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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a new arrow rest, QAD PRO HD.
Shots were off when shooting, so I decided to paper tune.
After much adjusting this is what I'm at. How do I minor fix these problems?
Some are perfect some are ugly. :confused:

Circle's on the paper looks to be point of entrance.
the Lines are the fletching cuts.

How I am judging the arrows point of entrance. "little hole with little tares all around the little hole, in the shape of a circle"
 

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I used to have the same problem when paper tuning. It was my grip. If my budy shot the bow perfect bullet hole I would shoot it and get all kinds of different tears.
 

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As Set the Hook said- check contact (if you have any make sure the rest is coming up to full upright position in the last 1/2" of draw- no sooner).

After that, unless there are differences in your arrows, it may be your grip.
 

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imo if you have not made any adjustments and have all these diff tears, then i would imagine you have a torquing prob? i enjoy bare shaft paper tuning, for me easier to read, but this is how i was taught and then after i am consistent to chase the head with the qad.
 

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Whenever you're paper tuning, you need to shoot sets of arrows to get a consistent reading. There's no point in shooting one arrow and making an adjustment because you may be adjusting for a random shooting error rather than a consistent problem.

What you need to do is get a big sheet of unlined paper, made a horizontal row of about 6 aiming dots and shoot a set of 6 arrows and see what kind of a pattern you get.

If there are any significantly different ones, it's your form and you need to get that consistent before you waste time and energy paper tuning the wrong problem.

If they are all the same, you can tune accordingly.

At close distances you will hit a couple of inches below your aiming dot, so on each successive row of shots you can aim at your previous hole. You should end up with a series of rows of holes. Make notes on each row and what you did to change the tuning. Then you end up with something you can keep as a solid reference for future use.
 

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Try and index the nocks on the arrows that are real bad. Sometimes you will get your bow shootin perfect bullet holes consistantly and then a random arrow out of the dozen will read a left tear, right tear, etc. Take that arrow and rotated the nock so you have a different cock vane pointed up and shoot again. Many times you will find that certain arrows will only bullet hole when the nock is indexed a certain way. I believe in my opinion that is has to do with spine consistantcy around the whole shaft. Some arrows will show a left tear, rotate the nock and it will show a different tear, rotate the nock again and it will show a bullet hole. JUst takes some time, be patient. Like others have said, if you are to get good results with paper tuning you have to have a consistant and torque free grip and make sure you get rid of any fletching contact of the rest.
 

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also, if you are a right handed shooter, shooting a release, and you have a left tear, move your rest to the right. If you have a right tear, move your rest to the left. Common sense tells you to move your rest to the left for a left tear, since you would be moving the front of the arrow to the left, it would make sense, but don't be fooled. I struggled with this concept when I started paper tuning and finally got some info on paper tuning. Remember, left tear, move rest to the right, right tear, move rest to the left. And if you have a combo tear like high left for example, always correct the vertical portion of the tear first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks everyone for the info, i'll be sure to give it all a try.
I don't think that it is my grip because I am not torquing, all fingers are off the bow, it just sits on my palm.
 

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I don't think Stash has his first line labeled correctly. If you have a low nock you get a tear that has the fletch below the point which is called "nock low". Raise your nocking point or lower your rest. Don't raise your rest.
 

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tinker with it up and down just a 1/32 but it might just be you. Hard to say when ur not physically doing it.
 

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Thanks everyone for the info, i'll be sure to give it all a try.
I don't think that it is my grip because I am not torquing, all fingers are off the bow, it just sits on my palm.
Sorry going to disagree it's totally you. Shooting open hand will 9 out 10 times give you the same exact results as gripping the bow too tight. From what i saw in your paper------yes it is all you.:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sorry going to disagree it's totally you. Shooting open hand will 9 out 10 times give you the same exact results as gripping the bow too tight. From what i saw in your paper------yes it is all you.:wink:
Ok, so how am I suppose to shoot?
 

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Tune is affected by grip.
I recently bought a Torqueless grip because I couldn't get a good tear with the stock grip.
I still had to try different fletching (feathers) to get that last little tweak of bullet tear perfection.
Another thing i've noticed, one arrow (for whatever reason) may produce a different tear than other arrows from the same batch; I now use at least three different but identical arrows when tuning.
 

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Ok, so how am I suppose to shoot?
I explain it to my customers like this-------for a lack of a better term an old lady holding her fine china tea cup she wants to be elegant but doesn't want to drop it. Not open handed but also not a tight grip. I take the tips of my fingers and just rest them lightly on the front of the riser. Now I have complete control of the bow without torque or roll in my hand. Shooting open handed you will grab the bow on the shot and torque the bow before the arrow leaves the string. Shoot open handed and I will guarantee you will grab and torque the bow.:wink::beer:
 
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