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Discussion Starter #1
I am reading conflicting things about paper tuning. I have a right tear of about 1/2 inch when I am paper tuning. (right tear meaning the nock/fletching end is out to the right of the point).

Easton says this tear is uncommon for release shooters but i can move the rest to the left or i might have a clearance problem.

thebowman.com says for this tear I need to move my rest to the right.

Searching previous threads its hard to tell what people are talking about, ie right vs left tears.

So what gives? Im going to go out there and try some different things but just wanted to know where I should start trying.

Rest is a trophy taker shaky hunter and i use a release. Thanks

Brian
 

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If it was me I would throw the paper away and use the walk back method. I would think you could do a search and find some info on it. The nutshell version is you take one pin on your bow and sight it in at 10 yards, then using the same pin shoot at 30 yards, bear in mind it will shoot low. Look at the point of impact to see if it is right or left of the bull you were shooting at 10 yards. If the arrow hits to the left, move the rest to the right and vice versa, a little at a time!!!! If it is off move the rest and resight at 10 yards then "walk back" and using the same pin shoot at 30. Keep doing this till your arrows hit in the same vertical plane. You can stretch it out to 40 or 50 once you get it close at 30 to fine tune it. I tried the paper method and about pulled my hair out. Hope this helps. K.B.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am using an HHA vertical pin sight and my groups are good at all distances, no variation left to right. I am probably overstressing paper tuning anyway since my arrows are grouping good. I think ill go tomorrow and try moving it both ways and see what happens. thanks for the suggestion though.

Brian
 

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Tuning

hokiehunter - I believe you will find the information you are looking for using the address below. I would paper tune before any thing else. If the arrows are not leaving the bow correctly a lot of other problems will likely show up. Good groups are what we all want but if the arrows are not all striking the target in alignment (at all ranges) penetration suffers. Without proper penetration clean kills are hard to come by.

Take your time and don't be satisfied with anything less than a properly tuned bow. If the arrows are not leaving the bow correctly, you will be in for a real challenge when its time to shoot broadheads.

Learn to properly tune your bow and you will be a better archer for it.


http://www.eastonarchery.com/news/tuningGuide/complete_tuning_guide.pdf

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
thanks, the easton chart is what i was looking at before. I moved my rest about 1/16 to the left and was shooting great holes. I am shooting at 65 lbs with cx 300's at 29" and once i had those tuned i used a couple of cx 4560's at 29" (weaker spine) and they made about an inch right tear (fletching to the right of point). I dont get that but the cx 300's are shooting great for me, which is about 1/2" high tear. Thanks

Brian
 

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Tuning

Great! I'm glad it's coming together for you.

I found the best way to approach this tuning thing is to have the right attitude. Look at it like a learning experience that can be rewarding and fun. Don't be afraid to try different things. When stumped, check with your local pro shop, here on archerytalk and don't overlook Bowsite's web site. A lot of knowledgeable folks willing to help.

Good luck.
 
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