers figured I better learn my way around them after that
 

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To clarify...

Downloads are a single system, single user license. The licensed computer is the one on which the purchase takes place.

When you download the software on a computer it will generate a signature that is unique. If the system configuration and hardware remains the same, the signature does not change. There are hardware and software changes that have no effect on the signature.

If you have system issues and need a new registration code and the signature does not change, I always help you get back up and running.

Occasionally, someone requests a registration code for a different signature and I ask questions to help determine why there was a change. With very few exceptions, a signature change is an indication of a "new" computer. Usually, if the signature changes without a reasonable explaination, there is a $5 "transfer fee".
 

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Discussion Starter #17
someone tell me how to calibrate your bow?
My idea of calabrating your bow would mean to make sure that the info you are entering into OT2 is an accurate reflection of the actual performance of the bow. This would mean determining the exact draw weight and length of the bow and an accurate representation of all the equipment you have on your string--silencers, peep, etc. The same goes for the arrows; you need to enter the exact length of the arrow, point weight, nock, insert, etc. Once everything is entered CORRECTLY OT2 will spit out good reliable specs that you can trust. You also have the option to enter custom info as well. If you have found some trick to sneak a bit more speed out of the bow than the specs indicate, there is a place to enter your actual speed and not be slaved to what the program says you should have. If your ATA or BH is not to spec, you can enter this info as well. You have all the options you need to enter your EXACT bow into the program.

The program is so accurate that it makes a reliable sight tape for your individual sight. Today I will be going to a 3D shoot and if the target is 47.5 yards away, I can set my HHA slider sight for 47.5 and I know I am right on.

As they say, "Garbage in, Garbage out." If you put in good information, you will get accurate information out of the program.

Automan
 

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Once everything is entered CORRECTLY OT2 will spit out good reliable specs that you can trust.

The program is so accurate that it makes a reliable sight tape for your individual sight. Today I will be going to a 3D shoot and if the target is 47.5 yards away, I can set my HHA slider sight for 47.5 and I know I am right on.

As they say, "Garbage in, Garbage out." If you put in good information, you will get accurate information out of the program.

Automan

Thats exactly what my buddy said. I gave him all my stats and he plugged it into his OT2 and the information he gave me was so spot on its unreal. And I mean everything. :thumbs_up
 

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"country"
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My idea of calabrating your bow would mean to make sure that the info you are entering into OT2 is an accurate reflection of the actual performance of the bow. This would mean determining the exact draw weight and length of the bow and an accurate representation of all the equipment you have on your string--silencers, peep, etc. The same goes for the arrows; you need to enter the exact length of the arrow, point weight, nock, insert, etc. Once everything is entered CORRECTLY OT2 will spit out good reliable specs that you can trust. You also have the option to enter custom info as well. If you have found some trick to sneak a bit more speed out of the bow than the specs indicate, there is a place to enter your actual speed and not be slaved to what the program says you should have. If your ATA or BH is not to spec, you can enter this info as well. You have all the options you need to enter your EXACT bow into the program.

The program is so accurate that it makes a reliable sight tape for your individual sight. Today I will be going to a 3D shoot and if the target is 47.5 yards away, I can set my HHA slider sight for 47.5 and I know I am right on.

As they say, "Garbage in, Garbage out." If you put in good information, you will get accurate information out of the program.

Automan
I have it, its not bullet proof, there is a way to calibrate, anyone know how
 

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I have it, its not bullet proof, there is a way to calibrate, anyone know how
Here are the steps to calibrating the bow:

1. Measure exact draw length, do not go off what the module says(example - my 2009 PSE Xforce GX has a 27" module and the string is on the "-" post, going by the module draw length should be 26 5/8", actual measured draw length is 27 1/2"(which is my correct draw length))
2. Measure exact draw weight(a 60# bow maxed out may be as high as 65#)
3. Accurately weigh your arrows
4. Measure the peep height and distance to the pins(this will calibrate the pins to your setup)
5. Sight in the 20 yard pin and shoot a group, then step back to 30 yards and shoot a group using the 20 yard pin, measure the distance between the two groups(this will be your arrow drop). TIP - use a caliper to measure as you will need to be as accurate as possible. TIP2: Shoot more than one group at both yardages and take the average of the groups to increase accuracy.
6. Sight in the 30 yard and 50 yard pins, this will give you your pin gap reading to use in the calibration.
7. Shoot two different weight arrows through the chrono, this will give you your arrow weight efficiency for the calibration page. TIP: Shoot arrows at least 100 grains different in weight to increase the accuracy.
8. Shoot the heavier arrow(this may be the arrow you are going to shoot) at two different draw weights(min and max weight of the bow - 60#/50# or 70#/60#, etc), this will give you draw weight efficiency
9. Shoot the heavier arrow(see #8) at two different draw lengths through the chrono(if possible, if you have draw specific modules, I have a solution to this I will give later), this will be your draw length efficiency. TIP: shoot draw lengths at least 1" apart(27" and 28", etc)
10. Set your altitude and latitude on the program. Altitude does have a marked effect on how a bow shoots, just as it does for a firearm)

Enter all this information into the appropriate space on the calibration page and 9 times out of 10 you will be within .4 of your actual chrono'd readings and the sight template(movable or fixed) will be spot on everytime.

As mentioned earlier, for those with draw specific modules, request my excell spreadsheet for calculating setup based on IBO rated speed of the bow. Using this information you can change draw lengths by 1" and it will calculate to within .4 fps of your bow. Requstes can be sent to [email protected]
 
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