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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, sorry for my ignorance, but I'm new to bowhunting and would really like some recommendations in regards to the 2 Blade 100grain Rage Hypodermic +P Broadheads. Right now I have a PSE Stinger set at 51# with a 29inch drawlength. My arrows are Carbon Express predators 4560 at 29.5 inches in length. Is this an OK set up for white tail deer? I'm doing research but am finding it hard to pin what the basics of a good setup should be with these heads. Your help would be much appreciated.
 

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You really need more energy to shoot that broadhead as effectively as would be most desirable. If you switch to a Magnus stinger 4 blade, or Simmons Mako, or similar design. You will have done all you can do to improve the effectiveness of your rig. with just the broadhead.

You could probably go a good while not having a problem if you stick to rib shot broadside tucked behind the shoulder. And work fine. Best thing you can do with around 55 ft lbs and less as general advice anyway.

Your arrow is fairly heavy per inch at better than 9 grains per inch. And if you have a standard insert in it your front weight will be low. With one of the broadheads described it will work.

But I would eventually move to an arrow that weighs more around 7.5 to 8.2 grains per inch,put about a 50 grain insert in it for a total weight of around 400 to 420grains, equipped with one of the cut on contact heads and never look back.

I would also consider a .340 spine with that long arrow.

If you used a Gold tip Velocity arrow in .340 spine cut to 29.5, and put the GT 50 grain insert in it, with three standard blazer vanes and a nock it would look something like this
Your approx. arrow weight is: 418.9 grains.
Your arrow FOC is: 13.3%

You could also use a smaller diameter arrow with about the same specs if you wanted.
 

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As long as you keep your shots 20yds and under I think you will be fine. The bows today do produce more power at lower weight then the days of old. Although Crowely brings up a good point on arrow weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You really need more energy to shoot that broadhead as effectively as would be most desirable. If you switch to a Magnus stinger 4 blade, or Simmons Mako, or similar design. You will have done all you can do to improve the effectiveness of your rig. with just the broadhead.

You could probably go a good while not having a problem if you stick to rib shot broadside tucked behind the shoulder. And work fine. Best thing you can do with around 55 ft lbs and less as general advice anyway.

Your arrow is fairly heavy per inch at better than 9 grains per inch. And if you have a standard insert in it your front weight will be low. With one of the broadheads described it will work.

But I would eventually move to an arrow that weighs more around 7.5 to 8.2 grains per inch,put about a 50 grain insert in it for a total weight of around 400 to 420grains, equipped with one of the cut on contact heads and never look back.

I would also consider a .340 spine with that long arrow.

If you used a Gold tip Velocity arrow in .340 spine cut to 29.5, and put the GT 50 grain insert in it, with three standard blazer vanes and a nock it would look something like this
Your approx. arrow weight is: 418.9 grains.
Your arrow FOC is: 13.3%

You could also use a smaller diameter arrow with about the same specs if you wanted.
That's good information to know! I was looking at the Magnus Stingers, but unfortunately it is hard to come by in northern Ontario. Even online the shipping is crazy. I'll check out that Simmons Makko for sure! Thank you for your reply I appreciate it!
 

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Now, if I were to up my # would this change much in regards to what I have? Let's say I set the bow to 60, would I see different results?
With a 340 spine arrow you could adjust you're weight up some and still be in spine to maybe a little light. The increased velocity would help. At 60 you could also move up to an arrow more around 450 to 500 grains, which is good.

As I have gotten older and 60lbs hurts the joints, I miss it, I have learned how to maximize 50 to 55 lbs to be effective. But I would shoot 60 tomorrow if I could shoot a lot and not hurt. But it is more important to me to shoot a lot, thousands of arrows a year. I could turn up to 60 just to hunt, but since I shoot all year and tune everything this way I hunt that way.

A higher IBO bow someday will help, the PSE singer is around 310 fps IBO, okay. But at a long draw, a 330 IBo or better with a sharp cut on contact and 450 grain arrow, even with 50 to 55 lbs,you can go hunt whatever you want , and with a good shot expect to kill stuff without much reservation. Besides the heaviest stuff. It's always about a good shot though, a good shot is a good shot and a bad shot is a bad shot. Good shots almost always work out good, and a bad shot ...well...you get lucky sometimes. Mostly , if you make too many bad shots, it just makes you sick. Stay within you're limitations, shoot and shoot so you have a lot of confidence, focus when the moment comes, stay calm, focus, do what you have been doing all year in practice. Get the range right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
With a 340 spine arrow you could adjust you're weight up some and still be in spine to maybe a little light. The increased velocity would help. At 60 you could also move up to an arrow more around 450 to 500 grains, which is good.

As I have gotten older and 60lbs hurts the joints, I miss it, I have learned how to maximize 50 to 55 lbs to be effective. But I would shoot 60 tomorrow if I could shoot a lot and not hurt. But it is more important to me to shoot a lot, thousands of arrows a year. I could turn up to 60 just to hunt, but since I shoot all year and tune everything this way I hunt that way.

A higher IBO bow someday will help, the PSE singer is around 310 fps IBO, okay. But at a long draw, a 330 IBo or better with a sharp cut on contact and 450 grain arrow, even with 50 to 55 lbs,you can go hunt whatever you want , and with a good shot expect to kill stuff without much reservation. Besides the heaviest stuff. It's always about a good shot though, a good shot is a good shot and a bad shot is a bad shot. Good shots almost always work out good, and a bad shot ...well...you get lucky sometimes. Mostly , if you make too many bad shots, it just makes you sick. Stay within you're limitations, shoot and shoot so you have a lot of confidence, focus when the moment comes, stay calm, focus, do what you have been doing all year in practice. Get the range right.
Ok, that makes alot of sense. I'll stick with what I have for the season and seek to try new things next year. I'll still look into those broadheads you suggested as it doesn't require any change to the setup. 💯 % thank you very much for both your detailed replies! It truly helps me alot.
 

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No one is going to argue a fixed head generally will penetrate better, however these small cutting mech head penetrate really well.

I shot a bunch of deer at 50lbs with a shorter draw length and a pretty light arrow, 375 grains. Most with an old g5 tekan, very similar in operation to the rage. Results were excellent, many blew through like the deer was not even there, one cut the off side leg in half on exit and a full pass through at 38yds.

Put it in the ribs and it's game over.

If you have not bought heads yet any fixed blade will work, if you already have the plus p let em rip.
 

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If you change to coc head you will need to tune your bow for them or at the very least shoot them and resight for point of impact. At this point I would stick with what you have. Not that I disagree with Crowely he is spot on. But the hunting season is now and you really need some time to make adjustments if you go to coc heads like Magnus. Which is what I use by the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No one is going to argue a fixed head generally will penetrate better, however these small cutting mech head penetrate really well.

I shot a bunch of deer at 50lbs with a shorter draw length and a pretty light arrow, 375 grains. Most with an old g5 tekan, very similar in operation to the rage. Results were excellent, many blew through like the deer was not even there, one cut the off side leg in half on exit and a full pass through at 38yds.

Put it in the ribs and it's game over.

If you have not bought heads yet any fixed blade will work, if you already have the plus p let em rip.
They are in fact purchased, so I'll abide. I think this gives me a great excuse to experiment next year and find out what works for me. As you said, I have them, and hunting season is now in full swing so I'll stick to what I have. All in all, I'm just excited to get out there and to know I will have success in my current setup is a big confidence booster. Looking forward to experiment next year too. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you change to coc head you will need to tune your bow for them or at the very least shoot them and resight for point of impact. At this point I would stick with what you have. Not that I disagree with Crowely he is spot on. But the hunting season is now and you really need some time to make adjustments if you go to coc heads like Magnus. Which is what I use by the way.
Right on, I'll take your advice and stick to what I have. Thanks!
 

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Agree you should have no problem with your specs with a 1.5 cut mechanical broadhead if your bow is tuned. I have shot several with those specs with a bowmadness 36 single cam. I can't remember one that wasn't a passthrough rage 1.5" 2 blade bh.
 

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Imo the hypo plus p is the best rage head. Shot a doe last weekend and zipped through her like when I shot fixed but left a good hole and she only went 50 yards. Your setup is fine for the plus p. I think many shooting a large range of poundage would be better served buying the plus p over the big 2 inch wedge cuts. They would see pass thrus far more regularly. I like regular hypos too but am only going to shoot does with the remaining ones I have. I have switched to plus p as my primary head. I shoot 60 lbs 27.5 inch draw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Imo the hypo plus p is the best rage head. Shot a doe last weekend and zipped through her like when I shot fixed but left a good hole and she only went 50 yards. Your setup is fine for the plus p. I think many shooting a large range of poundage would be better served buying the plus p over the big 2 inch wedge cuts. They would see pass thrus far more regularly. I like regular hypos too but am only going to shoot does with the remaining ones I have. I have switched to plus p as my primary head. I shoot 60 lbs 27.5 inch draw.
Awesome man, thank you for the confirmation. I just really wanted to make sure I was going about this right as it's my first season. Appreciate the information!
 
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