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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, fairly new to bows and have been shooting for the last 6 months. Last night I attempted the paper tune test and it went miserably. My nock was tearing right big time, according to the charts I found online this means I should be moving my rest to the left. I followed the instructions and nothing changed in the tear, I had my rest move almost an inch to the left at one point and my nock was still tearing right. I had almost no up or down on the tear... is there something I'm missing? I put my bow info below if anyone can help me out I would really appreciate it!

PSE Premonition - 60lb draw / 29 inch DL
28.5" arrows with .340 spine and 100 grain target tips
QAD drop away rest
Currently have metal d-loop but installing a string d-loop shortly.

Thanks folks!
 

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Have you tried bare shaft tuning first? Shoot some arrows without any fletches on them at a target from 10yards to start and see how they are hitting. Adjust your rest to get them hitting straight, then move back to 20yards and repeat, then 30yards.
Paper tuning more of a 'fine tuning' step.
It maybe you've got some camb lean going on. Take it to an archery shop and get them to check it out for you.
 

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First and foremost I would make sure you are conscious of your grip to ensure you are not torquing the bow. Moving the rest left will remedy a right tear, but I don’t like to move my rest more then 1/16th to 1/8th out of center shot. Arrow spine sounds about right, so that should not be an issue. If your grip is not the culprit, it sounds like you will likely have to shim your cams to get closer to a bullet hole. Once you get as close as you can from shimming without over correcting, you can micro adjust your rest to clean up any slight remaining tear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Have you tried bare shaft tuning first? Shoot some arrows without any fletches on them at a target from 10yards to start and see how they are hitting. Adjust your rest to get them hitting straight, then move back to 20yards and repeat, then 30yards.
Paper tuning more of a 'fine tuning' step.
It maybe you've got some camb lean going on. Take it to an archery shop and get them to check it out for you.
Wil give that a go, thanks!
 

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Another thought is fletching contact. If the rest isn't properly timed and your fletchings are contacting it on the way out of the bow it can cause that issue
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First and foremost I would make sure you are conscious of your grip to ensure you are not torquing the bow. Moving the rest left will remedy a right tear, but I don’t like to move my rest more then 1/16th to 1/8th out of center shot. Arrow spine sounds about right, so that should not be an issue. If your grip is not the culprit, it sounds like you will likely have to shim your cams to get closer to a bullet hole. Once you get as close as you can from shimming without over correcting, you can micro adjust your rest to clean up any slight remaining tear.
I will try again tonight, I think I am fairly light on my grip but I will try be more conscious of it and see what happens. Appreciate the info.
 

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Hey guys, fairly new to bows and have been shooting for the last 6 months. Last night I attempted the paper tune test and it went miserably. My nock was tearing right big time, according to the charts I found online this means I should be moving my rest to the left. I followed the instructions and nothing changed in the tear, I had my rest move almost an inch to the left at one point and my nock was still tearing right. I had almost no up or down on the tear... is there something I'm missing? I put my bow info below if anyone can help me out I would really appreciate it!

PSE Premonition - 60lb draw / 29 inch DL
28.5" arrows with .340 spine and 100 grain target tips
QAD drop away rest
Currently have metal d-loop but installing a string d-loop shortly.

Thanks folks!
1) switch the metal d-loop to a d-loop built with d-loop cord.
2) need to post a how's my form photo...gotta fix FORM first, for tuning to work.

No hat. No long sleeves. Wear shoes. Get arrow perfectly horizontal...so that means no target on the floor.
Get middle of target up the same height as shoulders. Tuck shirt into pants. Photo like this.



Camera phone needs to see the floor, needs to see your shoes, need to see all of you and all of the bow.
Tape/clamp camera phone to a ladder and get ladder far away enough, so the camera can see the floor and your shoes.
Tape camera to ladder at shoulder height.

Since you moved the arrow rest almost an inch, and the right tear did not go away,
you have some serious form issues, that need fixing first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Since you moved the arrow rest almost an inch, shimming cams will not give you any results.
Shimming cams is a fine tuning technique.
Moving the arrow rest almost an inch is a HUGE tuning adjustment, and your right tear did not go away.

Going to need that form photo.
Interesting, will try get a photo tonight. Would love to say I think my form is perfect but could very well be lacking. I find it very interesting because I seem to be pretty accurate all the way up to 50 yards but can physically seem my arrow wobble mid flight. Like I said I'll get a photo tonight and see what you guys think..
 

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My guess would be that metal d-loop, a poorly timed rest causing fletching contact, improper grip, or some combination of these things. For the tear not to change at all with that huge rest movement, there has to be another major problem going on.
 

· Socket Man
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I just typed this out in another thread so I am going to paste it here also, when you are tuning and have a huge problem it can be totally you that is twisting the bow or punching the trigger causing the issue. You have got to rule out if you are the issue. Here is one of my favorite ways to see.

One thing I will throw out there as you work on the shooting form stuff is to come to full draw a few times per shooting session and settle into the shot, then glance up at the top cam and make sure the bow string is coming straight off the cam. If the bow string is angled it means you are twisting the bow. this is a huge issue and will make it hard to tune or shoot strong. It is such a simple thing to add to your training that doesn't cost a dime but it can make a huge difference.
 

· Socket Man
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Your bow has a tuning window, as long as your shooting form is within that window you should be able to tune the bow easily. But, the moment that you are doing something outside of that window you are in for a rough ride to say the least.

I have been in bow shops many times over the years where a customer will have a bow shooting horrible tears and the shop owner will hand me the bow and I can shoot bullet holes with the bow right now with absolutely no tuning at all. Then I have to go over with the customer what I am seeing in their efforts to shoot the bow.
 

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It looks to me like your draw length is too short. The knuckle of your release hand should be level with your ear lobe. This may mean your peep sight position isn't at the correct point either. Your bow hand grip is too strong. Grip the bow with your thumb and for finger only and the knuckles should be at 45° to the bow riser center line, like this:
7383920
 
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