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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, some time ago I hung out here on AT. Shot compounds 3D and hunting. Got hooked on crossbows in the last 3 years and now I am hooked on CT. Been shooting a $400 Barnett and wacked several deer with it. "Had" to upgrade and after reading here and CN for the last few months I "had" to get Scorpyd. I eased in with a used bow bought on the classifieds here from No1Huntmaster. Orion extreme 135. Got it this week and I am very impressed. Only shot close range so far getting 20 yard set. Hoping to stretch it out tomorrow. I might add, No1 has been very helpful with letting me know some of the big and little things about Scorpyd, I am appreciative.

So much for intro, I need to ask a couple of questions and probably will add as I go:
1. The screws that hold the foot stirrup are huge and are between the holes for the quiver. Surely there are flat heads that can go there so the quiver bracket will go over them flat. Does anyone know size and thread pattern?
2. I tried some standard quiver screws in the holes where the quiver bracket goes and the thread pattern seemed odd. Again, anyone know size and thread pattern?
3. What are the holes for in the end of the foot stirrup? Doesn't seem like anything should go there as you would put your foot on it to cock.
4. Are there silencers that work best for the limbs? I see the stick on limbsaver types on your bow pics posted here.
Thanks for any and all responses..
Will
 

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Congrats on the good choice. Here is what I would recommend:

1. For silencers see: https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5041081

2. Keep in mind however, some people don’t like them on the limbs because it reduces speed.

3. Get new strings, cables, and have the cams timed while replacing. See post #3 for how to tell your bow shop to time it: https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=4740793

4. I hear good things about Gas bow strings: https://gasbowstrings.com/

5. People were double serving their center serving so that might be something to investigate? See: https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=4042218

6. Tighten down all your stock screws. You can secure with VSC Thread Compound as it is less permanent than Locktite.

7. If you can find a jig use it to spin both your cams to make sure they spin freely. You could also try having the bow shop ensure the cam bearings are properly seated in the cams.

8. Wrap the stirrup, pistol grip, and cheek comb with cheap tennis grip tape from Walmart to protect.

9. Get custom arrows from Tapp-Nation. Jerry can give you what you need.

10. Get a Blob target so you can confirm your zero with broadheads. Make sure you zero and practice with broadheads.

11. NAP FOC’s are popular broad heads. Read on here re because apparently their spring clips are only good for three openings. People also use dental bands to keep the blades closed in flight. Alternatively, these Afflictor Hybrid X’s weigh about the same and may not open in flight: https://afflictorbroadheads.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=67

12. Sharpen your broadheads, good thread here: https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5472391

13. I use cat crap defogging solution on my lenses and no lens caps.

14. Unscrew your safety, one side at the time, and encase in heat shrink.

15. I use the Barnett decocking bolts for just that.

16. You need a cantilever scope mount for proper eye relief, see post #2: https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5233993

17. When the cables are off at the bow shop have the cables and cable slide routed correctly. See here:

18. Before reinstalling, lube the rail under the cable slide with white silicone grease.

19. Only use “Q” Nocks from Firenock

20. Watch Jim’s instructional videos on YouTube.

21. When shooting at a deer always aim for where you want the arrow to exit, usually in front of the opposite shoulder.

22. Pix of my Velocity set up as per the above:
 

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Will, some people including me, use the Qwickee 3-arrow quiver attached to the scope rail with the vanes facing forward.

Only the short cocker will work with that setup.
 

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Good. The last pic is from the left side and shows how both how the cable slide should be oriented as well as which cable goes on top/bottom. Apparently they do not all come that way, however having them oriented that way that is important for efficiency.

The no scope lens caps is because I have seen on here where people missed shots because they lens caps were down.

The heat shrink on the safety is because people make a huge deal of how loud it can be/is. Apparently heat shrink helps it stay quiet.

Gas bow strings are good because they are built under tension and therefore they do not stretch much/at all.

You can see my stirrup is wrapped in that cheap tennis grip tape from walmart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Couple questions comments.. I have been wondering about decocking, have not had to do that yet. I have a Barnett decocking bolt used for my old Barnett, I see you say you use that. It had a half moon nock, that is ok? Parker makes one with a capture nock.

The cable slide concerns me. The deeper cut is on the rear? and your cables cross on the left looking down at the bow as you would hold it?

As far as quiver, I have that solved. Found the correct screws and use 2 rubber washers under a 10 pt side mount quiver bracket. Works perfect!

I put the heat shrink on the safety. Still noisy, but if you consciously hold pressure and move the safety slowly, you can move it without the click.

I wrapped my stirrup. I don't think anyone knows what those screw holes are for :confused:

I had already ordered a string from Jerry before you posted. Hopefully it is a good one. And my bow came with spynal tapps.

Thanks again!
 

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Couple questions comments.. I have been wondering about decocking, have not had to do that yet. I have a Barnett decocking bolt used for my old Barnett, I see you say you use that. It had a half moon nock, that is ok? Parker makes one with a capture nock.

The cable slide concerns me. The deeper cut is on the rear? and your cables cross on the left looking down at the bow as you would hold it?

As far as quiver, I have that solved. Found the correct screws and use 2 rubber washers under a 10 pt side mount quiver bracket. Works perfect!

I put the heat shrink on the safety. Still noisy, but if you consciously hold pressure and move the safety slowly, you can move it without the click.

I wrapped my stirrup. I don't think anyone knows what those screw holes are for :confused:

I had already ordered a string from Jerry before you posted. Hopefully it is a good one. And my bow came with spynal tapps.

Thanks again!
Yes, the cable slide's deeper cut is on the back.

Yes, the cables cross on the left as you look down with the important factor being which one is on top and therefore orient as you see in the pics.

You time it by measuring the string from axle to latch at full draw with each side needing to be equal. That link has a better description, only real point is to not use the holes in the cam for timing.

These are the decocking bolts I use: https://www.cabelas.com/product/Barnett-Evac-Decocking-Bolt/1968947.uts?slotId=0 They are definitely not a capture nock, but for $1 a pop they work for me.

I noticed too when leaving my VTEC cocked all day it seemed much less springy when shooting to decock after legal shooting light. Therefore I may launch of of those $1 decocking bolts around noon this year and let the limbs sit at rest for a few before recocking for the afternoon?

Someone on here was thinking of making an aftermarket cable slide so that both cables cross evenly, however that has been a while and nothing new on the issue. There is a much better discussion re in the link above on extreme timing.

I am interested in Jerry's Chameleon arrows when they come out.

I also like AV3 vanes because Jim does, however that is, by far, the minority opinion on here. I read more about AV3 vanes recently and because they generate lift, FOC does not matter with them. That means you can go with as light an arrow as possible for the quickest click to bang sequence. I have yet to shoot a deer with my fully integrated AV3 arrows, however they seem accurate enough on the bag.

I also wrap my pistol grip and comb with the same grip tape, pics to follow.
 

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Couple questions comments.. I have been wondering about decocking, have not had to do that yet. I have a Barnett decocking bolt used for my old Barnett, I see you say you use that. It had a half moon nock, that is ok? Parker makes one with a capture nock.

The cable slide concerns me. The deeper cut is on the rear? and your cables cross on the left looking down at the bow as you would hold it?

As far as quiver, I have that solved. Found the correct screws and use 2 rubber washers under a 10 pt side mount quiver bracket. Works perfect!

I put the heat shrink on the safety. Still noisy, but if you consciously hold pressure and move the safety slowly, you can move it without the click.

I wrapped my stirrup. I don't think anyone knows what those screw holes are for :confused:

I had already ordered a string from Jerry before you posted. Hopefully it is a good one. And my bow came with spynal tapps.

Thanks again!
The holes in the stirrup *might* be for the potential addition of Firenock's aerorest?? Several recent Scorpy .pdf catalogs show the Aerorest prominently displayed, however it has not been seen in action.

I guess I took the tape off the grip? I raised the comb with some pipe insulation that I wrapped with the camo tape you see.

Don't ask about my custom VooDoo VAP derivative arrows and I won't tell. I will say the D6 inserts will shoot into the bag all day long at 420+ fps without breaking while the factory Victory arrows split right along the insert on the very first shot from the same bow under the same conditions.

Here is the thread on my Velocity you see above: https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5168721
 

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I think the chameleon shafts have had a set back. Hopefully only temporarily. I’ve been waiting on them also. Likely will go with Spynaltaps .
 
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