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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought some XX75 Platinum Plus 2114 for my wife. I got the standard RPS inserts to go in them. The package says that they are supposed to fit shafts from 2113 to 2117 so they should be the right ones. But I can't get them to fit.

They seem like they are perfect, right up to the last "ridge" before the collar. This ridge is ever so slightly wider than the others and stops the insert from going all the way in. The fit is close enough that I could "force" them in. But I feel I would be deforming the aluminum if I do this. I have tried multiple inserts in multiple shafts and they are all the same.

Has anyone had this experience? Did I simply get a mis-labeled pack of inserts or is there something I'm not understanding?


Fit seems good
7310653



Won't go in past the last ridge
7310654
 

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From what I remember putting together aluminum arrows that was normal, put glue on and rotate insert, slide to that point then I would push them against the edge of the bench to seat them in.

Not having those in hand I can’t be sure how tight they are, try one maybe to check? Dry fit it with a field point on so you can remove it.


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By chance did you ream the inside of the shaft?
 
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How did you cut them? Sometimes with a tube cutter you need to ream the inside. I use Aluminums for everything. What you have is Normal. What dtkyman & Dale B said. Best shaft out there in my opinion.
 

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A reloading style case mouth reamer is what you need. Has a cone shaped end with blades to fit down in the arrow and chamfer the sharp edge off to fit over that last little bit of insert.

Put a field point in and clamp it is a vice with the insert on it. Heat both arrow and insert. I use the rubber coated gloves to get a better grip on the arrow as I spin it on the insert with heat glue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
By chance did you ream the inside of the shaft?
I did not. But it makes a lot of sense. Thanks

How did you cut them?
I haven't cut them yet. But I have an arrow saw. Probably still a good idea to ream them once I do cut them though.


Put a field point in and clamp it is a vice with the insert on it. Heat both arrow and insert. I use the rubber coated gloves to get a better grip on the arrow as I spin it on the insert with heat glue.
Thanks for the tip. I guess aluminum isn't as heat sensitive as carbon is it... ;)
 

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To avoid a cold joint should heat both the insert & the shaft but shaft only so you see the heat wave go up the shaft. Put most heat on insert & let cool natural.
 

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A reloading style case mouth reamer is what you need. Has a cone shaped end with blades to fit down in the arrow and chamfer the sharp edge off to fit over that last little bit of insert.

Put a field point in and clamp it is a vice with the insert on it. Heat both arrow and insert. I use the rubber coated gloves to get a better grip on the arrow as I spin it on the insert with heat glue.
Your making way more complicated glueing them in that whats needed. Your method I could do a half dozen to your one. Put the insert half way in the shaft use a open flame and hot melt shove/push the insert in and wipe off excess glue. Takes 3 seconds.
 

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Your making way more complicated glueing them in that whats needed. Your method I could do a half dozen to your one. Put the insert half way in the shaft use a open flame and hot melt shove/push the insert in and wipe off excess glue. Takes 3 seconds.
+1 super easy fast and holds great. That's one (of many) reasons why I still use aluminum. They hold great and never come out plus if you want to take the inserts out to cut the arrow later, swap to a heavier brass insert or back to a standard one, rotate them for tuning, or lining up broad heads etc you just add a little heat to the shaft with a torch and do so. It doesn't take much heat.
 
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