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Discussion Starter #1
For those of you that have shimmed your black series bows, what shim combo did you use?

I have a bareshaft 1” nock right tear at 3 ft. And 8 inch POI left at 20. I need to shim to the right but I’m hearing different combos from those who have done it before.

Did you use a large (.30) on the left and a small (.10) on the right on both cams for a right tear, just shim one cam? Etc. interested to hear before I go down this rabbit hole.
 

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gotta use shims as a set. keep the overall net spacing the same, you are just moving the can around in the small area to get it to shoot the way you want.

Not to be rude, but have you tried other things before jumping to Shims? Its just a big investment of time and energy, when there are alot of things that can impact your end results. Often times, people just shim one cam to get the result they want. Usually the top.

flexis guard adjustment?

Bow all set to factory specs, ATA, BH, DW#???

slight movements in the arrow rest? (I know you see alot of "perfect centershot" BS on here, really there is a decent range where all is good. If factory is 3/4" you should be fine up to 1/8" on either side of that. I bet most people have more measurement error between their tape and the lines, the angle they hold their head and the diameter of their arrow.

arrow spine? shooting heavier/ lighter points to see if you are getting the same result? twisting up your nocks and seeing if you get that result with your arrow in different orientations?

letting someone else shoot it and seeing if they get the same results? I learned the hard way that my left hitting bareshafts were a product of my fat palms not being oriented correctly on the bow.

what spacers are in there now? It might be as simple as flipping your current ones around.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
gotta use shims as a set. keep the overall net spacing the same, you are just moving the can around in the small area to get it to shoot the way you want.

Not to be rude, but have you tried other things before jumping to Shims? Its just a big investment of time and energy, when there are alot of things that can impact your end results. Often times, people just shim one cam to get the result they want. Usually the top.

flexis guard adjustment?

Bow all set to factory specs, ATA, BH, DW#???

slight movements in the arrow rest? (I know you see alot of "perfect centershot" BS on here, really there is a decent range where all is good. If factory is 3/4" you should be fine up to 1/8" on either side of that. I bet most people have more measurement error between their tape and the lines, the angle they hold their head and the diameter of their arrow.

arrow spine? shooting heavier/ lighter points to see if you are getting the same result? twisting up your nocks and seeing if you get that result with your arrow in different orientations?

letting someone else shoot it and seeing if they get the same results? I learned the hard way that my left hitting bareshafts were a product of my fat palms not being oriented correctly on the bow.

what spacers are in there now? It might be as simple as flipping your current ones around.
Yes. Bow is in spec. Flexis tightened all the way down. Experimented with different grips (I have a logic CT5 that tunes perfectly and the grips are the same). Two different arrow spines and multiple DW adjustments, moved the rest a significant amount and it only tunes with the rest at about 1 1/8. I’ve exhausted all options before shimming.
 

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My bow required shims. My only complaint about my black 3. It annoys me that I had to go to the archery shop and have them do it.
 
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