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I was paper tuning my sc patriot w/ NAP QT 3000 this morning and at 5-6 ft I was getting a bullet hole when I moved back to 12-15 ft. I was tail high. I am having a hard time getting rid of this tear. I moved my rest and reshot at 5 ft. and it is no longer a bullet hole. I have not sprayed with powder to check for clearance problems so this may be a factor but everything looks clear and I am shooting 3" feathers on gt 55/75 at 66lb. with 100 gr tip. Anyone have any suggestions? Should I re tune for a bullet at 5 ft and then group tune or should I try for a bullet at longer distance? Thanks, Andrew
 

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I'll catch flack for this but try it anyway... paper tune with a bare shaft... from 3 feet then 20 feet... then shoot a fletched shaft and see what happens...
 

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umm, if you paper tune with a bare shaft how can you see what kind of hole you have without fletches? Duhhhhhh.

You could be having clearence problems OR your blade is too stiff.
 

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I knew I'd catch it about that..... You'd be suprised at the tears you can see with a bare shaft.... And when you then shoot one with fletch, if you have any contact at all it will show up big time....

I never said you had to do it, but it works for me....


Besides.... aren't you an AGGIE?:D :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think I have it figured out since the 55/75 are a little underspined I had to take some spring tension out of my rest then everything came together.
 

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"umm, if you paper tune with a bare shaft how can you see what kind of hole you have without fletches? Duhhhhhh."

Brad,

Without the fletches, the arrow has no stabilization so it doesn't correct in flight. If you have any adjustment errors they will become really obvious the further back you shoot through paper.

And yes, the shaft will still give tears through paper that you can "read" without the fletches.

The top 3 rows were all shot at 6'are:
3-18 w/60gr point no fletch 3-18 w/100gr point 3fletch
3-39 w/100gr point no fletch 3-39 w/100gr point 3fletch
2013 w/NIBB no fletch 28.25" 2013 w/NIBB 3fletch 28.9"

The lowest two tears are of a 2314. The left one was shot at 6' the right one at 25'.

The only thing you have to remember with bare shaft paper tuning is that adding vanes will change the tune...slightly. The 2013 tears are very suttle. You would expect the longer shaft to show a left (weak) tear; the hole is almost perfect but slightly right...the plastic fletch (weight at the back) added stiffness.
 

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washed up wannabe
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You can't paper tune without REALLY good shooting form. It's as much a measure of your shooting form as it is the measure of tune.

I've had the same results as shoe. However, I realized it for what it was because of the inconsistancy of my tears. An adjustment in my drawlength brought constant bullet holes.

Once I get good bullet holes I move on to bare shaft grouping and horizontal and veritcal line tuning.

Once I'm all done I shoot paper again and find that I usually don't have perfect holes again.

No biggee. Arrow accuracy at all distances you shoot at and, and if you are a hunter, broadhead accuracy is paramont.
 

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Papper tuning with bare shaft is also a sure way to eliminate fletching clearance as a possible issue if your having problems with fletched arrows. If it reads the same as your fletched arrows up close you know fletch contact isnt the problem. If you have trouble reading it paint the tip with a felt tip and shoot it through papper before it dries.
 

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I find while bare shaft tuning I have to add a piece of duct tape to the back of the shaft to compensate for the weight of the vanes. Doing it this way, and when you refletch your shafts it doesn't change the tune. Just my two cents. Be safe.
Shoot Straight
Derbytown :D

P.S.
I weighed 3-4" Duravanes, then weighed the duct tape until it weighed the same.
 
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