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Questions about setting up my Reckoning

840 Views 15 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Skyydyyver
My Reckoning seems to be somewhat unforgiving with vertical misses. Left/right is solid. IDK if this is a form issue or bow setup problem or a combination of both. The cable does not line up between the cam timing lines but is about the same for both cams; see attached pictures. Does that matter?

Secondly when setting the draw stops it's basically impossible to tell if both are in the exact same spot relative to each other since there are not specific spots for them. I set them visually to the reference marks on the cams the best I can and currently the bottom cable stop hits the cable about ten thousandths sooner than the top stop as determined by a feeler gage on a draw board. Should I adjust the stops to both hit at the same time while the bow is at full draw? Do I need to address the cam timing before doing any adjustments to the draw stops?

Thanks for your inputs!

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I am no pro but your cam timing doesn't look that far off, those marks are for reference only.
On my Reckoning, I got the timing close as I could then put it in the draw board and set the stops hitting at the same time.
Next, I made sure the cams were centered by adjusting the DeadLock. If I remember right you move both cams to one side (same side) then put 2 1/2 turns to center em up.
Next, I centered and leveled my rest and shot thru paper and adjusted the Deadlock on both cams slightly until I had a bullet hole.
Note, I did set my rest where the arrow was in the upper portion of the berger hole because it seemed to hold better there.
Next step was to walk back tune and sight in.
Like I stated earlier, I'm no professional bow tech but this seemed to work pretty well for me. I'm sure others can go into greater detail and explain things a little better.
Lucky Stops sells a tool called The Justo which significantly helps you set the stops precisely but at $135 and unless you do it everyday it didn't seem like an investment I wanted to make. I did however put the Reckoning draw stops on from Lucky Stops and they made the back wall firmer, the OE ones were a tad spongy.
 

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If it was consistent I'd say your timing needs to be adjusted, but you said unforgiving which leads me to believe that your misses are more random high/low.

I'd be looking at grip pressure, sight/peep alignment, and anchor consistency. Possibly mess with stab weights/position as well.
 

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You need to tune to a bareshaft. That way you can tell very quickly what is actually effecting your nock travel. Once you work that out. Then you can stop worrying so much is it me or is it the bow. Make sure you are not getting some fletching contact. Once its tuned and you have no fletching contact. Then you can focus on what it is you might be doing.

Two common things for high low misses
One is not pulling into the stops the same each time
The other is a little different alignment with the sights between shots
 

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So just set both draw stops to touch at the same time while at full draw and not worry about cam timing?
Getting both draw stops to hit at the same time IS cam timing. Those marks on the cam are just a starting point/quick reference. They do NOT indicate that your synch is perfect.
 
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Getting both draw stops to hit at the same time IS cam timing. Those marks on the cam are just a starting point/quick reference. They do NOT indicate that your synch is perfect.
I think he is talking about where the draw stops are positioned on the cam vs properly timing. I don't have a Reckoning but it looks like the stops are adjustable by sliding and do not have fixed positions.
So he can only get proper timing by setting the stops as close to the same position by visually eyeballing the position lines(not timing marks) which may not actually give actual perfect timing, just close.
Did I get that right?
That situation would be annoying...
 

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If I got that right OP then I would do your best to set the stops the same and twist cables till they both hit at the same time, and I would say ten thousands is good enough. That's 0.010", which is hardly anything in terms of time imo. I'm no pro either though.
Unless you want the top or bottom cam advanced on purpose, some people so that. I think Tim Gillingham has the top advanced slightly so it's just a little out of perfect time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think he is talking about where the draw stops are positioned on the cam vs properly timing. I don't have a Reckoning but it looks like the stops are adjustable by sliding and do not have fixed positions.
So he can only get proper timing by setting the stops as close to the same position by visually eyeballing the position lines(not timing marks) which may not actually give actual perfect timing, just close.
Did I get that right?
That situation would be annoying...
Your are exactly right. I think I will simply slide one drawstop so they both touch at exactly the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You need to tune to a bareshaft. That way you can tell very quickly what is actually effecting your nock travel. Once you work that out. Then you can stop worrying so much is it me or is it the bow. Make sure you are not getting some fletching contact. Once its tuned and you have no fletching contact. Then you can focus on what it is you might be doing.

Two common things for high low misses
One is not pulling into the stops the same each time
The other is a little different alignment with the sights between shots
The bow is bare shaft tuned. My perspective is based on other bows I have shot and do shoot and the Reckoning just seems a bit touchier when it comes to vertical consistency. One possibility is I could be varying how hard I pull into the wall from time to time.
 

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Having the bottom stop hit first is usually never the best setting.. Get them hitting at the same time or the top slightly a head and see if your vertical spread improves.
 

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If I got that right OP then I would do your best to set the stops the same and twist cables till they both hit at the same time, and I would say ten thousands is good enough. That's 0.010", which is hardly anything in terms of time imo. I'm no pro either though.
Unless you want the top or bottom cam advanced on purpose, some people so that. I think Tim Gillingham has the top advanced slightly so it's just a little out of perfect time.
I've heard this too, about some people preferring the top or bottom slightly advanced. Do you know why they would want that? Is it just the feel of the back wall or is there some effect on the arrow flight they are looking for?
 
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