[Matt in IL]

I was at the proshop last weekend for 5 hours tuning my bow. I had alot of problems at first. My cams were out of sync, my draw length was a tad too long, and my paper shots were horrid. After we got everything squared away I started shooting and I couldn't believe how accurate I was out to 40 yards, I was very confindent and thought I would be good to go for hunting in a month with some practice here and there.

So today, I decided to shoot again and man was it ugly. It's like my bow just did a 180 back in time to last weekend. First off, I'm having problems with my cockvane hitting the prong block. But, I think it's because the rest is coming up too early, and staying up too late...Is that possible? It comes up at just a tad past 1/2 draw. Is it possible to adjust that? Also, I'm sure I could raise the knock and possibly extend the prongs a little to fix it if not? What's happening is my arrows are shooting low and to the right at 20 yards and out. I thought maybe I was torqing the bow, but I swear I made sure my grip was perfect and I was following through every shot. Even with my boradheads, they do the same thing. I even had one or two shots where the arrow almost did a complete forward flip in mid air, scared the crap outta me. My specs are below:

'06 Hoyt PowerTec 28.5 / 57lbs
Quicktune Drop-Away 2k
D-Loop, Kisser, Stock Silencers, Peep
Beman Black Max 400's 27 5/8 w/blazers
100g Montecs/Field Points
TruBall Copperhead

Here's a few pics:

 

[johnno]

G'day Matt,

Whilst I do not profess to be an "expert" your rest should raise at the end of your draw in or about the last 1.5 -2" of arrow length. I have a NAP 4000 rest and to ensure that I got the correct "lift off" I merely lengthened the cable. Also from the pic it appears that your arrow may be out and a tad high as it seems that the arrow should be across the "berger" hole in the riser. At the end of the day if your arrows are consistently hitting the same point be it high, low whatever, it is easier to adjust your sights accordinglyly. If broadheads are not hitting the same as field points this is usually an issue with the rest that needs to be tuned to accommodate the point of impact. Naturally all the above relies on consistency and if no consistency it could be anything from arrows to form. There are numerous threads on this forum about tuning or you can got the Easton site that has also been previously mentioned on a thread elsewhere. Hope this is of some help :wink:

 

[BearSlayr]

Try shortening the string on your rest to get it to raise earlier and second make sure you serve around the string so that it doesnt move afterwards.

 

[razorjack]

I have same setup as you!

ok first thing you need to do is, shoot cock vane up........second,move your rest back to where it lays flat,and the angled forks just hit the arrow holder on your shelf,,,you need to cut a little bit off on the back of the arrow holder even with the back of the bow,,looks like a little is hanging over.....then use a square or eyeball to make sure your knock point is level ............once you make these few adjustments you can start to tune it,,,but right now ,looking at your pictures your rest is way off...........:darkbeer:

 

[Papick]

Matt,
to me it looks like your arrow is too perpendicular to your string, personal experience tells me that between 1/8-1/4 inch above square works best. And that I achieved by shooting at a horizontal line and moving the rest down a little at a time until all arrows hit an almost horizontal line, see Easton tuning chart.
I too have Qt 4000 on my 2 bows and that's what I have found out, also...
Something else I discovered and am in the process of discussing it over with NAP tech support. Once in a while, the vane closer to the cable that lifts up the prongs is slightly touching and that does not happen everytime, their newer smart rest have a rope instead that is away from the path of the arrow.
But what NAP will tell you is to bend the cable away from the vanes, which does work, but it does bend back.
So try bending it outwards, or check for contact.
But first I would make sure the horizontal and vertical tuning is doen correctly.

 

[Papick]

MAtt,
I looked at your picture again, your arrow seems above square. Even worst.

 

[Matt in IL]

Hey Pap,
I changed my rest posistion back a bit so the prongs just barely touch the riser. I also had to adjust my nock point. After it was all said and done, I'm shooting excellent again for the past two days. Thing that lingers in the back of my mind is my arrow still isn't at a 90 degree angle, but it flys just fine. I will get a pic up soon.

 

[SCS]

One thing you have to watch with that rest is the roll pin that controls there the rest stops. Mine popped out and the rest would come up too far and hang up. Also, bend the cable where it attatches to the rest to give it a "set", otherwise your vanes may hit.
If you have an old TM Hunter laying around, take the prongs off of it and put them on the QT2K. Lay them flat so they form a V when the rest comes up. You'll have no contact that way, and when covered with fleece, there is no noise at all.
Steve

 

[Papick]

One thing you have to watch with that rest is the roll pin that controls there the rest stops. Mine popped out and the rest would come up too far and hang up. Also, bend the cable where it attatches to the rest to give it a "set", otherwise your vanes may hit.
If you have an old TM Hunter laying around, take the prongs off of it and put them on the QT2K. Lay them flat so they form a V when the rest comes up. You'll have no contact that way, and when covered with fleece, there is no noise at all.
Steve

Steve,
can you explain in detail about the roll pin?? I can't follow which part you're talking about?