Starting with arrows that are stiff enough to overspined (never underspined) is important for me. I shoot release w' a drop away, compound bow.
I paper tune a few field points just to confirm my eyeball setup is close and there are no clearance issues. I'll quickly adjust so that the arrow is slightly tail high but close left/right. I like the point within the radius of the fletch, but tail high is the more important starting point. I will go to the group merge if the tail is less than 1/2" high.
I then set pins out to 50 yards, and shoot practice broadheads into foam AND field points into a bag. I then move the rest and nock point to merge the broadhead and field point groups.
This is done by moving the rest so that the BHs are moved toward the FPs. I reset the pins each time, and shoot 5 spot targets to keep the BHs (and my Turbo Nocks) apart.
The result is very straight flying arrows, and the ability to practice/confirm tune with field points. BUT if the FPs move, I do need to retune per the above.
I learned this technique from an article in Bowhuting World years ago. It works. I've even fine tuned my 3D bow using my hunting arrows and this technique just to be confident of the tune on the 3D bow.
Tuning is tuning, hunting or target. I view paper tuning as only a starting benchmark for determining whether the arrow is coming off the rest properly; it is not IMHO an end point tuning method, and too much reliance on a paper test can give false results. As other past posts have so aptly pointed out, the process for tuning is dependent upon a number of critical factors, many of which are overlooked, such as shooting a proper draw length.
I wholeheartedly agree with cambow.. paper tuning is not
the cure all, it is the starting point to allow you to proceed
further with your tuning .. you've got to start with properly
spined arrows and proper center tune and nocking point
before you can proceed further.. paper tuning will give you
this.. It's only at this point I shoot longer yardages to fine
tune to bow further and play with upper/lower limb position,
cam rotation at the wall vs. creep, etc...Whether hunting
or target shooting, after you set your bow poundage and
draw length where it should be(most folks are too long),
paper tuning should be done.. so many people shoot
pretty good at 15-20yards and then can't understand
why their groups open up with no consistency at 30+..
If you check , most will tell you they didn't paper tune
before hand.. eyeballing a set up will only take you
so far... you've got to paper tune before testing for
dowrange accuracy or you won't usually achieve it..
I paper tune Because i like to see the bullet hole with no tears. It tells me that i'm shooting strait, and thats a confidence boost.
My bow was shooting good groups, but after paper tuning it got even better. Tuned, or confident? Well i believe that was a bit of both. It just say's your gonna shoot the best you can in my opinion. Thats a good feeling out in the feild when you care most about a clean shot.
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