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Discussion Starter #1
I would like to re finish an aluminum riser in matte olive green. Any thoughts on the best way to do this or places to send for a professional job?
 

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Either rough up the surface with steel wool or wet sand it. Then clean it with alcohol and rattle can it.

The rustoleum camoflauge series spraypaints work great and is a durrable matte finish
 

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Rattle can is a good way to go, as touch-ups are easy.

For stuff I want ultimate durability on with my hot rod and motorcycles, I go with powder coat. Strip the riser down completely, and the PC place will blast it and coat it in the color and finish gloss of your choice.

But, it won't be nearly as cheap as a rattle can!
 

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I had a compound riser refurbished. I had is cold stripped and then professionally painted. I came out great. The cold stripping was $20 and the painting was probably somewhere around $90 to $100 if I recall.

I think it was a magnesium risers.
 

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any enamel spray paint will easily rub off an chip and peel and will be easily softened or melted with simple oil like wd40 or misquito replent on your hands.

I have had the best luck using duplicolor truck bed line in clear and applying it directly to the stripped bare riser and then using either semi gloss or flat black laquer paint over the textured clear.

This is the most durable finish and easily touched up , outside of powder coating or profession 2 step automotive style paint systems.

The people that tell you to use enamel spray cans don't know what they are talking about, the paint is junk and only good for back yard fences and wood . Anything that is handled or exposed to a lot of wear should never have the cheap enamel spray paint applied.

If you don't believe me just buy a can of laquer paint from a automotive store and then compare it to any enamel spray paint out there and apply it to some test metal surfaces and you will see how simple oils and household solvents will eat up enamel paint , where laquer paint is chemical resistant to most of them.

Most important quality laquer paint can be wet sanded and touched up , enamel will just blister , peel and chemically blister when tried to be touched up or repainted even in a small area.
 

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Just my opinion, but after the cost of a stripper, primer, paint, and a clear coat. Might as well have it professionally powder coated for around roughly the same cost in supplies. Will be much more durable also.

Here is a Titan riser I had done by a local shop in matte olive.
 

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Just my opinion, but after the cost of a stripper, primer, paint, and a clear coat. Might as well have it professionally powder coated for around roughly the same cost in supplies. Will be much more durable also.

Here is a Titan riser I had done by a local shop in matte olive.
Agreed. Doing a rattle can job is pretty cheap, and there are some good paints out there that are durable. Automotive grade enamels are pretty tough.

But pro level paint....yeah, by the time it's said and done, PC is the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Stub- what you did is exactly what I am looking for. I also have a Titan riser. I just want something different than all black look (my limbs are black too).

Thanks for responses.
 

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I put bolts in all the holes that I did not want paint in.

Also, I considered powder coating. It was my first choice. I found some concerns about possible negative effects of powder coating on the metal and went with paint instead. I can't remember what the issue was. I know that plenty of folks have had risers powder coated.
 

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Hank, was it about weakening or possibly warping the metal when baked?

That was one of my concerns when I first looked into pc'n my riser.

I remember reading horror stories on the web about risers getting warped. However If I recall, most if not all of the ones I read was from do-it-yourselfers. Who used a home oven and either baked too long or too hot.

I'm sure as long as you find a good shop who does pcing on a regular basis. Its going to be a pretty safe bet. Guys who know metals ins and outs. Still wouldn't hurt to bring up your concerns and questions to the guys doing the work. Maybe even discuss warranty.

About covering the holes.
I can only speak of the shop I went to. They took care of all that for me. Was one of the questions I was asked prior to dropping my riser off. Was no additional charge. All the other hardware I just removed. After all was done. Everything went back together no problem.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 

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From camo to powder coat matte black 30.00 bucks call around to places that do it


46D5061E-093E-47BA-AEA5-921CF31A00E2.jpg 38359CB1-BBC6-4006-8C32-3DCCFF856B16.jpg
 

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Stub, it might have been. It definitely had to do with weakening the riser. I started with the idea of powder coating and then changed after what I had found out, from multiple sources. I wish I remembered.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have a tradtech titan 2. I checked with Lancaster and they are powder coated black to start. The shops I talked to said that if it’s already powder coated you don’t need to remove the old paint so that saves in prep time. I was looking to just mask where the limbs seat and leave it black since you won’t see that anyway with limbs installed.
 
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