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Hi everyone; I just finished setting up a brand new 27/60 Mathews Creed (which I love overall) and am having a bit of a problem paper tuning correcting a small “tail left” tear. My bow draw weight is maxed out (which my scale says is actually 58 lbs). I have installed QAD ultra HDX rest and shoot carbon express mayhem hunter 250 28.25" arrows using a release. My center shot is set at 11/16 (seems to be the standard for the Creed) and I cannot go further towards the riser than a couple of 16ths. Even doing this makes no difference, I still cannot achieve bullet holes.

IMG2(2).jpg

As you can see, the error is not that much and maybe I am being too anal in trying to correct it, but for the life of me, I have not been able to so and I am consistently getting this tear. Maybe it’s my form which I have been trying to pay attention to when doing this, but that has not helped.

What is very confusing is that I have researched this, and some places say move the rest away from the riser and others say move it toward the riser. I have tried moving the arrow rest right (as most sites on paper tuning recommend) as much as possible to correct this tear but cannot go too far as there is not much clearance on the Creed, and moving the rest too far right causes the fletches to hit the red cable.

Any help on this is appreciated.
 

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You need to move out from the Riser - assuming you are right handed - small amount at a time.
 

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Actually DMP, you're backwards.

Since the point is to the right of the tail (a right tear), the archer must move the rest slightly right to correct. It's not intuitive, and is based on the arrow's nodes (flexion).

D
 

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Left tear, move rest right. Always has been. I'd tune it out with the yokes. Shouldn't be very hard, thats not a bad tear.
 

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You might shorten your draw length by 1/16" or so. Just a few twists in the string might get that out, but I would try the yoke first.

Good luck.
 

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CHASE the arrow when adjusting SIGHTS.

Move REST IN OPPOSITE DIRECTION of tear!
In your case, a LEFT TEAR, move the rest ever so SLIGHTLY to the RIGHT.
Also, have you tried adjusting the yoke at all?
 

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Hi everyone; I just finished setting up a brand new 27/60 Mathews Creed (which I love overall) and am having a bit of a problem paper tuning correcting a small “tail left” tear. My bow draw weight is maxed out (which my scale says is actually 58 lbs). I have installed QAD ultra HDX rest and shoot carbon express mayhem hunter 250 28.25" arrows using a release. My center shot is set at 11/16 (seems to be the standard for the Creed) and I cannot go further towards the riser than a couple of 16ths. Even doing this makes no difference, I still cannot achieve bullet holes.

View attachment 1686267

As you can see, the error is not that much and maybe I am being too anal in trying to correct it, but for the life of me, I have not been able to so and I am consistently getting this tear. Maybe it’s my form which I have been trying to pay attention to when doing this, but that has not helped.

What is very confusing is that I have researched this, and some places say move the rest away from the riser and others say move it toward the riser. I have tried moving the arrow rest right (as most sites on paper tuning recommend) as much as possible to correct this tear but cannot go too far as there is not much clearance on the Creed, and moving the rest too far right causes the fletches to hit the red cable.

Any help on this is appreciated.
TWO things:

1) top axle, left side...PULL DOWN with an extra twist or at MOST, a MAXIMUM of adding two complete twists.

2) top axle, RIGHT SIDE...allow the top axle, right side to RISE UP, by removing, at a MAXIMUM, removing two completely twists...no more than this.

3) do not move your arrow rest any more...this is really a BAND aid approach.

4) shorten the draw length..you KNOW you need to do this...say 1/16th inch at a time.


THINK of your release side forearm as a LASER POINTER.

So,
IF I DUCT TAPE a flashlight on top of your forearm,
see where the LASER POINTER is pointing.

A SIDEWAYS paper tear,
means...

exactly that,
you are pulling SIDEWAYS on the bowstring,
so
the back end of the arrow, the nock
also flies SIDEWAYS,
and
when the nock end of the arrow is pulled SIDEWAYS by YOU, the shooter,
then,
the nock end travels NOT in line with the point of the arrow
and the back end of the arrow RIPS the paper SIDEWAYS to the LEFT,
cuz,
YOU the shooter,
PULLED the bowstring SIDEWAYS to the left.

So,
you can CHEAT and move the arrow rest to the RIGHT,
if you ABSOLUTELY refuse to fix your shooting posture.

Here is a real world, example
of what I mean,
by a shooter who is pulling the bowstring back at full draw
AND
inducing a MASSIVE sideways pull on the bowstring to the left.

Right handed shooter,
who is in MAJOR denial about draw length.




DASHED red line is where a laser pointer would point,
showing you where the arrow WANTS to fly,
with no steering correction.

BACK end of the arrow is going to be pulled WAY LEFT.
FRONT end of the arrow is going to be pushed WAY RIGHT.

So,
if this shooter could move the arrow rest say 2 FEET to the right...
then,
this shooter would get his BULLET HOLE...

the bullet hole would be 6 feet to the RIGHT of where he is aiming,
but,
hey,
he get's his bullet hole.

So,
since he cannot move his rest 24-inches to the RIGHT,
since his bow does not have this much adjustment to the RIGHT,
then,
he also tries moving the arrow rest all the way to the MAX to the LEFT
and
also get the same result..

the worlds LARGEST, most MASSIVE left paper tear...

for obvious reasons.

So,
the REAL FIX,
is not yoke tuning....yoke tuning is meant only for TINY paper tears,
like yours.

For someone who looks like this...




The ONLY FIX
is to change the bow DL,
and look like this...



with a much much shorter bow DRAW LENGTH,
so the elbow SWINGS AROUND the shoulder,
like a door on a hinge.


So,
try PULLING DOWN, top axle, LEFT SIDE.




Do not do 4 adjustments all at once.

STEP 1: add a half twist to the top axle, LEFT side, and see if this fixes things.

ADJUSTMENT 2: add another half twist to the top axle, LEFT side, and see if this fixes things.

ADJUSTMENT 3: REMOVE a half twist from the top axle, RIGHT side, and see if this fixes things.

ADJUSTMENT 4: REMOVE another half twist from the top axle, RIGHT side, and see if this fixes things.

ADJUSTMENT 5: add another half twist to the top axle, LEFT side, and see if this fixes things.

ADJUSTMENT 6: add another half twist to the top axle, LEFT side, and see if this fixes things.

ADJUSTMENT 7: REMOVE another half twist from the top axle, RIGHT side, and see if this fixes things.

ADJUSTMENT 8: REMOVE another half twist from the top axle, RIGHT side, and see if this fixes things.

If you go through EIGHT trips to the bow press,
and this does not fix things..

STOP,
no more tweaking the top axle
and change the draw length
in small amounts.

For your paper tear,
it will not require EIGHT trips to the bow press.


For other people,
it will.
 

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If you're a right hand shooter, add a twist to your left yoke leg and take one out of your right yoke leg. If you're a lefty, do the opposite.
 

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If you have that tear at several different distances and are a right handed archer, the only correction I'd recommend is to get the tail end to tear about that much higher. It's been my experience and that of many others who have posted over the years, that usually when they have finished with all the tuning that they are going to do including group tuning, there is a slight high left tear in paper.
 

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That tear is low as well. To fix this untwist the buss cable leg that attaches to the bottom 1/2 twist and shoot through the paper again. I always find a very slight high tear produces the best results for me.
 

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Actually DMP, you're backwards.

Since the point is to the right of the tail (a right tear), the archer must move the rest slightly right to correct. It's not intuitive, and is based on the arrow's nodes (flexion).

D
Really!! you believe the outdated Easton Tuning Guide? Here's another discussion link- http://forums.bowsite.com/tf/bgforums/thread-print.cfm?threadid=393454&forum=2 - where you will se that several others agree with what I say.

I generally start centershot on Mathews Bows at 13/16" from the riser to the centerline of the arrow and adjust from there, normally no adjustments needed , occasionally some yoke tuning. Try it yopu might be surprised!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow you guys are the best! thanks for all the great advise!. Nuts&bolts, thanks so much for taking the time to explain things - I will try your (and the others) recommended adjustments :smile: .
 

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concerning post 8, a left tear is a left tear, leftie or rightie; the procedure should be the same..left tear=left twists, etc.
 

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I'd check to make sure axel to axel and brace height are in spec. Since your bow is not maxing out at the weight it should. They should max a couple pounds over not under. But thats where I'd start before I tuned. But thats just me.
 

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Umm....left tear means move test left...not right.



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Aaaaaaahh... you posted. A picture that just proved the other guys point left tear move right that's what your picture clearly says but I agree with Alan that twist the yokes don't touch rest this guy is getting a left tear so twist left untwist right
 
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