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At 3 feet I’m getting bullet holes with bare shaft, but the further away I go, the harder it tears. This is my first time paper tuning bare so any help is appreciated.
 

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The reason I don't paper tune anymore is due to the same problem you are experiencing. What I have discovered is that what you are really seeing at 3 feet is a snap shot of your arrow angulations as it flies through the air at that distence. So you might be successful in "tuning" at 3 feet just to find at 6 feet you your arrow produces a tear.

What I have found much more effective in tuning my bows is using a bare shaft arrow at a target setup at shoulder level at no closer than 15 feet. The key is to have the arrow enter the target perfectly straight and level. Then at 10 yards repeat and finally fine tuning at 20 yards along with group tuning your bare shaft arrow with your fletched arrows.

What shooting through paper is an excellent method to nock tune bare shaft arrows before fletching them to ensure all arrows are leaving the bow exactly the same.

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Whilst I am also not an advocate of paper tuning - tuning your bow based on how an arrow enters into a target, as mentioned above, is equally flawed given ther median of the target may drectly affect how the arrow comes to rest in it. I do strongly support bare shaft tuning based on point of impact. Given that paper tuning is extremely form critical, and a slight variance of grip pressure can affect the results, it requires a degree of consistency that many dont have or can't consistently replicate. There are many who also do not advocate paper tuning - including John Dudley.
 

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If the tear is the same everytime and consistent then adjust the bow. What you are seeing is an un tune set up. As long as you are consistent .
Bare shaft through paper can be hard for some. If the bare shaft has say a slight right tear at 3 ft. And I mean it can be so small you think it’s a bullet hole as you back up the right tear will get bigger. And as you back up it will get even bigger. This is because the bow is not tuned.

Lots of people bare shaft through paper at 10 yards. Personally you need to go to 20 yards. Anything less is a waste of time. But there are variables. You need to make sure bow is set correctly before bare shaft tuning. Or damn close. You need to nock tune all shafts first.

Lots to bare shaft tuning. But what you are seeing is what you should be seeing in bare shaft tuning when you first start.
 

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If the tear is the same everytime and consistent then adjust the bow. What you are seeing is an un tune set up. As long as you are consistent .
Bare shaft through paper can be hard for some. If the bare shaft has say a slight right tear at 3 ft. And I mean it can be so small you think it’s a bullet hole as you back up the right tear will get bigger. And as you back up it will get even bigger. This is because the bow is not tuned.

Lots of people bare shaft through paper at 10 yards. Personally you need to go to 20 yards. Anything less is a waste of time. But there are variables. You need to make sure bow is set correctly before bare shaft tuning. Or damn close. You need to nock tune all shafts first.

Lots to bare shaft tuning. But what you are seeing is what you should be seeing in bare shaft tuning when you first start.
Nailed it


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Bare shaft, paper, and broadhead tuning are all exactly the same.

The adjustments are the same, the flight issues are the same, you're just looking at a different diagnostic indicator.
 

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From my understanding after 15-20 feet bare shaft tuning is useless since that is where the helical or offset on the vane starts working, I guess the idea is to start the shaft straight before helical or offset and the arrow should correct. I paper tune at 5-7 yards (15-20ft). Don't really thnk much further than that.
 
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