I'll second Vipers opinion, it's very unlikely you will notice the difference of the weight of the fletching.Forgiving my vanes snafu, and assuming I did want to split hairs regarding minute weight differences, how do you determine the correct amount to compensate for the fletchings, if it is not a direct equivalence? I don't have a scale sensitive enough to weigh 18 grains of electrical tape, so I can only go by manufacturers listed weights and attempt to compensate after the fact.
I bareshaft tuned with 100s. I was wondering if I should switch to 125s for fletched arrows. That was my original idea. The consensus seems to be: don't bother.Neat that you made this thread as it's something I have been thinking about.
My current arrows were perfectly bare shaft tuned to use 125 grain tips. I recently switched my 125 grain tips for 150s, making an arrow for a bareshaft test very slightly weak. I use four inch feathers, the feathers plus the glue is like 12-15 grains. Even though the bareshaft test tells me I have a better tune with 125s, I swear it looks like they perform slightly better with the 150s when they are fletched, but maybe it's all in my head. Maybe instead of trying to make a bareshaft perfectly straight, we should aim to make them very slightly weak? Because if they are perfect, once the fletchings are added now they are very slightly stiff.
And if anything, wouldn't a slightly weak arrow be preferable to a slightly stiff arrow anyway? Seems like it would be. The arrow flexing around the riser more ought to eliminate some form variables more since it's making a little less contact with your riser. Can't say I'm right, but it seems to make sense to me.
I never bothered but recently decided why not, and tried it. Now I'm debating with myself because it seems they fly better, but a little part of me is nagging that they shouldn't be like that.I bareshaft tuned with 100s. I was wondering if I should switch to 125s for fletched arrows. That was my original idea. The consensus seems to be: don't bother.