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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the past couple days my groups have been suffering like crazy from 10 yards, yes 10 yards. I'm new so I just have small basement setup to practice. Everything was fine until a couple of days ago I could not put a group together for the life of me. I tried to see if it was the holes in my blazer vanes, my length of my release, my stance, my form, my breathing, target panic the whole nine yards.

So I got so frustrated today I just decided to shoot a last group, no sense practicing when it's not good practice. I put my quiver back on and my group tightened up like before. I'm thinking it might just be fluke, shot another group and same results.

Do you guys think it could my hand torque that's messing up my shot and the weight of my quiver is "counter torquing" my grip? What's your opinion?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Could be. Some people shoot better with a quiver mounted on their bow. However I do not.

What's up with the holes in your blazer vanes?
I haven't had the time to refletch it, my two of my arrow vanes had another arrow through it. It was side to side too don't know how that happen.

I just find it hard not to group at 10 yards with or without a bow mounted quiver. How long have you been shooting and what is your skill level?
That is exactly my thoughts too! I've been only shooting two weeks ago but even when I first started it wasn't even this bad. I don't know what's going on.

It could be the added mass weight making your pin float smaller and making any movement at the shot less dramatic.
But when I shoot, lately at least don't find my pin floating at all. I dialed my bow down to 55# to practice, guess I'm use to it now. Gonna dial it back to 60# and see what happens.
 

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SuperToon'd
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You're probably just putting to much thought into it. Sometimes you just have to "unlearn" what you have learned. You definitely need to get those vanes fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You're probably just putting to much thought into it. Sometimes you just have to "unlearn" what you have learned. You definitely need to get those vanes fixed.
Just reviewed all my videos when I first started to check my form and they are all shot with quivers on. I'm doomed lol I can never shoot without it off now haha
 

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A heavier bow holds more steady. Put some more weight on your bee stinger if you'd like too shoot without a quiver.
The other thing about quivers (2 piece ones anyways) is they place the weight closer out nearer the ends of the riser. And this can improve steadiness at the shot.
I've always been told that (except for a long stabilizer that is "out there" which steadies a bow), you don't want a lot of mass at/near the center of the riser.
That's the reason I use a 2-piece quiver and forgo using a stabilizer for hunting.

Oh, and after what happened to my buddy last fall I'd never even consider using a "quick-release" one piece quiver. He lost a bow out of the tree when the lock mechanism didn't hold! <eek>
 

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Can't wait for September
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The other thing about quivers (2 piece ones anyways) is they place the weight closer out nearer the ends of the riser. And this can improve steadiness at the shot.
I've always been told that (except for a long stabilizer that is "out there" which steadies a bow), you don't want a lot of mass at/near the center of the riser.
That's the reason I use a 2-piece quiver and forgo using a stabilizer for hunting.

Oh, and after what happened to my buddy last fall I'd never even consider using a "quick-release" one piece quiver. He lost a bow out of the tree when the lock mechanism didn't hold! <eek>
His sig says he has an 8" Bee Stinger. I always recommend a longer stab (I run a 15"), but 8" isn't too short. I'll bet if he adds 4 oz to the end, he would hold more steady.

I also only use 2-piece quivers, but I like them because they don't vibrate, and I only have it on during hunting season.
 

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I also only use 2-piece quivers, but I like them because they don't vibrate, and I only have it on during hunting season.
YEP! Vibration/sound is also another GREAT reason to use a 2-piece FIXED quiver. ~ Forgot to mention that benefit. (One-piece quick detachable quivers can definitely rattle/loosen up.)
There are a few one piece quivers that are dead quiet too (like the old Arrow Cage I by Trophy Ridge) but that setup tends to make a bow even more top/forward roll heavy.
This is personal preference (as are so many things in archery) but I prefer/strive for a neutral balanced setup. (another reason for going with a 2 piece quiver)
 

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The other thing about quivers (2 piece ones anyways) is they place the weight closer out nearer the ends of the riser. And this can improve steadiness at the shot.
I've always been told that (except for a long stabilizer that is "out there" which steadies a bow), you don't want a lot of mass at/near the center of the riser.
That's the reason I use a 2-piece quiver and forgo using a stabilizer for hunting.

Oh, and after what happened to my buddy last fall I'd never even consider using a "quick-release" one piece quiver. He lost a bow out of the tree when the lock mechanism didn't hold! <eek>
Was he hanging his bow by the quiver?
 

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Was he hanging his bow by the quiver?
that was my first thought and thats a TERRIBLE idea!

anyway, on topic, you are torquing the bow. all this talk of stabilizers is not your problem at 10 yards with a left/right miss. your grip is too firm, relax your hand. torque tune your rest.

let the pin float, if you are fighting to make it sit dead still, you are definitely gripping too hard.

also, in a situation like yours, you should stop shooting at a spot. try shooting at a thin vertical line and a thin horizontal line. DO NOT let the lines intersect on your target. a strip of electrical tape on a white target will suffice. walk your arrows down a line only worrying about the line.

this will prove to yourself that the equipment is set up correctly and that you CAN shoot well. once you can hit the horizontal and vertical lines on alternate shots, you allow the lines to intersect on your target. your groups will improve.

if youve shot holes in your vanes, you have the ability. its not your equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
that was my first thought and thats a TERRIBLE idea!

anyway, on topic, you are torquing the bow. all this talk of stabilizers is not your problem at 10 yards with a left/right miss. your grip is too firm, relax your hand. torque tune your rest.

let the pin float, if you are fighting to make it sit dead still, you are definitely gripping too hard.

also, in a situation like yours, you should stop shooting at a spot. try shooting at a thin vertical line and a thin horizontal line. DO NOT let the lines intersect on your target. a strip of electrical tape on a white target will suffice. walk your arrows down a line only worrying about the line.

this will prove to yourself that the equipment is set up correctly and that you CAN shoot well. once you can hit the horizontal and vertical lines on alternate shots, you allow the lines to intersect on your target. your groups will improve.

if youve shot holes in your vanes, you have the ability. its not your equipment.
In regards to my grip I shoot with open hand all the times resting it on my meaty part of my palms ever since I started. I'm wondering if I'm not letting my bow drop and catching it too early?

But I'll definitely try that exercise out, thank you for the tips.
 

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are you peeking after the shot? catching the bow can cause your issue, but you would get some vertical misses also, not just left/right? is the loose pattern all over and random or just horizontal? i might have misread a portion about 'side to side' as your pattern? or was that about how the arrows landed when you shot the fletch?
 

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I don't care if you have a quiver on or off the bow at 10 yards the fact that you are trying to shoot groups at that distance is a huge sign that you need to take a step back and rethink what shooting a bow really can be. At that distance you should be shooting the same hole over and over without ever missing if you have became a decent shooter with the proper methods. I have some thoughts on this stuff that you can have if you pm me.
 

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Was he hanging his bow by the quiver?
Well, you might say that lol.... Actually for the past 5 years I have been in the habit of climbing the tree with bow hooked to my hip. With the right setup, it works awesome. (Part of my climbing to 17+ ft. with 2 sticks thread.)
Anyways, he was doing this too, and the bow was hanging on his hip during his climb DOWN, by his quiver loop. He made it up the tree fine (as always) earlier that day. But on his way down, as he hung the bow on his hip and took the first step down..... The quiver released his bow from 20 ft. up! (I wonder whether he caught his boot or something. Even so, this would never have happened with a 2 piece.)

PS: I had already warned him about using his one piece quick detachable quiver like that. On a good 2 piece quiver, there is absolutely no reason not to hang it by the rope. (There is a huge difference between cheap quivers and really good ones too. The most rugged I've ever seen and have on all my bows is the Trophy Ridge Arrow Cage-II, but it's no longer available.) I've used these and done this for the past 10 years. (Bow rests tight against the tree, Because I hunt from a saddle. Heck, for the past 5 years I've also been hanging my bow in a "quick-draw" fashion (saddle hunting) from the same hook at my waist, using the D-loop!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
are you peeking after the shot? catching the bow can cause your issue, but you would get some vertical misses also, not just left/right? is the loose pattern all over and random or just horizontal? i might have misread a portion about 'side to side' as your pattern? or was that about how the arrows landed when you shot the fletch?
Without the quiver it's all over the place, 1.5" apart. When I put that bad boy back on it's tight again.
 
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