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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I don't know the theory on where the arrow should be on the string. It's strange to me that the shelf is not right at the center at 50%.

My question is, how high should I layer the pads? Should I use 3 pads so that it is level with what I think was the default placement for the arrow on the flipper plastic ledge? If I use 3 pads, is it too high, or just right, as it matches the original height? Does it matter? It would probably allow more feather clearance? But if I were to use just one pad, I think I would have less chance of the arrow or feathers knocking off the two top pads, if they were stacked. I will probably just use one pad for the side plate, as it seems about the same thickness as the original.

Also, would it matter the location of the pad(s): toward the belly, below the hole/screw/mount, in the middle, or toward the face/front of the bow?

I'm really new to archery, so please excuse my lack of knowledge. It's only been about a month since I've started. I'm trying to stick to traditional as much as I can. I would have loved a longbow, but got a great deal on this PSE Heritage Buckeye.

Thanks,
Huy

P.S. The reason I'm replacing the plastic flipper is because it moves around while I shoot. The adhesive is slipping (whitish parts). Also, if I decide to do any traditional competition, would the height of the pads disqualify me?

Wood Bow and arrow Bow Longbow
Wood Table Plywood
 

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Hello all,

I don't know the theory on where the arrow should be on the string. It's strange to me that the shelf is not right at the center at 50%.

My question is, how high should I layer the pads? Should I use 3 pads so that it is level with what I think was the default placement for the arrow on the flipper plastic ledge? If I use 3 pads, is it too high, or just right, as it matches the original height? Does it matter? It would probably allow more feather clearance? But if I were to use just one pad, I think I would have less chance of the arrow or feathers knocking off the two top pads, if they were stacked. I will probably just use one pad for the side plate, as it seems about the same thickness as the original.

Also, would it matter the location of the pad(s): toward the belly, below the hole/screw/mount, in the middle, or toward the face/front of the bow?

I'm really new to archery, so please excuse my lack of knowledge. It's only been about a month since I've started. I'm trying to stick to traditional as much as I can. I would have loved a longbow, but got a great deal on this PSE Heritage Buckeye.

Thanks,
Huy

P.S. The reason I'm replacing the plastic flipper is because it moves around while I shoot. The adhesive is slipping (whitish parts). Also, if I decide to do any traditional competition, would the height of the pads disqualify me?

View attachment 1254752 View attachment 1254753
Well if I was going to do this.... I'd take a file to the radius and L it out and I might consider radiusing the shelf except that the grip is not very deep so maybe I'd scrub that idea and

just raise the shelf right above the the grip with some leather or as I'm doing now a small pin and velcro to give it some lift right above the grip to attempt to eliminate as much "torqueing influence" as possible.

Aloha... :cool::beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi rattus58,

Thank you for your input.

Ya, I most likely won't take a file to it, though I do wish it had a radius to it. I was trying to think of ways to build up the radius, but haven't come up with anything creative, except for this, which I got from another thread. I don't know what you mean by "L it out".

If you're willing, I'd love to see how you did yours. I think I know what you mean though.

Thanks,
Huy
 

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Hi rattus58,

Thank you for your input.

Ya, I most likely won't take a file to it, though I do wish it had a radius to it. I was trying to think of ways to build up the radius, but haven't come up with anything creative, except for this, which I got from another thread. I don't know what you mean by "L it out".

If you're willing, I'd love to see how you did yours. I think I know what you mean though.

Thanks,
Huy
Well that would be to shape it into a 90 degree .. like an L and then build up the shelf.... Here is an older picture of mine... I've changed it since... to a small pin across the shelf and velcro intead of leather and a wood arrow half.... Of course that would require the service of a file.... to level the shelf... :grin:
View attachment 1254772

Aloha... :cool::beer:
 

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This was how John at Lancaster's set my Excel up with the furniture pads



Worked pretty well for me..but as high as your stick on rest is..you will have to change your nock point on it..

Mac
 

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If that bow is tapped for a pressure button use a rest that mounts in the insert.

Yeah..have to agree. That bow's shelf was not made to shoot off of as you can see by the large radius. Stick with an elevated rest. My wife and daughter shoot similar bows and use bear weatherests...they shoot fine like that.
 

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On your P.S. re competition rules and building up the shelf, many organizations don't care and even allow elevated rests like a stick on or others. IBO doesn't allow any buildup of the shelf except a thin rug or thin piece of leather.
 

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I have a formula rx that I shoot off the shelf you only need 1 thickness for rest and one for strike plate cut pieces about 3/8 inch square and lay them on usually strike plate first then shelf have strike plate as low as you can without it curving at shelf
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well that would be to shape it into a 90 degree .. like an L and then build up the shelf.... Here is an older picture of mine... I've changed it since... to a small pin across the shelf and velcro intead of leather and a wood arrow half.... Of course that would require the service of a file.... to level the shelf... :grin:


Aloha... :cool::beer:
Haha! Thanks for the input and pictures rattus58.

Take care,
Huy
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This was how John at Lancaster's set my Excel up with the furniture pads



Worked pretty well for me..but as high as your stick on rest is..you will have to change your nock point on it..

Mac
Hello Mac,

Wow, that is pretty low. I would think the feathers would hit the bow quite a bit. But I guess if it does it consistently the same, you've already naturally compensated for that in your shooting. Thanks for the response and picture.

Take care,
Huy
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah..have to agree. That bow's shelf was not made to shoot off of as you can see by the large radius. Stick with an elevated rest. My wife and daughter shoot similar bows and use bear weatherests...they shoot fine like that.
Hi sandman2.0,

Hmm, I didn't know the large side radius would affect flight... that's my inexperience showing. ;) What's worse for the moment is that my inexperienced shooting (i.e. bad aim) doesn't allow me to see where the different factors affect things. Thanks for your input.

Take care,
Huy
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have a formula rx that I shoot off the shelf you only need 1 thickness for rest and one for strike plate cut pieces about 3/8 inch square and lay them on usually strike plate first then shelf have strike plate as low as you can without it curving at shelf
Hi CLASSICHUNTER,

Hmm. That looks like it's going to be difficult for my bow, because there is so much curve before there is a flat spot for the plate. By that time, the one thickness shelf won't life the arrow high enough to hit the side plate. That's why I was thinking 3. Boy, it looks like there are way too many options, and I'll just have to test a number of them, until I get it right. Oye! :D

Take care,
Huy
 
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