[whitetail101]

The high tear is an indication of two things possibly happening. The first is the d-loop(nock point is too low) by raising the d-loop should correct. The second and more likely is the rest is not dropping fast enough and you are getting fletching contact with the rest launcher. Double check the timing on the rest and use some flour on the fletching and check for indications of clearance. To check the timing of the rest leave the rest in the down position and draw back the bow with an arrow on it. Have a friend mark the arrow where it touches the launcher arm. Let down and mark the arrow 1 inch toward the nock from this point. Renock the arrow and draw back, if the timing is correct the rest should not rise until the arrow is between the marks on the launcher(this will ensure the rest is timed with the last inch of the draw)

good luck

 

[sirrobinhood]

The high tear is an indication of two things possibly happening. The first is the d-loop(nock point is too low) by raising the d-loop should correct. The second and more likely is the rest is not dropping fast enough and you are getting fletching contact with the rest launcher. Double check the timing on the rest and use some flour on the fletching and check for indications of clearance. To check the timing of the rest leave the rest in the down position and draw back the bow with an arrow on it. Have a friend mark the arrow where it touches the launcher arm. Let down and mark the arrow 1 inch toward the nock from this point. Renock the arrow and draw back, if the timing is correct the rest should not rise until the arrow is between the marks on the launcher(this will ensure the rest is timed with the last inch of the draw)

good luck

Got that backward...High nock tear..Nocking point is high..You must lower your your loop or raise the rest.

 

[whitetail101]

Got that backward...High nock tear..Nocking point is high..You must lower your your loop or raise the rest.

OOPS! My bad! Should have proof-read before hitting the post button! Thanks for pointing out my mistake.

Sometimes my fingers move faster than my brain and I make mistakes like that, for the most part I think everything else was ok in my OP

 

[bcbow1971]

Place your arrow sqaure to your string......level with Berger hole......The two line on the QAD rest(On the right side where your thumb flips rest up) should be at least in line when at full draw....if not your cord needs to b lowered on your cable. QADs need that timing line on the rest adjusted right and if your rest is timed and arrow is sqaure to bowstring you should be close. If you have to make a huge adjustment from theremost likely your cams may not be timed, but bow specs and arrow specs are needed for more determination!!

I am taking my QAD off my bow because every now and again the launcher doesnt fall quick enough and my arrow fly funny!!! Plus marks on vanes.
Here is a picture of my bow at rest with QAD up and other with it down

 

[WVaBuckHunter]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but just because the two lines on the rest are lined up doesn't necessarily mean the rest is correctly timed. If you draw back and the lines aren't matching up, then your cord doesn't have enough tension on it. When those two lines match, that just means that the rest is in the "full up" position, or at 90*. It is possible to have your rest come up too early, and still have the lines match up correctly. You need to ensure that the rest is coming to the "full up" position in the last 1" of your draw cycle.

 

[bcbow1971]

Your rest is flipped up or you can pull it up when you draw.....best to preflip it like picture on top (That bow is at rest)and then draw and it then just moves back just a hair......the timing marks are for the activation......if you let down the rest will stay up but if the lines are not lined up or just past lined up then the release mechanism does not always work properly. But for coming up till the last 1" is not how this works but you don't want it pulling too much too early and have a friend look at you cables from side to make sure they are not being moves from pull cord.....

 

[WVaBuckHunter]

Your rest is flipped up or you can pull it up when you draw.....best to preflip it like picture on top (That bow is at rest)and then draw and it then just moves back just a hair......the timing marks are for the activation......if you let down the rest will stay up but if the lines are not lined up or just past lined up then the release mechanism does not always work properly. But for coming up till the last 1" is not how this works but you don't want it pulling too much too early and have a friend look at you cables from side to make sure they are not being moves from pull cord.....

When you pre flip the thumb wheel on the rest, you are not yet at the full up position. When you draw your bow, you want the rest to come to the "full up position" (90* to the shelf) in the last one inch of your draw cycle. The white lines at the thumb wheel are there for a visual to ensure that you are in fact making the rest come to the full up position. You can have the rest come up too soon, and the two lines will still line up, but the rest may not drop away quick enough to get fletching clearance. I have always set up QAD's to come to the full up postion in the last 1" of draw, and I have never had fletching contact. Here is the answer that QAD gives for fletching contact in their FAQ section on their website:

Q: I’m getting fletching contact, how do I eliminate this?

A: When properly installed and tuned, the Ultra-Rest will drop away every time the bow is fired with zero fletching contact, or return to the Capture Position during a Slow Let Down. If you are experiencing fletching contact, then additional tuning is required. Here are some helpful tips…

Single cam designs: Mathews, Parker, Ross, Martin, etc.):

- With the launcher in the Full Vertical Position, use a bow square to find the nocking point, which is set on average at a 1/8" to 1/4" nock high.

- It is very important that the timing cord is attached to the bows downward buss cable. The launcher must be 90 degrees to the bow shelf AT full draw (The launcher can come up an inch before full draw, but no sooner). The rest will not drop away properly if it is not in the Full Upright position AT full draw. **Extra tension on the timing cord at full draw is better than any slack in the cord at full draw, the main reason for the rest to come up before full draw is to compensate for a shooter that creeps before his shot.

 

[jimmiya]

I have a dilema....I was settinup my wifes Hoyt Vixcen last night and I set a G5 Expert II on it. I set it according to a bow square 90° perpedicular from the string to arrow. I was paper tuning and in order for it to shoot bullet holes the arrow is slanting upwards (fletching is lower than arrow point). Ive never had this happen.Anybody have any suggestions???? Pretty sure the cams are in synch.

 

[cyclepath]

When you pre flip the thumb wheel on the rest, you are not yet at the full up position. When you draw your bow, you want the rest to come to the "full up position" (90* to the shelf) in the last one inch of your draw cycle. The white lines at the thumb wheel are there for a visual to ensure that you are in fact making the rest come to the full up position. You can have the rest come up too soon, and the two lines will still line up, but the rest may not drop away quick enough to get fletching clearance. I have always set up QAD's to come to the full up postion in the last 1" of draw, and I have never had fletching contact. Here is the answer that QAD gives for fletching contact in their FAQ section on their website:

Q: I’m getting fletching contact, how do I eliminate this?

A: When properly installed and tuned, the Ultra-Rest will drop away every time the bow is fired with zero fletching contact, or return to the Capture Position during a Slow Let Down. If you are experiencing fletching contact, then additional tuning is required. Here are some helpful tips…

Single cam designs: Mathews, Parker, Ross, Martin, etc.):

- With the launcher in the Full Vertical Position, use a bow square to find the nocking point, which is set on average at a 1/8" to 1/4" nock high.

- It is very important that the timing cord is attached to the bows downward buss cable. The launcher must be 90 degrees to the bow shelf AT full draw (The launcher can come up an inch before full draw, but no sooner). The rest will not drop away properly if it is not in the Full Upright position AT full draw. **Extra tension on the timing cord at full draw is better than any slack in the cord at full draw, the main reason for the rest to come up before full draw is to compensate for a shooter that creeps before his shot.

I have tryed everything I can think of and still seem to be off. I'm ready to take everything off and start over without help from the pro shop. Where is the best place to start with the qad? Should the launcher be on the shelf when in the down possition? Where to start?