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Portuguese Lover
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Paper tuned my bow today a 2006 Bowtech Ally with a 28inch arrow (maxima 350). I had got a 1 inch right tear. I ended up moving the rest, a trophy taker as far left as possible and getting bullet wholes.. but seems wierd, its some what centered on the shelf but eyeballing it, it looks slightly to much to the left. I shot out to 30 yards today and they look like there flying straight .. last time I paper tuned it, same set up, the rest wasnt nearly as much left as it is now.
Could this be beacuse of cam lean or string stretch or something along those llines.

Thanks Mario
 

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Portuguese Lover
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Discussion Starter #2
up.
 

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i spent endless hours trying to make sense of similar situations and came to the conclusion that paper tuning is no good...
 

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I have a 2006 ALLY and the only way to tune is barshaft. Mine is ABSOLUTELY tuned and AWESOME! this is Bowtechs MQ1 as far as I am concerned.
 

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You cam may be out of time. The only time I couldn't get a perfect hole out of my Ross, with fletch and bare shaft was when my cam was about 1/4" out of rotation. I then had a 1/2" left tear.

I think that is likely your problem. You can get OK results walk-back and broadhead tuning a bow that is out of time- it won't be great but most will say its acceptable. You usually can't get that bow to fire a perfect paper-tune hole. That for me is the value of paper tuning.

After I paper tune I do group tuning firing at 4 yards and 40 yards. This shows me my left to right adjustments and once that is on I usually only have to do a 1/64" or 1/32" at most adjustment to get really good broadhead to field point results.

Have someone check the timing on your cam. Get it set right and then mark your cam with a sharpie marker where it intersects the back of the lower limb. Then you have a reference for the future.
 

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I am assuming that the maximas are fletched with blazer vanes....

and you have the cable slide that came on the bow from the factory...

You are most likely having a clearance issue between the blazers and the cables.
 

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I have found out that when paper tuning a lot of your where your center shot lands is related to where your arrow bisects the berger hole. On my hoyt am 35 if my the center of my arrow is in the center of the berger hole my centershot would be around 7/8" to 3/4" of a inch. With the bottom of the arrow lined up with the middle of the berger hole my centershot tuned in at 5/8" of a inch. With my hoyt the higher the arrow was on the berger hole the closer to the riser my centershot was, with the arrow lower on the berger hole, the arrow tuned more away from the riser. On my bowtech guardian it was the opposite, the higher I went with the arrrow and nock point, the arrow tuned more away from the riser. Each bow is different in this regard I believe.
 

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I have found out that when paper tuning a lot of your where your center shot lands is related to where your arrow bisects the berger hole. On my hoyt am 35 if my the center of my arrow is in the center of the berger hole my centershot would be around 7/8" to 3/4" of a inch. With the bottom of the arrow lined up with the middle of the berger hole my centershot tuned in at 5/8" of a inch. With my hoyt the higher the arrow was on the berger hole the closer to the riser my centershot was, with the arrow lower on the berger hole, the arrow tuned more away from the riser. On my bowtech guardian it was the opposite, the higher I went with the arrrow and nock point, the arrow tuned more away from the riser. Each bow is different in this regard I believe.
And this a function of cam lean, or actually limb twist. ;)

I think that paper tuning is a great tool because it can make these things apparent, while other methods don't at all....except maybe bareshaft.

The more the limbs are twisted the more it effects where the center ends up. The only way to get centershot in the dead center is with zero limb twist and very accurately built riser, pockets, limbs and cams.

I prefer a bow that tunes close to center, or is at least able to be made to shoot down the center. It means that there is less lateral nock travel during the powerstroke and has to make a bow easier to tune, not to mention being able to tune well with a broader range of arrow spines.
 

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measure from the riser to the center of your arrow,11/16th is prolly about center for allegiance,or put an arrow on the rest then take another arrow and press it against the riser and see if they run paralell to one another.you will have some degree of lean with that bow no matter what.
 

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I have a 2006 ALLY and the only way to tune is barshaft. Mine is ABSOLUTELY tuned and AWESOME! this is Bowtechs MQ1 as far as I am concerned.
I just switched to bare shaft tuning as well. How does your ally tune through paper after bare shaft tuning? Just curious.
 

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had an 06 old glory that tuned left of center too, shot awesome that way
 

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Portuguese Lover
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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the help guys.

I did shoot out to 60 yards today.. there where flying like darts and shot the best groups I ever shot. Its shooting good, and hunting season already started so Im not gonna mess with anymore.

Plus I just got my new Elite GT500 today..I wanna start playing with that.:tongue::tongue::tongue:

Thanks again
 
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