[Cameron11]

Like it says I have a Performx 3D right hand. 62 lbs set at 29 inch draw. Best tear I can get is centershot at 7/8. LAS 1 full turn moving string to left. Cable guard is at factory setting. Rest is a hamskea hybrid hunter micro with the guard removed. Arrows are 350 spine 100 grain point series 23. I can rotate cock feather around to different spots with no change to tear so don’t suspect contact. Tho I haven’t checked with powder. Shims on cams appear to be thin on left side thick on right side when looking from back of bow. Cam lean is both cams lean into riser. Arrow on top Cam tip is on string at nock point. Bottom cam point is not quite to string

Thanks in advance

 

[Wood]

If you have a tail left tear, you need to move the rest to the RIGHT. or twist left yoke(s).

 

[Cameron11]

Have tried rest from 3/4 to 1” with no success. Bow does not have yokes.

 

[ontarget7]

Grip tape will generally help when you have left tears on a slick anodized finish with target bows.
It would be my first suggestion, then reassess.
I will say a left tear you can come in on centershot from 7/8 to help as well.


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[Cyberone]

You may have to move shims.

 

[drew154]

If you have the rest dead center, you can move the cable guard to fix that as well


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[bowman1964]

I have tuned many of these bows already and it is very simple to tune. First step is move everything back to center (rest and LAS). Standing behind bow you will need to move 1 thin shim from left side of cam to the right side, LAS will work for the last 1/8" of tuning. When setting center shot height I use a tape measure and measure limb tip to limb tip and mark string dead center between limb tips, that is where the nock will be set. Adjust height of rest from there, hope this helps.

 

[Cameron11]

I have tuned many of these bows already and it is very simple to tune. First step is move everything back to center (rest and LAS). Standing behind bow you will need to move 1 thin shim from left side of cam to the right side, LAS will work for the last 1/8" of tuning. When setting center shot height I use a tape measure and measure limb tip to limb tip and mark string dead center between limb tips, that is where the nock will be set. Adjust height of rest from there, hope this helps.

BIG thanks to bowman1964. Got it straightened out now on to barseshaft!!

 

[pabuck]

I have tuned many of these bows already and it is very simple to tune. First step is move everything back to center (rest and LAS). Standing behind bow you will need to move 1 thin shim from left side of cam to the right side, LAS will work for the last 1/8" of tuning. When setting center shot height I use a tape measure and measure limb tip to limb tip and mark string dead center between limb tips, that is where the nock will be set. Adjust height of rest from there, hope this helps.

What did you set your centershot at, 3/4”?

 

[nccrutch]

Tagged

 

[gpace21]

Tagged

 

[Macdoc18]

need a bit more info as how to determine the center of the las and what is the center for the rest please

 

[Macdoc18]

After working with my LAS system for several weeks , I am beginning to suspect there is more hype than reality to the usefulness of this system.Using laser I am unable to show any influence of the LAS on the position of the nock relative to the center shot at near full draw. Maybe I am doing something wrong

 

[shooter34]

After working with my LAS system for several weeks , I am beginning to suspect there is more hype than reality to the usefulness of this system.Using laser I am unable to show any influence of the LAS on the position of the nock relative to the center shot at near full draw. Maybe I am doing something wrong

I would set the LAS back to center and SHIM the cams!

 

[Macdoc18]

I would set the LAS back to center and SHIM the cams!

I have heard this before . However is it possible that cam shimming is just a bandaid for mismatched limbs?

 

[Macdoc18]

Just to elaborate a bit. It is possible to get all the cam lean out by shimming the cam over till limb deflection differences are neutralized BUT that might not place the cam in the center of the riser or aligned with center shot. Isn't it better to insist the Manufacturer provide a set of limbs whose deflections are balanced or tuned for the bow? After all, these bows do cost near $1000.00

 

[Padgett]

Of course in any bow you do not want to have excessive cam lean and if you did have it you should do the work to get it within a acceptable amount.

With that said you need to stop worrying about cam lean in your bow, getting rid of the cam lean should not be your focus and I can tell that you are allowing it to influence your decisions and it is hurting your cause.

Bow tuning is all about the power stroke of the bow, there are two basic types of tuning methods. Method one which is more old school is to leave the power stroke alone and moving the arrow rest until you can get the arrow rest directly in front of the power stroke and find your good arrow flight. Method two which is the newest approach to tuning a bow is to leave the arrow rest alone and use the methods that a particular bow has to move the power stroke of the bow left or right until it matches up to the arrow rest and gives you good arrow flight.

With method 2 you have these tricks:

1. Shimming: Shimming is basically moving the cams left or right which moves the entire bow string left or right therefore moving the powerstroke of the bow.

2. Yoke tuning: Yoke tuning leans the cams and by doing this you again move the bow string left or right and are moving the powerstroke of the bow.

3. pse las: This trick moves the entire limb pocket and therefore moves the power stroke of the bow.

With your pse you do not have yokes so you aren't going to be yoke tuning, but you do have two other options to consider. The basic rule is to move the cam in the direction of the bad tear so you now have two tricks to achieve this movement.

I don't own a pse with the new cams, I shoot a 2014 supra max. But I do believe in starting out a bow in a neutral setting, so with your pse I would get the cams back to normal settings with the shims and then I would leave them alone right there and shoot my bare shaft through paper at 6 or so feet and move the d-loop up and down until I found the sweetspot where there is no vertical tear, then move the las system in the direction of the bad left or right tear and see if this has a good effect or not. If it shrinks down the tear 100% then great and you are done, if it does it partially then you can move on to shimming the cams to finish off the job.

My only issues are that I have never messed with the las so once you get to its max adjustment does it end up being stupid looking with issues or is it good to go in that maxed out setting.

Second issue, make sure you come to full draw and settle into the anchor just like making a nice shot and then look up at the top cam and see if you are twisting the riser so that the bow string comes off the cam at a funny angle, tuning around your poor grip of the bow takes so much more freaking effort and this issue is so easily fixed. Get the bow string coming straight off the cams and your tuning will go so much smoother.

 

[sneak1413]

Just to elaborate a bit. It is possible to get all the cam lean out by shimming the cam over till limb deflection differences are neutralized BUT that might not place the cam in the center of the riser or aligned with center shot. Isn't it better to insist the Manufacturer provide a set of limbs whose deflections are balanced or tuned for the bow? After all, these bows do cost near $1000.00

The limbs are already not the same to help with unequal load on the axle. With the cams centered in the limbs and with all the limbs exactly the same deflection. You would get BAD cam lean to the right because there is still more load on the right side of the cam than the left and you have a cable guard pulling the cables to the right. PSE already puts slightly stiffer limbs on the right side of right handed bows to help with this. By shimming the cams you are micro tuning to balance out the loads in the cams, cables, axles, and limbs thus taking nearly all of the cam lean out of the bow or inducing a small amount to make the bow tune with your grip. PSE does a better job of this than most manufacturers do IMHO. The only time the cams should be in the center of the riser is if the cam is completely balanced in its cable tracks with equal tracks on the left and right side of the cam and the bow has to have a shoot through cable system with no cable slide/roller or a cable slide/roller on both sides of the string. Because the Evolve cam has 2 cable tracks on the right and one on the left side of the cam it helps to distribute the load of the cables more equally but it does not still make them equal. By doing this you will usually have to have the cams slightly left of center unless you have a pretty substantial deflection difference between your right and left limbs.

 

[Padgett]

Years ago before yoke tuning became popular I had a destroyer 350 and a Specialist target bow, I set out on a journey to get rid of all cam lean and learn how to tune my bow to that setting.

I did it!!!!!!

It took me a good two weeks of work with a bow press and trying tons of approaches and in the end I figured out a simple trick that allowed me to do it rather easily. I twisted my yokes until my bow had the least amount of cam lean from start to finish. To do this I drew back on a draw board about half way and that is where I made my cams perfect with zero cam lean. At rest and at full draw they had a slight amount of lean on each side of that half way setting.

Now for the cool part that took me two weeks to figure out. ''TOURQUE INDICATOR"

I have a simple 5 minute way to make a little torque indicator that tapes to my riser and I can see it through my peep when aiming, So I simply set it to my normal grip of the bow and shot my bare shafts through paper and there was a tear. Then I slightly torqued the bow just a little and shot through paper and found that on one side it got way worse and on the other side it vanished and there it was my perfect tear, so I simply moved the torque indicator a little bit and lined it up with that grip setting and locked it down. I could get bullet holes out to 20 yards with bare shafts easily with very little torque indicator adjustments from there to really nail down its setting. Within a few days that grip was easy to produce every shot and the indicator was my instant verification that I was right there as I hit anchor and settled in.

That method for tuning a bowtech was only used for less than a year because BaldyHunter posed his destroyer 350 tuning thread for yoke tuning and once I read it and tried it I had found a much easier method to reproduce and I became a yoke tuner.