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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone who is familiar with the Nuclear Ice, if you would please chime in and help me get the setup right, I'd be extremely appreciative of your assistance. I originally posted this in the "Bow Tuning" subforum but I need alot more feedback than I am getting there and want to hear from as many owners and those who have experience with, this bow.

First off, the bow came from Sportsmans Warehouse with cams leaning and out of time. (draw stops were so bad that the bottom one barely made contact, even after the top one was seriously bending the cable)
So, I fixed the lean and timing. This is when I got stupid and after looking at how high the nock point was I moved it inline with the rest and berger hole. I shot it several times and cannot get the point of impact to get anywhere near the point of aim, it is hitting very high, like 1-2 foot high at 10 feet out.

I am coming to think that the nock point should be higher but I could not understand why the bow should be leaning back way past vertical when shooting and that is what it does when the nock point is 65+ percent up the string.

So, my questions are these to anyone who owns or is familiar with setup on this Nuclear Ice:
1. How high and where exactly is your nock point? Can you give me a measurement?
2. How big is your D-loop (if you have one) and do you still have the factory brass nock
installed? EXAMPLE: Mine is just big enough to fit the arrow nock between the top and
bottom of the loop, so like a 1/4 inch and I have removed the factory brass nock.
2a. If you are using a release on the string, (no D-loop) will you please explain the position of release in relation to arrow nock and factory brass nock if it
still there.
3. Is your arrow level with the rest when the bow is dead vertical in the vise? If not
then at what angle is the arrow at? Exactly high or low is the nock of the arrow, 1/8in,
1/2in, 2in?
4. Is your arrow crossing the berger hole at all? Is it at an angle crossing the berger
hole? Is your rest or nock point or both level with the berger hole? (hole in the riser
that your rest bolts to)
5. When the bow is vertical, is your rest housing on the same vertical plane as the riser,
or is the rest housing angled down or up?
6. Have you tried/thought of putting the rest in FRONT of the riser to better support
the arrow? What are your opinions on doing this?
7. Should the draw wieght and length matter for these questions or should it shoot the
same at different DW and DL with the same nock point and rest position?
8. Lastly, is it hitting where you are aiming consistently?

Here are the current specs and what I've done to date, these specs are while looking at the bow from behind.
It is a lefty bow. I twisted the left side yoke cable to get the lean out on both the bottom and top cam cables. After just measuring it looks like I have a little lean still: the right side is 22 1/8in ATA, the left side is 22 3/16in ATA. So it is still favoring the cable guard slightly.
To fix the timing, I twisted the bottom cam cable (attached to side of the bottom cam) 2 1/2 times to bring the bottom cam drawstop in contact at the same time as the top.
Draw wieght was at min., like 9lbs and draw length was 18 1/2ish. It shot high then so I reset it to near 22in DL and near 19lbs DW so I could shoot it (I needed it to fit me better to have some consistency, elsewise I was torquing the string off center) and see if I could tune it to shoot better.
BH from the flat portion of the riser just above the grip on the back of the arrow shelf is 5 1/4in. From the deepest part of the grip, the BH is 5 3/4in. I did not measure ATA nor BH at the lower DW/DL settings.

Thanks everyone in advance, all input is extremely appreciated. I looked at my
friend's daughter's nuclear ice last nite and her nock point was very high and her arrow was at an extreme downward angle while the bow was vertical, he swore it levels out when drawn but it did not look like it to me.
I am looking forward to learning from this discussion, thanks again.
 

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All I can say is that the Nuke Ice is one of the screwy'ist youth bows ever built(bad reviews too) .... What the heck Bowtech/Diamand was thinking is beyond me.....just setting draw length and the poundage is a task in patience..... is both top and bottom cams set the Exact same....you have to go to position "B" for the shortest draw lengths and be sure both modules are set in the same spot.....
 

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^^^ What he said. What position is the cable at the cam posts (by DL module)? There is a B side, and an A side. I don't have a bow in front of me to see which is which, but this needs to coordinate with the same marked post for the string. I think the B side is inbetween the DL module, and the post. You will need to get all the lean out of the cams, you can untwist the one side a 1/2 turn at a time. with in a few 1/2 turns, you should be there. Then check the timing again. I have both my kids NIs arrows set at the center of the berger hole, and the nock square to that. Now issues with POI. One shoots a release, the other shoots fingers. The nocking point is the nocking point, regardless of how it is being shot. It is hard for an adult to shoot these, as the DLs are so short.
And yes, it is a nice little bow, but these things should be set to go from the factory, regardless of the cost. I have set up three of these, two RHs, and one Left, and the cam lean is terrible out of the box. Other than the cam lean, it is not hard to set up. Hope this helps.
 

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I just got my daughter one of these bows for her birthday last week. The top cam was ok, but the bottom cam was leaning very bad. It took 2 full twist to strighten it up. I took the hostage rest off and put a WB on my daughters. I am just making adjustments based on her shooting. We are starting to get it dialed in. I tried to shoot it and get her sight set, but I can't get my head down enough to see threw the peep. We are using the factory installed nock. I tied a D loop on and it seems to be shooting fine. Like the guys above said make sure everything is correct with A and B posts and the draw lenght is the same on both cams. Other than that I'm not sure what to tell you, we have not had any problems with ours. Good luck. Hope this helps a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, Thanks for the help so far. I do have the cams timed (both top and bottom on the same setting, though I have switched them back and forth a few times already) and no longer leaning.
That being said, I guess what I am focusing on now is:
1. nock position
2. rest position
3. how both ^ of those correspond to the berger hole
4. and if your arrow is square (90 dgrees) to the string

Jack, sounds like you answered the above questions/topics when you said, "I have both my kids NIs arrows set at the center of the berger hole, and the nock square to that." I take that to mean they are setup just as you would our adult bows, with the arrow and rest level with the berger hole when the bow is dead vertical (string is perfectly straight, up/down and left/right, such as in a bow vise). You mean the center of the arrow is on level with the center of the berger hole when viewed from the side, in other words the arrow top nor bottom are cutting across the hole.
Jack, Am I understanding you correctly?

Matt, my factory nock was removed at purchase, is your daughter's bow setup with the rest and arrow level with the berger hole and square to the string, as Jack's seems to be?

Jack, are you using the hostage rest?

Matt and jack, are you using the supplied (came with) arrows? Are they cut down or still at original length?
 

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I didn't see where you said but did you try adjusting the sight after changing everything? I am assuming that you did but sometimes we forget the basics when we get frustrated.
 

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Yes my daughters is level with berger hole and square to string. I actually just had some of my old arrows cut and 85gr. field points put on them. I may have to make some changes to her bow as she starts to get a little more consistant with shooting it. She is starting to get the hang of it and group arrows a little better. I am not going to make any changes to her bow untill she starts hitting consistantly. It will come with time. Considering last week was the first time she has ever drawn a bow I think she is doing great.
 

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Yes, the center of the arrow is center of the berger hole same as an adult bow. Yes, still using the hostage rest (easy for the kids to use). And yes and no about the stock arrows. My son burned thru his stock arrows pretty quickly (one left, rest in the feild behind the house somewhere). My daughter still has the stock arrows. I had bought my son some Beman ICS Juniors, cut to the same length as the stock arrows. I cut them to the stock length since he is still growing, (and fast) and don't want to waste money on arrows every six months. I see no difference in flight between the stocks and Bemans. Not at the weights he is shooting anyway, and he can flat out shoot now. Hope this helps. Oh, one other thing, I took the sight, and flipped the bracket to get a little more clearance between the arrow and site housing. I adjusted the sight pins down a little also so to raise the sight housing. With everything set up this way, my son is shooting about 4-5" groups at 20 yards.
 

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All I can say is that the Nuke Ice is one of the screwy'ist youth bows ever built(bad reviews too) .... What the heck Bowtech/Diamand was thinking is beyond me.....just setting draw length and the poundage is a task in patience..... is both top and bottom cams set the Exact same....you have to go to position "B" for the shortest draw lengths and be sure both modules are set in the same spot.....
wow...

Love the one we picked up for my son here. He shoots the heck outta that damn thing, I did have to play with the cam lean, adjusting the draw is not all that confusing IMO.
 

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wow...

Love the one we picked up for my son here. He shoots the heck outta that damn thing, I did have to play with the cam lean, adjusting the draw is not all that confusing IMO.
I am with ya. Great bows IMO. Cam lean is a little dis-heartening when you pull it out of the box, but its not like you need a press to fix it. All in all, great bow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I didn't see where you said but did you try adjusting the sight after changing everything? I am assuming that you did but sometimes we forget the basics when we get frustrated.
Oops, should have mentioned that. Yes, I adjusted the sight but could not get the point of impact low enough to use the pins. In other words, it is shooting too high. With the help I am getting here, I hope to have it shooting better by day's end.
 

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Sounds like the nock/D-Loop is too low. Check to see if the nock/D-Loop position is squared up.

The bow flat out shoots with the right setup and the right arrows.. One 7 year old Junior Olympic female shooter came within 20 points of the BOYS state outdoor record with a Nuclear Ice (and was just off a couple of points in the girl's state record).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Man, I can't thank you guys enough!
I at least now I know that is possible to set it up level and get the desired results. That in itself is a HUGE help!
I have been feeling more than a little dismayed spending $260 (arrows and acc. included) and not being able to consistently group within 1.5 feet at 10 yards. That is just terible IMO.:cry:

Another thing I just thought of: Have any of you experimented with the rest being IN FRONT of the arrow shelf? I tried it out and it does not seem to be a hindrance nor affecting the arrows path. I figured that the arrow might be needing a little more support considering my daughter is only drawing around 18in and SO MUCH arrow is hanging off the front, even at full draw. Thoughts on this?
 

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Not sure, never put the rest that way. I don't see what it would hurt. You are right though, at that DL, the arrow is out quite a bit.
 

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Oops, should have mentioned that. Yes, I adjusted the sight but could not get the point of impact low enough to use the pins. In other words, it is shooting too high. With the help I am getting here, I hope to have it shooting better by day's end.
My sons bow was the same way. I let him shoot my 28" maxima 250's. At first I thought they would be to heavy, but it shoots flat to 10 yards. so we set his pins 10, 15 and 20. I did have a hard time setting the center shot but it is on now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think I finally understand the phrase "Back to the drawing board." I had no idea it could have such a literal meaning.:wink:

Superdean, the arrow tip must be in the other room than the bow, shooting those 28"s!
 

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Set up the bow with some cut down Easton Jazz arrows and the bow will just flat out haul.

I realize that many people will just cut down arrows and hand them down, but with very low poundage/low draw weight bows, you really need to get ones that are spined properly.
 

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Set up the bow with some cut down Easton Jazz arrows and the bow will just flat out haul.

I realize that many people will just cut down arrows and hand them down, but with very low poundage/low draw weight bows, you really need to get ones that are spined properly.
 

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I think I finally understand the phrase "Back to the drawing board." I had no idea it could have such a literal meaning.:wink:

Superdean, the arrow tip must be in the other room than the bow, shooting those 28"s!

They are pretty long, but doesnt seem to bother his shooting. He has won almost every 3D shot I've taken him to. He doesnt know about spine and foc, and all that crap. He just shots whatever daddy gives him.
 

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Set up the bow with some cut down Easton Jazz arrows and the bow will just flat out haul.

I realize that many people will just cut down arrows and hand them down, but with very low poundage/low draw weight bows, you really need to get ones that are spined properly.
we did the Jazz arrows here too. I was squirming at them, thinking they were doomed right outta the gate, and after spending a few minutes on proper arrow removal we still have them all...
 
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