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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1) For Intermediate to Advanced archers. What factors in order of importance do you find most important in eliminating lefts and right shots?

2) What are the causes of group movement when the sight has not been changed? Example: Shooting 1 1/2" consistant groups at 30 yards but one four arrow group may be high in the spot at 10 o'clock but the next series may be low in the spot at 5 o'clock.

3) What regimen have you found best to eliminate ANY movement of the bow hand at the shot?

In depth info on these three topics could help a lot of people including myself.

Thanks,
Jbird
 

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1) Reference alignment. (Scope centred in peep for compound, string blur lined up with riser for recurve)
Allowing for wind.
Canting
Torque. (This one has never really been a problem that I've noticed - probably just me...)

2) Recurve - finger pressure. Whatever ratio of top:middle:ring you go for, keep it constant, don't go from (say) 25:50:25 to 40:50:10. Haven't a clue for compound.

JMHO
 

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IMO..

1 grip grip grip, one of the most important things and draw weight. being over bowed is a killer on groups. Find a place to grip the bow that will not cause torque. Depending on the brand you my find replacing the grip with a low wrist type grip will help.

2 Could be punching, any number of form errors including anchor point, Also check that it is not the arrow that is causing it. I have in the past had arrows that would shoot a 1" high and found that for what ever reason it was lighter than the others.

3 Shoot straight arm, I find it next to impossible to be consistent use a bent bow arm. I find straight arm and pulling hard in to the wall gives be a repeatable anchor and has vastly improved my scores.

Roger
 

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1. Make sure your d/l is right - too short is just as bad or possibly worse that too long.
2. Not sure, but I would look at the height of your hand in the grip or possibly creeping.
3. Just relax and take about 2-3 deep breaths before each shot, releasing the tension in my shoulders with each breath. Don't fight the pin @ full draw - use as little muscle input as possible. Best to have your body aligned to the target so that you don't have to move the bow to the target at full draw - have it where you need it for the shot. Also double check your draw length - too short causes a lot of pin shake and possibly severe left misses for RH archers.
 

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I ran in to this problem also,what I found for me was this :
1)Grip.......once I had the bow gripped,I found that turning my hand away from the bow about another inch truley gave me a nuetral grip.

2)Pulling the release.........I wasn't pulling straight back all the time.

3)Follow through......I wasn't staring down the x through the end of the shot every time.

#1&3 were my biggest faults in my left-rights,and probably helped more than anything else.These are things that are supposed to happen subconsiously,but I'm finding that I have to have a purpose in my practice sessions,wheather its a recap of my shot sequence or something else that needs work.
Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good Input

I know that I sometimes don't pull straight back on the release and I think my follow thru goes left before it should in the natural culmination of the shot. I think I may have my draw length a little too long yet. The bow has to go straight at the target before it drifts left after the shot. I am waiting for a new string to get here and I am going to try shortening things up just a little.
Jbird
 

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1) For Intermediate to Advanced archers. What factors in order of importance do you find most important in eliminating lefts and right shots?

2) What are the causes of group movement when the sight has not been changed? Example: Shooting 1 1/2" consistant groups at 30 yards but one four arrow group may be high in the spot at 10 o'clock but the next series may be low in the spot at 5 o'clock.

3) What regimen have you found best to eliminate ANY movement of the bow hand at the shot?

1. DRAW LENGTH, Peep site centering, head cant. DRAW LENGTH, PUSHING with the bow arm. Quit shooting with a bent elbow if you are doing that. NOT SUPER LOCKED, but not bent like a door hinge either.

2. DRAW LENGTH, peep site centering, PEEP HEIGHT adjustment. Set the peep at 50 or maybe 55 yards (especially if shooting a LOT of American rounds or 70 or 90 meters!) If I were shooting a LOT of FITA, I'd likely set my peep height at 50 or 70 meters.

3. DRAW LENGTH, trying to QUIT PUSHING with that bowarm, if you are doing that. That is the one major flaw in my form right now (thanks to Pro1 for discovering this), and it is killing my shooting. Somehow, even tho my DRAW LENGTH is perfect, I PUSH and don't PULL, even though I think I'm pulling.

If I PULL, then there is no shaking, the site is as solid as a rock, and the shot goes into the middle of the middle all by itself. HUGE explosion and surprise release every single time. Used to be able to do this 95 to 98% of the shots - - now, however, I"m lucky to do it 50% - - but at least I have a goal to get back to.

4. DRAW LENGTH..


field14:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Draw Length

I get the feeling that F14 thinks that the problems I have been fighting can be traced to draw length.;) LOL. I appreaciate the input and I think he is right. I am not pushing with my bow arm because I have been taught to pull only. I really don't think I could push anyway because I am stretched out to the point I can't push. I think that may be pushing shots to the left. Feels like maybe 1/4" shorter may let the bow go straight at the target instead of pushing left. I also have a 1/2" long loop and some have said that is too short for best accuracy. My sight picture is pretty steady and I think that will improve with the 1/4" shorter draw. With my draw length over extended, I think it is aggrivating the tendency to drop the bow arm. Lots of good stuff to work on.
Jbird
 

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Draw length& F-14

:D Kinda got impression too.........maybe you should check your draw length.:p
Jerry
 

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# 1 .
i have to agree with the draw length for lefts and rights. but i had an inconsistant grip . so i put a mark on the back of my hand to line up with the arrow rest.
when this was in alignment i knew my grip was the same on each shot. now that i have been shooting like this for 1 1/2 years i no longer need the mark.

#2
over aiming and sight alignment with peep

#3
i believe that your bow hand should move when the shot goes off , but the bow must move first . this is again back to grip. when your bow arm is low locked and the bow arm is straight and not tense .
it is natural for the bow to move forward at the shot and then for your arm to move forward also at explosion.
the only way to see this is to have high speed video done. last year i had this done at the Nationals and its a great way to see the bow move forward at explosion and your grip not close and for your bow arm to move forward.
even though i dont push at all my bow hand and arm move forward at explosion. then i just make sure i finish at the same place each time.
Shoot Strong
Tony
 
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