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purfect form?!? post your pictures to help others.

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I thought it woulld be cool to study everyones form for people like me to learn from, I am in the middle of shortening my form from 29 to 28.5 and also going from 80% let off to 65% let off on my Drenalin LD after getting an A7 and seeing the difference, i will post mine after i get back home monday,Thanks for helping fellow archers. Steve
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Please

93 veiws in 1hour,...theres got to be some pictures out there we can study.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Size Matters

here is mine
I know mine looks long even to me thats why i am waiting on 28.5 came instead of 29 to try to close up my stance, I just started back shooting last year after taking an 11year break only to discover the technolegy and seeing that you dont have to shoot 31inch draw to getthe speed, thats something changing from 31 to 28.5 with a 72.5 arm spand
 

· (aka lug nut)
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here is mine
Hello pooter:

Please post a head to toe photo, as well,
so we can see the feet, ankles, knees...
all the way up to your head.


There are reasons to put the ankles and the knees and the hips
all in a vertical line. The reason is to get the center of your hips/belly button/
button on the jeans DEAD CENTER between the feet.

When the button on the jeans is DEAD CENTER between the feet,
then the weight is even on BOTH feet.

Once you have the bottom half of your body "fixed", balanced, centered...

then,
we can start to get the upper body parts "fixed", balanced, centered.


Now,
it is, of course, POSSIBLE to shoot off balance,
you can take the extra time to train yourself to shoot with MORE weight on the rear foot (foot farthest away from the target wall)...

but, you will get to the next level of your shooting much easier, quicker,
if you shoot from a balanced body parts position.

Your choice, of course.


So,
the upper body.


You want the two shoulder joints to form a line
that is always parallel to the arrow, when you are at full draw.

If da arrow is level,
then you want both shoulder joints level.

If da arrow is aiming down negative 10 degrees,
you want the two shoulder joints to be negative 10 degrees.


Since you cannot SEE yourself at full draw,
then it's a training thing to learn the FEEL of keeping the shoulders
always parallel to the arrow, when at full draw.

Draw the arrow to full draw,
with the ARROW dead LEVEL,
when you are standing DEAD VERTICAL...

then,
move the entire upper body as ONE SOLID PIECE OF STEEL,
when you aim for the x-ring.



So,
back to the upper body.

Holding steady is about what muscles to squeeze (just the correct ones),
and how to relax ALL THE UN-NECESSARY ones.

So,
what happens when you squeeze MORE muscles than necessary?

Answer: you don't hold as steady as you COULD.


If you would like a good reference book,
that talks about what muscle to squeeze at full draw,
and what other muscles to relax AFTER you get to full draw...

then, pick up a copy of CORE ARCHERY by Larry Wise.

The trick is you gotta use lots of muscles to pull the arrow back to full draw.


Well,
AFTER you get to full draw,
it's natural to want to CONTINUE to squeeze all the same muscles
to hold it at full draw.


Ever have a PANIC STOP in your car?

You nearly jam the brake pedal through the floor of the car...
tires screeching...
tires smoking...
you finally get the CAR to STOP and you miss the car in front of you by INCHES...


Ever notice how AFTER the car has stopped,
nothing is moving anymore...

and your leg is still PUSHING THE BRAKE PEDAL through the floor?



Same with pulling an arrow to full draw.


Gotta train your self AFTER you get to full draw,
to relax the fingers on your release handle..

relax the wrist...
try to relax all the muscles between the wrist and release elbow tip
try to relax the bicep (upper arm muscle on release side)
try to stretch the elbow straight back using just the shoulder blade muscle

IF you can do this, you will actually feel your wrist stretch a little.

Ok,
so much for the theory/mental concepts.

Now, onto example pictures.
 

· (aka lug nut)
Joined
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54,880 Posts
This is your photo.




Can't see what is happening with your knees and ankles,
so not sure if your hips/belly button/button on the jeans is
dead center between your shoes or not.


So,
the goal is to get the legs much more vertical,
and to get the button on your jeans DEAD CENTER between da shoes.

More like this fellow.



Here is how he started, and then experimented to end up where he is now.





http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f...eRebel/YankeeRebelFormBefore28DLandhandle.jpg





Here is how he looks now,
after he dropped the size of the cam nearly 2-inches.




I understand that he is shooting 300s on a regular basis.
He has come a long ways and is now a very advanced shooter.



So,
notice how the legs are vertical
which makes the weight balanced on both feet.

Notice that the button on the jeans is DEAD CENTER between the shoes.


Also,
notice how in the BEFORE photos,
the center of his neck / adams apple in the middle of the neck
was way behind the button on his jeans.

This is shifting the weight of the upper half of your body
over the rear foot.

Out of balance condition.

When your upper body is leaning over your rear foot,
it is IMPOSSIBLE to use "back tension" correctly,
because you cannot relax the upper arm muscle
from this position, and cannot have a good follow through motion.

Again,
is it possible to shoot 300 scores from an out of balance position?

ABSOLUTELY...just not easily.
 

· (aka lug nut)
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54,880 Posts



http://www.bowhunting.net/bowtube/media/79/Get_A_Grip_-_Larry_Wise/

Nice video clip of Larry Wise helping a student
with the angle of the knuckles on the bow hand.


Knuckles should be angled 45 degrees instead of straight up and down.

If you grab the grip like a broomstick,
then your results may not be as good as they could be.







So,
if da fingertips go COMPLETELY around the grip...

then,
you need more rotation on the bow hand,
to get the knuckles a long ways AWAY from vertical.


Notice how the finger tips do NOT go around the example photos.

Now,
of course,
this is just an opinion.

The whole idea is to experiment with DIFFERENT ideas
and see if you get better results.

A good idea is to try ONE new idea for 30 days,
and then see if you like the results at the END of 30 days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
relax

Hello pooter:

Please post a head to toe photo, as well,
so we can see the feet, ankles, knees...
all the way up to your head.


There are reasons to put the ankles and the knees and the hips
all in a vertical line. The reason is to get the center of your hips/belly button/
button on the jeans DEAD CENTER between the feet.

When the button on the jeans is DEAD CENTER between the feet,
then the weight is even on BOTH feet.

Once you have the bottom half of your body "fixed", balanced, centered...

then,
we can start to get the upper body parts "fixed", balanced, centered.


Now,
it is, of course, POSSIBLE to shoot off balance,
you can take the extra time to train yourself to shoot with MORE weight on the rear foot (foot farthest away from the target wall)...

but, you will get to the next level of your shooting much easier, quicker,
if you shoot from a balanced body parts position.

Your choice, of course.


So,
the upper body.


You want the two shoulder joints to form a line
that is always parallel to the arrow, when you are at full draw.

If da arrow is level,
then you want both shoulder joints level.

If da arrow is aiming down negative 10 degrees,
you want the two shoulder joints to be negative 10 degrees.


Since you cannot SEE yourself at full draw,
then it's a training thing to learn the FEEL of keeping the shoulders
always parallel to the arrow, when at full draw.

Draw the arrow to full draw,
with the ARROW dead LEVEL,
when you are standing DEAD VERTICAL...

then,
move the entire upper body as ONE SOLID PIECE OF STEEL,
when you aim for the x-ring.



So,
back to the upper body.

Holding steady is about what muscles to squeeze (just the correct ones),
and how to relax ALL THE UN-NECESSARY ones.

So,
what happens when you squeeze MORE muscles than necessary?

Answer: you don't hold as steady as you COULD.


If you would like a good reference book,
that talks about what muscle to squeeze at full draw,
and what other muscles to relax AFTER you get to full draw...

then, pick up a copy of CORE ARCHERY by Larry Wise.

The trick is you gotta use lots of muscles to pull the arrow back to full draw.


Well,
AFTER you get to full draw,
it's natural to want to CONTINUE to squeeze all the same muscles
to hold it at full draw.


Ever have a PANIC STOP in your car?

You nearly jam the brake pedal through the floor of the car...
tires screeching...
tires smoking...
you finally get the CAR to STOP and you miss the car in front of you by INCHES...


Ever notice how AFTER the car has stopped,
nothing is moving anymore...

and your leg is still PUSHING THE BRAKE PEDAL through the floor?



Same with pulling an arrow to full draw.


Gotta train your self AFTER you get to full draw,
to relax the fingers on your release handle..

relax the wrist...
try to relax all the muscles between the wrist and release elbow tip
try to relax the bicep (upper arm muscle on release side)
try to stretch the elbow straight back using just the shoulder blade muscle

IF you can do this, you will actually feel your wrist stretch a little.

Ok,
so much for the theory/mental concepts.

Now, onto example pictures.
Thanks for your time ,....i do make sure that i am balanced before drawing but once i ancker i feel myself leaning back because, i feel like its the draw bstill being to long so i ordered a half inche shorted cam to play with, i have been shooting the 2 finger stan since the 80`s so i understand the relax muscles reason, hopefully the shorter cam will be in this week so i can post some pictures on here to be graded. Steve
then,
 

· (aka lug nut)
Joined
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54,880 Posts
Thanks for your time ,....i do make sure that i am balanced before drawing but once i ancker i feel myself leaning back because, i feel like its the draw bstill being to long so i ordered a half inche shorted cam to play with, i have been shooting the 2 finger stan since the 80`s so i understand the relax muscles reason, hopefully the shorter cam will be in this week so i can post some pictures on here to be graded. Steve
then,
No worries, Steve.

When you think you have the correct size cam,
and we can get the body parts roughly in the best position for you,
you will notice that it will be easier to relax the release side of your body,
and the consistency should go up.


Sometimes,
the leaning back is a side effect of how you draw the arrow back to full draw.


When you get your new cam installed,
shoot it for a couple of weeks,
then come on back and let us all know how you are shooting,
and then we can work on the symptoms one at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks

No worries, Steve.

When you think you have the correct size cam,
and we can get the body parts roughly in the best position for you,
you will notice that it will be easier to relax the release side of your body,
and the consistency should go up.


Sometimes,
the leaning back is a side effect of how you draw the arrow back to full draw.


When you get your new cam installed,
shoot it for a couple of weeks,
then come on back and let us all know how you are shooting,
and then we can work on the symptoms one at a time.
Will do,...i seem to be stuck between 100 and 110 X`s in indoors and know that theres something missing in my form but i will holla back when i get shorter draw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Here is the last picture I have taken of my form. I think it was about 2 years ago. I need to take some more to see if I am maintaining it.
Thats more of where i need to be .
 

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Will post pictures once I can get some time to take them. I'm a youngin and still in school so its hard to find time to shoot:(
 
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