Mileage varies, but this is my road trip...
Covert Hunter, I think Hex 7 limbs.
Shoots nicely, gets same arrow speed with 9 gpp at 46# that my 54# Predator Velocity (speed-oriented Predator) does at 8 gpp. Much smoother draw, very comfortable, but took some adjustment on my part to get used to the draw in conjunction with the release, both in draw force curve on the back end and lower draw weight. Kind of just waited for the string to pull out of my fingers. Had to learn to relax my fingers more during expansion. Also, because of the relaxing feeling, had to learn to pay more attention to bow arm stability for the shot. Got comfy on the back end, but if I'm not careful, I can get too relaxed. Adjusted emphasis in shot sequence, seems fine. That being said, I know some who gave it an honest try, and it didn't work for them, as the smoothness of the draw made them feel like they longer needed to 'pull through' the shot, and it encouraged a tendency to collapse. To be fair, others have had the opposite experience, in that the perceived ease of the draw on the back end made them feel like it was easier to expand through the shot. I think it is something you'll want to try before you buy, or buy used and resell if you don't like it, or buy new and understand that you might not like it, or you might love it, but you risk selling at a loss to have the experience if it doesn't work for you, which isn't the worse thing on a journey, but either way, I wouldn't suggest going into the "THIS IS THE BOW FOR ME, DEFINITELY" before you've actually had a significant amount of time with it. Mine is my favorite bow, and has been for years, but I would not suggest it would be yours. Could be, could also not be. Depends on you.
Didn't find it any more difficult to tune.
As far as vibration, I think valid point, in that the vibration characteristics are definitely different though that needs qualification.
Any 'Deep Hook' bow will have more movement of the limb tips upon stopping, and will look to vibrate more visibly in terms of movement after the shot, because the pivot of the lever (string lift point at brace) is farther from the tip, and you have a 'see saw' with a longer span to the 'end seat', so to speak. This means that the limbs have more leverage against the 'stop' of the string at the end of the shot, and will wobble more, and at a lower frequency. Note that this does not mean that there is actually more energy put into the 'see saw'. This looks like a lot more vibration, but it is also vibrating slower, so in terms of energy, I really don't know. Really comes down to how much, and what part, of the limb is moving how fast, and how much mass does it have, when the bow hits brace and the string tries to stop the limb. If you really wanted to know, you'd just calculate the bow efficiency, and most of that energy that isn't in the arrow gets dumped into the bow, mostly in the limbs. Keep in mind, equal efficiency, higher energy bow, be it from greater stored energy at a given holding weight, or greater stored energy with a higher holding weight, will mean more residual energy put into vibration. So keep your apples and pineapples in different bins. Comparing a 30# bow to a 60# bow isn't the same thing, nor is comparing a 45# recurve to a 45# super recurve. If you want to equalize, compare a super recurve to a heavier recurve that will fling the same arrow at the same speed. This means that the conventional recurve will be shooting a lower GPP arrow.
That being said, vibration in terms of noise, if properly set up to be quiet, they're not loud at all, though if you're talking something like a lot of barebow target shooters do, string walking, no silencers, nothing to address any of it, they can be incredibly loud. Issues to address..
-Leftover energy, what would be put into vibration, is minimized with Enough arrow weight. The advantage of a deep hook, in terms of how it flings an arrow, is stored weight to holding weight, not necessarily efficiency or speed. Border in particular does pretty well becomes their limbs are light and engineered to minimize mass where the limbs move the most (at the tips), but you can get that in a conventional limb as well. A conventional profile limb, all else being equal, can go just as fast if you lower the GPP of the arrow.
-Low frequency 'Thrum', associated with the longer, lower frequency vibration pattern. This sound is actually loudest for the shooter, because of the shape and direction of the limbs. The curve of the limbs focuses the sound at the shooter's head, but towards the target disperses and falls off at distance. Laterally, because the limbs are radiating the same sound out of phase forward and backward, like a dipolar pattern, and lower frequencies are less directional with long wavelengths, the sound largely stays out of phase, combines, and cancels to the side. Limb savers, not located at the fade out, but about halfway between the string lift point and the end of the fade out, where the other half of the 'see saw' moves, greatly damps the greater movement of the limb, and turns it into a quiet 'thud'. You can find this point by plucking the string while holding the bow by the limb in that area between your thumb and fingers, and feel/hear the difference. When you find it, stick it there. Or, if you don't mind hearing a thrum (because it's mostly going to be you), leave it alone.
-String slap/buzz. This is actually the loudest part of the noise component (at least with the limbs I have), and was significantly louder than with my conventional limbs, and I believe it has to do with the angle of the limbs below (on the top limb) the string lift point being shallower initially, which allows more string contact against the limb after the shot. When I first experienced it, I was really not happy. Thought something was broken. Sid pointed out what turned out to be a completely 100% effective fix. A 1/2" square of soft velcro, located on the limb beneath the string, centered where the string would otherwise leave the limb when braced, not only softens that contact point, but much more importantly, simply lifts the string away from the limb by just enough so that when the string vibrates after the shot, the vibrating portion of the string makes zero contact against the limb, but just pivots on a damped hinge, so to speak. This fix is actually better than running materially further down the limb, as zero contact makes less noise that contact with a soft material, though if having more material makes one feel better about having more damping, that's fine. My wife's bow is set up that way, and it's good to go.
-String vibration (itself radiating sound). String silencers. Located at 1/3 and 1/4 lengths from the lift points at brace, work well, as these are the points where at least the first 12 harmonics have movement and can be damped. Not saying that having 2 in any location can't work well, just that 1/3 and 1/4 has always worked well for me. Everybody has their own method. Some like to move them to tune. It really should not take much material to quiet a string if properly located. If it does, particularly if that material is closer to the limb tips, then the source of sound probably isn't the string vibrating by itself. I use cat whiskers, and serve them in place. What is typically provided for a single point, I split, and then cut in half, and trim, to use for 4. Pretty close to barely anything.
-Tune the bow/arrow/you. Better tune is less energy wasted, less vibration to start with.
