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bow nut
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Discussion Starter #1
I just put new string and cables on my Carbon Element. They were perfect in length but the top cam was way behind at full draw. To speed it up I twisted up the buss. The only problem is I was already a drop long on the dl. Now I put around six twists in the bow string and it helped some. Would I have been better off just taking out twists from the control cable instead of twisting up the buss? Thanks for any help.
 

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twisting up the buss cable will increase draw lenght(slightly) AND INCREASE DRAW WEIGHT.twisting up the string will shorten draw length. if the top cam is behind untwist the control cable to sych cams. at this point i would take the six twists out of the buss cable, sych the cams with the control cable(by untwisting it), check your draw length, and your poundage. you have already shortened your string so in effect shortened your draw slightly.if the new stuff was "perfect " in length you should be close to spec. hope this helps
 

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bow nut
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Discussion Starter #3
Very helpful indeed. I have always used the control cable in the past but the newer Hoyt owners manual says to twist the buss to speed up the top.
twisting up the buss cable will increase draw lenght(slightly) AND INCREASE DRAW WEIGHT.twisting up the string will shorten draw length. if the top cam is behind untwist the control cable to sych cams. at this point i would take the six twists out of the buss cable, sych the cams with the control cable(by untwisting it), check your draw length, and your poundage. you have already shortened your string so in effect shortened your draw slightly.if the new stuff was "perfect " in length you should be close to spec. hope this helps
 

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(aka lug nut)
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Very helpful indeed. I have always used the control cable in the past but the newer Hoyt owners manual says to twist the buss to speed up the top.
You can go either way.

BIG gap on the top cam?

I prefer to lengthen the control cable.

If the GAP is HUGE,
you can SPLIT the difference...

a) LENGTHEN the control cable some (untwist several twists)
b) SHORTEN the control cable some (twist several twists).
 

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Use the buss cable to get bow into specs i.e. A-A and Draw weight with limbs bottomed out. Use the control cable to brings cams into time. Set Draw weight at intended usage and check DL, twist string to adjust or change module setting. Should be close at this point, some minor tweaking always seems to come into play though.:)
 

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bow nut
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4,699 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone. Thats just what I finished doing. My control has almost no twists and the buss has some extra twists. I have a bunch in the string as well. I think I have the only Hoyt that runs long on dl lol! I have 25" mods on it and it is still 25.25 on my draw board with me twisting up the strings. About three in the top and four in the bottom.
 

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bow nut
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4,699 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The gap was huge indeed! Why would this be with perfect length string and cables?
You can go either way.

BIG gap on the top cam?

I prefer to lengthen the control cable.

If the GAP is HUGE,
you can SPLIT the difference...

a) LENGTHEN the control cable some (untwist several twists)
b) SHORTEN the control cable some (twist several twists).
 

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bow nut
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4,699 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
As much as I hate to do it I'm getting a 1/2 shorter set of mods. Then maybe I won't have to twist up my string so much if at all. My god I think I have the shortest dl on archery talk.
 

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