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Hoyt Axius Ultra
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my bow tuned along with a new rest at a local pro shop. Here is a pic shooting through paper after i got it back. What do you guys think? And tips to get it more "bullet" hole

7434556
 

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Back Yard Champion
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I don't believe in having someone tune my bow. They aren't me....

You can only tune as well as you can shoot.

When paper tuning it's best to use different distances, but in your case you have a nasty tear..

You need to makes some moves. With vertical move watch arrow/berger hole alignment. You don't want the arrow below the berger hole.......
You have a nock low and left. Raise nocking point or lower rest. Move rest a tad left. Always move in small increments. Usually I like to correct one direction at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't believe in having someone tune my bow. They aren't me....

You can only tune as well as you can shoot.

When paper tuning it's best to use different distances, but in your case you have a nasty tear..

You need to makes some moves. With vertical move watch arrow/berger hole alignment. You don't want the arrow below the berger hole.......
You have a nock low and left. Raise nocking point or lower rest. Move rest a tad left. Always move in small increments. Usually I like to correct one direction at a time.
Im new to tuning on my own and after taking it somewhere id rather learn myself. What do you mean by berger hole?
 

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Gold Supporting Archer
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The shop calls this tuned ? Did they show you the bullethole they got ?
 

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1 your nock point is to high. And 2 move your rest to the left. Make sure your are not torquing your grip???
 

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I don't believe in having someone tune my bow. They aren't me....

You can only tune as well as you can shoot.

When paper tuning it's best to use different distances, but in your case you have a nasty tear..

You need to makes some moves. With vertical move watch arrow/berger hole alignment. You don't want the arrow below the berger hole.......
You have a nock low and left. Raise nocking point or lower rest. Move rest a tad left. Always move in small increments. Usually I like to correct one direction at a time.
You move the rest right to correct a left tear.

Or twist left yokes, or shim cams to the left.

The info on the vertical adjustments are correct if the cams are in sync. Make sure cams hit stops at the same time first.
 
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Im new to tuning on my own and after taking it somewhere id rather learn myself. What do you mean by berger hole?
See the hole in my riser that's the berger hole
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The berger hole is the hole that the mounting screw for the arrow rest screws into.

I would find a different shop if they think that is good enough.
Ya im going to see what i can do on my own with the rest. If i cant fix it with that, I'm going to take it somewhere else.
 

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Your welcome buddy it's a little overwhelming learning how to paper tune at first but you'll get the hang of it. Baby steps watch some Dudley videos and others paper tuning and in no time you'll have it
 

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Dru219: Can you post a couple of pictures of the rest? Also show where the timing cable is tied to? Maybe post a side view of the rest at full draw with an arrow in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Your welcome buddy it's a little overwhelming learning how to paper tune at first but you'll get the hang of it. Baby steps watch some Dudley videos and others paper tuning and in no time you'll have it
Ya im getting there. Yoke and cam tuning is where i get lost right now haha
 

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Before you go making too many adjustments, try double checking everything and messing with your form.
Check the arrow with the rest cocked-up. Where does it lie in relation to the Berger hole?
Take an arrow and clamp it to your riser, is your arrow parallel?

If you have a draw board, confirm that your cams are synched with stops hitting at the same time.

This is for 2 reasons:
1: you obviously want to learn
2: if these things don't check out, you'll be chasing your tail with rest adjustments.

If it all checks out:

Start with the tail low aspect of it.
This can be a grip and anchor issue. Too much "heal of the hand" and/or your release elbow too low/dropping.

Then, if you're righty, a left tear could be a DL that's a bit long and/or your bow arm is compressing/your bow arm shoulder blade it moving toward your spine because you're not keeping it set. You're grip can also be too deep into your hand, causing torque.

That's where I'd start. Moving the rest should be the last things you consider. In fact, I'd go with shimming the cams (because you don't have yokes on that bow, I think) before living the rest. For that, you'll need a press though.
 

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You move the rest right to correct a left tear. _ Yes, you are correct.

Or twist left yokes, or shim cams to the left.

The info on the vertical adjustments are correct if the cams are in sync. Make sure cams hit stops at the same time first.
I made a boo-boo. Too many things going on all at one time.
 
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1 your nock point is to high. And 2 move your rest to the left. Make sure your are not torquing your grip???
Nock low, nocking is too low. Raise nocking nock point to correct - right out of the book..........
 

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The shop calls this tuned ? Did they show you the bullethole they got ?

My post #2 - "I don't believe in having someone tune my bow. They aren't me."

So may not be the shop. One of the reasons I wouldn't paper tune for people when I worked at archer shop. I'd have the owner shoot through paper and help adjust or correct what he or she was doing wrong....
 

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So much information to absorb....Makes is hard if you're a newie.........Take your time.
 

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