[TerryH12]

What process do you guys use for tuning a bow. Do you rough sight it, walk back tune, then paper tune? Are these in order or out of order?

 

[nuts&bolts]

What process do you guys use for tuning a bow. Do you rough sight it, walk back tune, then paper tune? Are these in order or out of order?

If you are highly skilled,
have checked that the arrow is close to the correct spine with software,
have solid form,
confirmed that the tiller is even,
and that the cams are timed,
and that you have no fletching or arrow shaft contact,

then paper tuning can quickly help you set the nock point height
and
can quickly help you set the arrow rest center shot.

Otherwise,
paper tuning will tell you that the arrow flight is flawed,
and then you have many things to consider as to cause.


Check your 2nd axis on the sight with a level and a vise for the bow.

Check the 3rd axis on your sight, using a string hanging from a hook on the ceiling.

Fire bareshafts into a target which will preserve the angle of penetration
(layered block target) (solid foam target) (straw bale at the range)
where the bullseye is set at your shoulder height...

the bareshaft has zero steering correction because it has no vanes

nock high? lower the nocking point
nock low? raise the nocking point
keep adjusting the nocking point until the bare shaft sticks in the target level


Adjust centershot and sight ring position (left right adjustments)
using walk back tuning

Use a draw board to get preliminary timing on your cams (synchronization)
Then, use creep tuning for final adjustments to cam timing

Powder the last 6-inches of the arrow shaft and the fletching
to check for vane contact or arrow shaft contact

Rotate the nocks, to get fletching clearance.


If you are highly skilled,
then try bare shaft tuning, the complete procedure
as described by Deezlin.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=363767&referrerid=22477
(see post #4)

 

[Myk]

I set it centered (GKF center shot tool) and flat (eyeball it).
Shoot at 15 yards and set a pin. Go back to 20 yards and fine tune the pin. If arrow flight looks good I go back to 15 yards and try a fixed blade broadhead and tune that to the field point impact.
If all things go good that's all I have to do with tuning other than possibly broadhead tuning again at longer ranges.

If thing don't go so good, meaning I can't get it to broadhead tune I hit the paper rack and try to correct the tears with my form to rule that out first, because it's usually either a form problem or a contact problem.

We all find what works best for us.
I don't hunt with fixed blade broadheads but that's what I find works best for me tuning so I keep them for that purpose.

I can't stand bareshaft and have never been able to get it to do anything for me except frustrate me and maybe break a few arrows.

Do you rough sight it, walk back tune, then paper tune?

If that's your approach you would paper tune, sight in (if you're not experience with instinctive shooting or roughing in off your paper tears start up around 5yds) and then walk back.
Paper only gets your arrow coming off flat. Think of it as your center gauge and bow square. It's not necessarily your final tune.