The fact that the two broadheads flew completely different than one another tells me:
1. You're still having vane clearance issues.
2. Your form/grip is inconsistent.

I'm leaning towards the second. Running through the numbers on QSpine it says you're a little underspined but I'm not sure it's bad enough to make that big a difference. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in.

 

It might be my form I don’t deny that it’s a new bow and I’m still getting use to it. I just find it strange that broadhead #1 flys pretty straight and broadhead #2 and #3 fly high right and high left respectively regardless if I change the shaft they’re on.

 

It's definitely not the broadhead. As Newby said above it's probably you or a combination of you and the bow. One of the best tools for tuning and seeing if everything is perfect (including your form) is a bareshaft. Ditch the paper and shoot a bareshaft at 10 then 20 yards and see the results. Don't do this with a broadhead only field points.

 

What he said. Bareshaft!

 

I shoot Exodus and Magnus Black Hornet Ser Razor and once my bow is tuned they shoot with field points as far as I can shoot them.

I’d look at your bow tune, form and possibly the half out or whole arrow assembly.


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Make sure you removed the ring from the broad heads. It's just for shipping.

 

Yup made sure to do that

 

Okay so one out of 3 flys great, and the same arrow always throws it off? Have you tried spin testing the other two? I may be mistaken but one problem with half outs(and I'm sure some brands are better than others) is they arent always perfectly square, which makes your broadhead not perfectly square on the shaft, which will make flight erratic.

Following up with the bareshaft, I agree as far as tuning your bow paper tuning bareshaft is mostly worthless, but it is excellent at tuning yourself. If you fire 10 bareshafts through paper, you should get the exact same tear/bullet hole, if any one of those is different from the other, something is different. Whether it be your grip, form, etc etc.

 

Imma saying, if you have vane clearance issues, you’re not set up properly and that is possibly the root of your tuning issues.

 

I'll throw out this...Did you spin test the arrows with the broadheads? Are your arrow square? Are the inserts square?
where did you get the arrows?
I square the arrow shafts, then square the inserts after installation. Spin test.
I also agree with the others that you are either getting inconsistent anchor points, or getting vane contact.

 

I'll throw out this...Did you spin test the arrows with the broadheads? Are your arrow square? Are the inserts square?
where did you get the arrows?
I square the arrow shafts, then square the inserts after installation. Spin test.
I also agree with the others that you are either getting inconsistent anchor points, or getting vane contact.

Spins true, got them at a pro shop near me

 

…And those vanes are small. Spin Check the arrows, check for vane contact issues and check your tune ie bareshaft and then get taller vanes or at least try a 4 fletch with those.

 

I’ll probably have to do all the above and then some, really wish this happened during the summer and not mid rut :/

 

The Solution SS does not have the range of movement in the cams that the Revolt series did. I never did get it to shoot a bareshaft as clean as my Revolt X. But....Once I got it as good as I could and switched to broadheads, it shot them as well as any bow I have had I do believe.
I am shooting micro arrows, but with Blaser vanes fletched helical. I am also shooting 340 spine at only 52 lbs of draw.

I will bet dollars to doughnuts if you will bareshaft tune it and then switch to high profile vanes it will shoot a lot better. If it where me, I would be using a .300 spine. The clearance is going to be close on the riser with vanes that are .50 and taller. But it will make it, ensure your rest is dropping properly .

I love the Solution SS, the balance, the draw, the shot. It is super accurate,but the tweaking to get it there was tougher . The Revolt has enough movement you could take the arrow and move the tail kick right, then left, then center easily. The cam sets about center of the limbs. The Solution, you don't have the movement to really just move the tail way left and then right. Lots of right but not as much left. The centershot you just start with the arrow parallel to the riser. You are not going to move it much if any from that. Maybe a smidge, but mostly try to get it with the cams. I bet you're cam sets right of center of the limbs when you are done.

You will get it, but the bareshaft will help you get there faster than anything. Just get it as best you can then switch to broadheads and see what you got. I do weight mine with tape to match the fletching weight.

I am going to play with some lower profile fletching later when I get time. I am shooting three or four brands of fixed blades okay, one or two fly a touch better, with the Blasers for now. I like the X vanes. And I would think the micros should not need as tall a vane. But I have learned with broadheads, Blasers are still one of the top performers.

 

I wouldn't BS tune because if it's you it'll drive you insane.........lol. You don't hunt with bareshafts right? I mean it's a good way if you want to go that route but so is broad head tuning and it eliminates shooter error. Shooter error isn't good and BS can help you with that but right now you would be adding to your woes and making it harder.

Since it's fall everywhere it's probably not the best move for you IMO. The fact that you have different shafts going the same place with different heads tells me you have arrow issues. Try a stiffer spine because you have a 50 grain insert and what head? 100 or 125? 300 wouldn't hurt at all.

Or look for broad head wobble with an arrow spin tester. You can take four nails and a piece of wood and make one or just order one for about $20.

It's spine, arrow tuning or contact most likely IMO.

It's not you if your shooting 3 inch groups at 60, not the broad head either.......Good luck

 

I wouldn't BS tune because if it's you it'll drive you insane.........lol. You don't hunt with bareshafts right? I mean it's a good way if you want to go that route but so is broad head tuning and it eliminates shooter error. Shooter error isn't good and BS can help you with that but right now you would be adding to your woes and making it harder.

Since it's fall everywhere it's probably not the best move for you IMO. The fact that you have different shafts going the same place with different heads tells me you have arrow issues. Try a stiffer spine because you have a 50 grain insert and what head? 100 or 125? 300 wouldn't hurt at all.

Or look for broad head wobble with an arrow spin tester. You can take four nails and a piece of wood and make one or just order one for about $20.

It's spine, arrow tuning or contact most likely IMO.

It's not you if your shooting 3 inch groups at 60, not the broad head either.......Good luck

I did more research and I’m definitely a bit under spined. The thing is I already invested $200 for a dozen of these arrows so I’m kinda stuck with them. Knowing what I know now I would have totally went with the 300 but alas my bed is made and now I have to sleep in it. I do have room to cut the arrow maybe 1 1/2 inch, and maybe I can drop my draw weight down slightly? Would that be a reasonable option?
On the victory archery website they do recommend a 300 for my setup but if I change nothing and only drop my draw weight to 70# it recommends 350 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

You changed vanes because of clearance issues. That alone says a whole lot, your bow is no where properly tuned. Bullet holes is one minor step in tuning but not the end all.

 

I can shoot bareshafts out to 40 and I use the exodus heads and they fly different with low profile vanes. Changed to a blazer vane and fly's like field points.... Them heads take more vane to steer them bottom line. If your bow is tuned then move on...

 

Cutting the arrows down will help
Too. Start by dropping draw weight. Bare shaft tuning is the way to go. If you can’t shoot bare shafts well you probably will have issues with everything else


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Nock tune your arrows! You will be surprised!

 

Start with bare shafts.
Spin test the bare shaft on both ends, cut off the ends that wobble.
It doesn't matter if you cut from the front or back of the arrow. Cut off the wobble.
Square both ends of the arrow.
Clean it up.
Install inserts/ collars and let dry, if inserts are installed spin test them with multiple fieldpoints that you consider straight and not bent at all.
Install nock and fieldpoint.
Shoot your bareshaft into a target at 7 yards.
If your arrow doesn't hit straight, simply turn the nock a tiny bit and shoot it again. Repeat this process until your arrow is shooting straight.
You can do this as a beginner if you take your time every shot.
Once your arrow is shooting straight, fletch it.
Then shoot two arrows into a target, one with a broadhead, one with a fieldpoint.
Shoot broadhead first.
Fieldpoint second.
If they don't hit together, you can micro adjust your arrow rest in the opposite direction of where the broadhead hit. If broadhead hits low left, micro adjust your rest up and right. I can't stress enough about the "micro adjust".
If this doesn't work you can also lower the poundage on your bow by a pound or two and that can help broadhead tune your bow.
Consistency is key so you'll need to do this process with every single arrow. Try to build each arrow to the same weight.
There's a few different ways to do this but it could be that your arrows aren't squared, you're getting nock pinch, your form is off, your insert is bent, your broadheads wobble, you're getting vane contact... all sorts of things so you'll need to go through the process of sorting through all of that. Start off with nock tuning each bareshaft if you care about accuracy. You need every piece of the equation working the right way of you want great accuracy.

Good luck and shoot straight! 🦅🇺🇲

 

I’d like to add that low profile vanes in a 3 fletch with broadheads will show flaws more severe than anything I’ve tested. Whether that flaw be arrow, form, or bow tune.

You’ve had a lot of advice that has introduced many variables on what the issue might be. I would eliminate as many variables as I could. To get complete confidence in your bow tune and form consistency, I would bareshaft tune to perfect or near perfect bullet hole with it at center shot. Like others have said if you hit bullet hole one time and the next it’s a noticeable tear one way or other, your form is changing slightly shot to shot. If you have consistent form, paper tuning to bulletholes should be easy with your bow as long as the timing of the cams are in sync. Then take that bare shaft and see how it groups with fletched field points to 20 yards. Do it several times to make sure your form is putting it in consistent placement in relation to the field points. If it hits in middle of group and aligned with the fletched in a foam target every time then your bow tune is decent and form is consistent. If you get a bare shaft flier every once in a while that is your form showing up.

If you can get that bareshaft to hit middle group and aligned to fletched out to 30 or even 40 yards then your bow is well tuned and your form is consistent. If you are getting that and then you put a broad head that spins true on a fletched arrow and it doesn’t hit with your field points then your under fletched and the broad head is magnifying any slight inconsistency at launch.

I shoot the exodus and other broadheads and the exodus has been one of the most forgiving and shoots lasers when everything is set up correctly.

I have experimented with different fletching configurations. Mainly between 3 fletched blazers and 4 fletched heat vanes. Heat vanes fly nearly identical as blazers out to distances greater than 60 yards with field points but when I stick broadheads on the results are not as good with the heat vanes. Any inconsistency in form shows up much more quickly and severe with the heat vanes.

The reason I mention my experience with heat vanes is because if you are grouping bare shafts consistently in the middle and aligned with your fletched out to 30 or 40 yards but still have issues with broadhead flight I’d go up in vane profile as much as I could. I really wanted to use the heat vanes for several reasons but my broadhead groups widened out with them and I went back to blazers which are just very good with broadheads. Maybe start by putting that low profile vane you are currently using in 4 fletch and if the low profile vane is still an issue then go to tried and true blazers. If you don’t have a fletching jig then this experimentation will be harder so just have your shop fletch a few in 4 fletch low profile and also 3 fletch blazers so you can see the difference at home in the same session.

I might be a little late in response but hope this helps and you have a great hunting season.


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I’d like to add that low profile vanes in a 3 fletch with broadheads will show flaws more severe than anything I’ve tested. Whether that flaw be arrow, form, or bow tune.

You’ve had a lot of advice that has introduced many variables on what the issue might be. I would eliminate as many variables as I could. To get complete confidence in your bow tune and form consistency, I would bareshaft tune to perfect or near perfect bullet hole with it at center shot. Like others have said if you hit bullet hole one time and the next it’s a noticeable tear one way or other, your form is changing slightly shot to shot. If you have consistent form, paper tuning to bulletholes should be easy with your bow as long as the timing of the cams are in sync. Then take that bare shaft and see how it groups with fletched field points to 20 yards. Do it several times to make sure your form is putting it in consistent placement in relation to the field points. If it hits in middle of group and aligned with the fletched in a foam target every time then your bow tune is decent and form is consistent. If you get a bare shaft flier every once in a while that is your form showing up.

If you can get that bareshaft to hit middle group and aligned to fletched out to 30 or even 40 yards then your bow is well tuned and your form is consistent. If you are getting that and then you put a broad head that spins true on a fletched arrow and it doesn’t hit with your field points then your under fletched and the broad head is magnifying any slight inconsistency at launch.

I shoot the exodus and other broadheads and the exodus has been one of the most forgiving and shoots lasers when everything is set up correctly.

I have experimented with different fletching configurations. Mainly between 3 fletched blazers and 4 fletched heat vanes. Heat vanes fly nearly identical as blazers out to distances greater than 60 yards with field points but when I stick broadheads on the results are not as good with the heat vanes. Any inconsistency in form shows up much more quickly and severe with the heat vanes.

The reason I mention my experience with heat vanes is because if you are grouping bare shafts consistently in the middle and aligned with your fletched out to 30 or 40 yards but still have issues with broadhead flight I’d go up in vane profile as much as I could. I really wanted to use the heat vanes for several reasons but my broadhead groups widened out with them and I went back to blazers which are just very good with broadheads. Maybe start by putting that low profile vane you are currently using in 4 fletch and if the low profile vane is still an issue then go to tried and true blazers. If you don’t have a fletching jig then this experimentation will be harder so just have your shop fletch a few in 4 fletch low profile and also 3 fletch blazers so you can see the difference at home in the same session.

I might be a little late in response but hope this helps and you have a great hunting season.


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How are you fletching the heats? I ask because I recently built a dozen arrows and used heats, 4 fletch, and they have been excellent in forgiveness.

I use a right helical clamp on my bitz for everything, and offset as much as the shaft allows too, but they are doing good for me… I also got kinda lucky and my tune is really good with these arrows… normally I quit bare shaft tuning at 40yds due to me being the Weak link at some point, but I have shot these arrows bare shaft a lot at 50, and they have been on the money… when all said and done, the better your tune, the more forgiving the whole system will be all the way down the pipeline… I think my previous arrows I shot for the past few years, was borderline weak… right now I have a pretty big window I can shoot with point weight, which wasn’t the case before.

I switched from 6 fletch mini blazers to these heat vanes 4 fletched

 

update: my form has settled, I’ve tuned my bow, loosened my limbs a full turn, four fletched my arrows with an aggressive helical so far they’re shooting like a dream.

The bare shaft holes above are from 20 yards away. Below are fletched arrows, haven’t gone through every arrow but so far they the ones I’ve tested are flying true with the exodus up to 40 yards, I haven’t tried out further but I’m sure they’re golden.

cant thank you all enough for all the advice, God bless and happy hunting!