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Pro Shop Advice To Change Draw Length...YIKES!!

1229 Views 12 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  pbuck
Took the grip off of my Maxxis and my draw was a tad long so I stopped by a local shop this morning to see if they had a set of 3A mods. They didn't but the guy said to just move my draw stop down a hole and I'd do the same as changing the mods! I said OK and thanked him for the advice then left. Apparently he doesn't have a clue and I wonder what other bits of info like that he's passed along????

Still looking for mods cause the next closest shop is 55 miles away. Anyone who can help me out?
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I watched a guy trying to broadhead tune at a local shop and the top cam on his Hoyt (which was purchased at that shop about two or three years prior) was a solid 1/4" to 3/8" ******ed. You could easily see how far out of time it was. I informed him of this and told him he should also put new strings on it while he was at it since it had the origional strings, which were looking a little haggered. So I sold strings and a tune up for the shop. The guy at the shop looks at it and says "as long as the string is between these two marks its timed" and gives him back the bow.

I had no problems ordering him a string from my string maker and putting it together and timing it and tuning it in my basement and pocketing a little profit (something I almost never do-because if I steal from the pro shop the shop won't be there for long). But pro shops that bad deserve to go out of business, in my opinion (and they also didn't seem interested in making money, either.)
 

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If you move the draw stop peg down one setting you would take the cam rotation severely out of time. If you move the peg down and retime the cams you will reduce the draw length slightly and you will also reduce the let off. The bow would become a bit more aggressive. Some guys are doing this intentionally to achieve nearer 65% let off with the fuel cams.
 

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I would never tell someone to do that.

It's all fun and games till someones bow gets locked up.
 

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A lot of people were doing the same thing with the Vulcan when it came out as well as the AlphaMax. Actually, now that I think about it, especially the AlphaMax.

Not so much for changing the draw length, but for reducing the let-off. You'll have to time your cams again, but it won't hurt you or the bow.
 

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I've learned that you have to ask questions to the technician to get an idea about his philosophy. Archery is almost like church, you want to go hang out with like-minded people, or all you do is fuss and argue, or harbor resentment toward those who don't think like you. Having an open mind and not telling the other person they are wrong will help you get along, but you may not get your bow tuned the way you want it which is why I learned to do all my own tuning, and also why I go to church by myself!! I will shoot with others, but I let my scores do the talking.
 

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Yeah, I stopped in at a local shop today to see if they would put a half twist in my string to line my peep back up. He said since I didn't buy the bow from him, he would have to charge me $50 labor!!!! Just to put my bow in a press and put a half twist in my string! $50!!!!! I will NEVER stop at that shop again!!
 

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x2! I have had this happen to me before! I also live a good hour to hour and a half one way away from any decent shops. I had purchased a used Elite, and the cam did not fit me just right. I made the trip to the closest Elite dealer and Instead of changing the cams for me they decided It would be alot easier to play with the draw stop untill It fit me. After making 2 or 3 adjustments and make ME be the one to draw the bow back It locked up at full draw. When I went to let the bow down the string didnt do anything but go fully limp like the bow had been pressed! Luckally It didnt hurt anyone, but It was a very close call!

I would never tell someone to do that.

It's all fun and games till someones bow gets locked up.
 

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x2! I have had this happen to me before! I also live a good hour to hour and a half one way away from any decent shops. I had purchased a used Elite, and the cam did not fit me just right. I made the trip to the closest Elite dealer and Instead of changing the cams for me they decided It would be alot easier to play with the draw stop untill It fit me. After making 2 or 3 adjustments and make ME be the one to draw the bow back It locked up at full draw. When I went to let the bow down the string didnt do anything but go fully limp like the bow had been pressed! Luckally It didnt hurt anyone, but It was a very close call!
He was not talking about binary cams it done all the time and its done with some binary cams. I have to do it on every bow guess what my draw isnt a even half inch.
 

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Ok....BOW shop is a better term here. He just sells bows so I guess Pro would be a stretch. To be fair, he was the shop owner not the bow tech. but he shouldn't be giving out crazy tech info If he's not qualified. He said he had an AM32 he did it to because it was too long and it didn't affect the performance at all???? There was no mention of re-timing or syncing he just moved the stop. OoooKay!

Anyway...This is the reason I've done my own work for a LONG time.
 
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