You know that's a good question.

Been using qads exclusively for hunting for years and never gave it a second thought.

 

After initial setup, tuning will tell you if it's set in the right spot.

 

I agree for the most part.

I also wonder, however, when I read posts about people's bows that like the nock to be a touch high, if they had set the arrow level with the rest at full draw, would their nock point still like to be high?

Or would that small amount of rest height at full draw be enough to consider it nock level?

Just a curiosity question more than anything else. Appreciate the input from everyone.

 

I always do it at full draw position.

 

The shop set mine up so at rest the arrow is level with the Berger hole.

 

So I just pulled a bow down off the wall and really gave it a hard look.

I would need to dig out a protractor out and do some trig to get an actual measurement of the distance between the cocked height and the full draw height but I suspect the difference isn't enough to matter. I determine my ultimate rest height position through bare shaft tuning and then sight in after that. So if my bare shaft is hitting where I want then the rest height can't be wrong.

 

Wonder if there'd be any benefit to check rest height in my drawboard. With the bow at actual full draw, that is.

Makes me wonder how level the arrow is sitting when in that position.

May not matter...the rest drops pretty quickly and should have 0 contact by the time the arrow actually leaves the string. Then again, tweaks to rest position do affect arrow flight...

 

I see what your saying. But yes once I get the rest timed correctly with the draw cycle and the arrow level through the burger hole while the rest is ALL the way in the upright position. If you have the rest in the 80° position it will throw your tune off. It might not show in flight with vanes but it will show in paper or bareshaft. Most people don't think of it cause they'll see one thing of paper an adjust the rest or loop to fix it when really it was just the initial setup.

 

I, recently, setup my brothers Bear Renegade bow with HDX and followed HDX's instructions. It showed to level at rest position using level.

Go to their website and review their video, it will help ease your mind.

 

Fully up, no other way to do it properly.

 

Set it up level at first and then paper tune it. You will find it tunes almost perfectly when set up at the 80 position.

 

80 is not, never will be level.

 

Do you shoot it in the RELAXED position?

 

Set it up with it in upright position as your starting point. Adjust as needed.

 

All the way up here, and adjust during tune.

 

Maybe I will try initial set up with the rest all the way up next time. See how it goes.

It may be 6 of one and half a dozen of another in the end.

 

Not 6 of one, a half dozen to rhe orher! It is either done correctly or it isn't. Fully up is correct way.

 

Ultimately, whether you set it up at the 90deg or the 80deg, what is your end result arrow flight like? The beauty of all the different tuning options of a compound bow is the whole thing works as a system, so regardless of how you initially set up the rest you can [usually] get to the same end tune result. If it's been working for you all these years, continue your current system.

 

Should I be setting these up with the rest at the 90deg position?

If not you would be nock low when at full draw. Not a huge difference but if you do all the fine tuning with paper and broadheads, then it seems like you would want this to be perfect as well.

 

Nock low has always sucked, in my limited experience. I start with my old Potawatomi bow square with the rest in a fully up position.

 

At full draw.

 

I always hold the thumb wheel down (rest fully up)to check arrow position. Why wouldn’t you?

 

I do mine at full draw. But I do think thta the very small difference doesn't end up mattering a while lot after tuning and sight adjustment. But I do understand the OCD need to baseline perfectly, I'm guilty of this even though I tell myself the same thing I just said.

 

If you've ever measured it cocked vs fully up, you would know it might be 1/64" of difference. I can hardly tell any difference in the bubble on my level. Just an FYI.

That said, I do it full up, because why not.