[Primeshooter67]

Looking for help as I’ve never had this issue before with any of the bows I’ve owned before.

Background:

Draw lengths have been measured and they’re all dead on my previous bows

Bows are tuned to the best of my abilities

Problem:

I picked up 2 leftover stock bowtechs in the last few months ( Solution SS & SR350). Zero issues with tuning and getting them to shoot. I really like them.

My peep is blocking 1/3” of housing at full draw (right side). My peep is not twisted, it’s straight and has been verified more times than I care to count. Based on impact, I need to move my sight further right, but that would make my alignment issue even worse.

I’m assuming this is an anchor/alignment issue, but why haven’t i seen with any other brand? And if so, any recommendations on what’s wrong?

I’m doing a terrible job explaining, but it has me baffled.

Anyone else ever hear of this?

Almost sounds like a torque issue! Try a different grip on the bow

 

[8025952]

Second the torque, if you want to use the same grip you will have to change your arrow setup. Assuming your tuned be it paper, bareshaft, walk back, or broadhead. What ever your preferred method. A weaker arrow will pull away from the riser. Torque tuning is another option, but drop away limit the rest movement. so you would be changing the length of the arrow to achieve the same result. So either more tip weight or just go weaker in spine.

 

[Mossy-Back]

Is it the peep blocking the housing, or the riser? On my SR6 the right edge of my sight ring is blocked by the riser as I look through the peep.

 

[dtrkyman]

Move the rest to 13 and adjust deadlock and see if it helps.

 

[mod-it]

Move the rest to 13 and adjust deadlock and see if it helps.

This. Set the arrow centershot to 3/4" or 13/16th's and just use deadlock to tune.

 

[Poe Outdoors]

The best way to set center shot I've found with every Bowtech I've owned is to place an arrow on the riser above the shelf and another one nocked with the rest in the up position. Adjust the rest until the two arrows are parallel and start the tuning process. I pay zero attention to any number when it comes to center shot because it will most likely move during the tuning proces anyway. Even with that method the right side of the sight picture is somewhat blocked by the riser and cable flex guard but it doesn't bother me.

 

[Bucket]

The best way to set center shot I've found with every Bowtech I've owned is to place an arrow on the riser above the shelf and another one nocked with the rest in the up position. Adjust the rest until the two arrows are parallel and start the tuning process. I pay zero attention to any number when it comes to center shot because it will most likely move during the tuning proces anyway. Even with that method the right side of the sight picture is somewhat blocked by the riser and cable flex guard but it doesn't bother me.

With the new cam lock you don't have to move the rest to tune. Some do (including me on occasion), but it isn't a must. You can set the centershot then move the cams to tune. There are benefits to having the centershot at 13/16" or more.

 

[jbm5095]

Is it the peep blocking the housing, or the riser? On my SR6 the right edge of my sight ring is blocked by the riser as I look through the peep.

It’s actually both.

I’ve got my rest @ 11/16”. I set the cams to 0, and did the parallel arrow deal (arrow is slightly off to the right @ this CS.

I originally had my arrow @5/8” but my cables/riser were too much of an issue and I couldn’t get comfortable.


Tuning at any of those CS’s haven’t presented any issue, can get a good tune either way. I just don’t like how things are lining up in relation to cables/riser

Now on to the peep blocking the right side of my sight housing. I reached out to Padgett and he’s helping me get my body in better alignment. I was out of whack and I believe that was causing the peep/housing issue. Pulled the peep until I get everything in a good place and will try again.

 

[Poe Outdoors]

With the new cam lock you don't have to move the rest to tune. Some do (including me on occasion), but it isn't a must. You can set the centershot then move the cams to tune. There are benefits to having the centershot at 13/16" or more.

I'm familiar with the deadlock systerm having owned and set up many Bowtechs. I use the deadlock for paper tuning, micro adjustments are made to the rest from distance when doing walk back or french tuning. 3/4", 13/16", 7/8" are just numbers and don't mean anything because of the influence the shooter has on the riser during the shot. Everyone torques the bow whether we think we do or not. Center shot can be set at any location but it doesn't have to stay there. The goal is to make the arrows hit where we want them to hit with perfect arrow flight.

 

[Bucket]

I'm familiar with the deadlock systerm having owned and set up many Bowtechs. The deadlock is used for paper tuning, microadjustments are made to the rest from distance when doin walk back or french tuning. 3/4", 13/16", 7/8" are just numbers and don't mean anything because of the influence the shooter has on the riser. Everyone torques the bow whether we think we do or not. Center shot can be set wherever but it doesn't have to stay there to make the arrows hit where we want them to hit.

Couldn't agree more. Although when someone is dealing with contact issues 13/16 is a good place to start.

I know several guys that tune by the cams only and do a damn good job of it. Personally i set the centershot to 13/16, use the cams to get it close then fine tune with the rest, but it is generally as close to 13/16 as you can really measure when finished.