Archery Talk Forum banner
21 - 40 of 43 Posts

·
Gold Supporting Archer
Joined
·
10,236 Posts
My post #2 - "I don't believe in having someone tune my bow. They aren't me."

So may not be the shop. One of the reasons I wouldn't paper tune for people when I worked at archer shop. I'd have the owner shoot through paper and help adjust or correct what he or she was doing wrong....

You know and I know,,,,,nobody will bullethole a bow, and a second guy,throw an arrow like this !!! It's impossible to throw an arrow like this unless there was a significant bump on the bow upon arrow release.

My point ? I agree with you. But the differences between you and me getting a bullethole are very very minute. Providing ofcourse we are releasing the arrow clean, gripping the bow clean etc.


So the bullethole won't be so dramatic. I have never witnessed it anyway. This thing got a nose dive point,and a right 45 degree angle to the right. Almost as if the rest isn't level, and the nocking point is too high. Something tells me this bow was not leveled in a bow vice when they placed the rest on.

I'd scrap what the shop did, level the bow in the bow vice,set the nock height and arrow rest off the berger hole,and tweak from there. This was someone slapping a rest on. lol ??? I'd have blown a gasket if I paid for this work.
 

·
Back Yard Champion
Joined
·
30,756 Posts
You know and I know,,,,,nobody will bullethole a bow, and a second guy,throw an arrow like this !!! It's impossible to throw an arrow like this unless there was a significant bump on the bow upon arrow release.

My point ? I agree with you. But the differences between you and me getting a bullethole are very very minute. Providing ofcourse we are releasing the arrow clean, gripping the bow clean etc.


So the bullethole won't be so dramatic. I have never witnessed it anyway. This thing got a nose dive point,and a right 45 degree angle to the right. Almost as if the rest isn't level, and the nocking point is too high. Something tells me this bow was not leveled in a bow vice when they placed the rest on.

I'd scrap what the shop did, level the bow in the bow vice,set the nock height and arrow rest off the berger hole,and tweak from there. This was someone slapping a rest on. lol ??? I'd have blown a gasket if I paid for this work.
He's self proclaimed newbie. I've seen newbies make a well tuned bow look like trash.....

Nock low, raise nocking point or lower rest........Right out of the book.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
947 Posts
Raise rest 1/16" move rest left 1/16"
If this is a consistent tear
 

·
Back Yard Champion
Joined
·
30,756 Posts
You didn't have a senior moment did you sonny lol I'm picking
Senior moment? What? I'll have you know I'm 72 years young :giggle:

Only time I feel senior is when the wife drags me shopping. My feet feel like they turned to lead..........
 

·
Back Yard Champion
Joined
·
30,756 Posts
Raise rest 1/16" move rest left 1/16"
If this is a consistent tear
Copied from one of my sources/books/manuals............You either raise the nocking point or lower the rest.

tuning.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,276 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,276 Posts
Raise rest 1/16" move rest left 1/16"
If this is a consistent tear
Both of these suggestions are opposite of what you need to do. Lol
 

·
Gold Supporting Archer
Joined
·
10,236 Posts
I'm kinda laughing now as to what is actually agreed upon what exactly has gone on with this paper tune.

I see a nose dive arrow point,which indicates to me, nock high,which angles the arrow downwards.

Next I see the end of the arrow, fletching end. angling up to the right,as if the rest is tilted low on the left side,causing the right side to stay high and fly off to the right.

I have not seen what type of cam system this bow is,hybrid or two cam binary ?

Have we seen what the bow looks like @ full draw on a draw board ? Is there cam lean ? Are the stops hitting together ?

Next, level it out in a bow vice and check that rest to be put on correctly. Something tells me the shop flopped the rest on and said here you go,by eyeball. Laser the arrow sitting on the rest to see it's not angled towards the left causing that right tear. The arrow @ rest should line up with the aim string for straightness along with your pins. flush it all up.

Next since we have a newbie, we can talk grip. Sometimes too much thumb on a grip will cause an angle shot. Focus on the handle resting into the crevice of your forefinger and thumb. Then figure out if a high grip or a lower grip resting into the palm hand works on that bow. First thing I do on a new bow is high and low grip it to see how it shoots. Hoyt's have always shot better for me with a lower grip, and PSE and Mathews always shot better for me with a high grip. Thats just me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,206 Posts
The picture shows a low left tear. See my post above, go through all that stuff before moving nocking point up/rest down shimming cams left or twisting left yokes, or moving rest right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,967 Posts
Holy rabies is anyone else confused yet???

Was it ever determined whether it was a tech or the OP who shot the bullet holes at the shop? Then, is the paper being done with fletched or bare shafts, and is it one arrow or multiple?

Did we ever get what bow it is? Few comments refer to draw stops hitting at the same time, but some bows like one cam slightly ahead of the other, and the nock slightly high, so bow model may matter.

Have we gotten whether tears are consistent?

Then finally, OP what is your intended use with this bow? If it's hunting, then work on the tears and go on to broadhead tuning; If it's target, then "bullet hole" tears may not give you your tightest groups... Many top target archers would shoot tears that might be down right embarrassing to tuners.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tirving

·
Gold Supporting Archer
Joined
·
10,236 Posts
The picture shows a low left tear. See my post above, go through all that stuff before moving nocking point up/rest down shimming cams left or twisting left yokes, or moving rest right.


Semantics,,,,,lol

Oh shoot, This picture shows up better on my phone. I now can see fletching. I thought it was a bareshaft. This might be a bit easier to adjust.Tip diving left which kicks the nock up to the right. Tap the rest to the right from facing he aimstring and it will bring the fletching to stop wobbling.

Again, I cannot see how this rest was properly mounted on this bow. Had to be done "by eyeball". Personally I don't trust the tuner, and I would start from scratch all over again.Drawboard the bow, checking the stops,checking the nocking point and checking the rest mounting. All done on a leveled bow in a bow vice. My 2nd favorite tool next to a draw board.


Also, do we have multiple tears doing the same thing ? Being he is a newbie, he might be inconsistent with his grip too ?
 

·
Back Yard Champion
Joined
·
30,756 Posts
Holy rabies is anyone else confused yet???

Was it ever determined whether it was a tech or the OP who shot the bullet holes at the shop? Then, is the paper being done with fletched or bare shafts, and is it one arrow or multiple?

Did we ever get what bow it is? Few comments refer to draw stops hitting at the same time, but some bows like one cam slightly ahead of the other, and the nock slightly high, so bow model may matter.

Have we gotten whether tears are consistent?

Then finally, OP what is your intended use with this bow? If it's hunting, then work on the tears and go on to broadhead tuning; If it's target, then "bullet hole" tears may not give you your tightest groups... Many top target archers would shoot tears that might be down right embarrassing to tuners.
No bullet holes. Newbie shot the fletch low left tear. Newbie that he is he's got lot coming at him. I'd rather get him shooting than putting a ton of worry on his shoulders.
 
  • Like
Reactions: huntforfood703

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
This chart helped me when learning. It's a screenshot so not best quality.


Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

·
Shootin and Cussin
Joined
·
24,574 Posts
1 your nock point is to high. And 2 move your rest to the left. Make sure your are not torquing your grip???
This is the big thing. I just went through this over the weekend. I tuned a friends bow but he could not get a bullet hole with it. He argued the point until I got another person to shoot it. They got as bullet hole as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: huntforfood703

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Not to hijack this thread, but how many arrows does everyone typically shoot when paper tuning? I never considered this and tuned my bow to a bullet hole on one arrow the other day and then picked up a different arrow and it was tearing high left.
 

·
Back Yard Champion
Joined
·
30,756 Posts
This is the big thing. I just went through this over the weekend. I tuned a friends bow but he could not get a bullet hole with it. He argued the point until I got another person to shoot it. They got as bullet hole as well.
Been there, done that before.........People here on AT don't realize newbies and oldies can't shoot well, period. Loading these people down with timing, shimming and other junk ain't helping a bit.......
 

·
Back Yard Champion
Joined
·
30,756 Posts
Not to hijack this thread, but how many arrows does everyone typically shoot when paper tuning? I never considered this and tuned my bow to a bullet hole on one arrow the other day and then picked up a different arrow and it was tearing high left.
First, at least two arrows and more is desirable. Select arrows for weight, spine, but allowing weight difference between bare shaft and fletched. Second, target/paper to be at shoulder height. 3rd, shoot from different distances - 6 feet is close, but after getting a bullet hole step back 2 feet and shoot again. Got bullet hole, step back again 2 or 4 more feet. Getting a bullet hole from 6 to 12 feet you're going good. Good enough to go with other tuning methods.

Read right to left. Good for center throughout. Nock low to start, adjusted, nock high, adjusted, bullet hole.

bare shaft ttuning nuts&bolts1 002-2-1.jpg


Went outside - bare shaft and fletched arrows clashing/slapping badly I went with one bare shaft to start. 20 yards is 3rd set of doubles.......

bare shaft tuning - nuts&bolts 006-1-1-1-1.jpg



Center shot was set using nuts&bolts "trick." Arrow taped or rubber banded to inside of riser. Rest moved to have nocked arrow run parallel to taped/rubber banded arrow on rise.

Picture is that of nuts&bolts'

setting center shot.jpg


Bow being tuned was timed within .002". Nocking point was set to 1/16" high. All pictures are 10/12-15/2020. Bow still shoots great to date........This particular bow proved horrible when set to factory spec of 13/16".
 
21 - 40 of 43 Posts
Top