After reading about bows that were tillered for split fingered... one over two under etc, It made me wonder if I was setting my bows up correctly. If you buy a used bow, is there anyway to tell how it was tillered and designed to be shot? Also, When I purchase a bow without an arrow rest and it has a shelf, I have been adding an old type brush arrow rest which raises the arrow off the shelf a good half inch. Example: I just bought a Damon Howatt Hunter and added a Brush rest.... When you raise the arrow rest and the bow has a shelf, and I assume the bow was designed / tillered to be shot off the shelf....... Tiller VS Arrow rest location. Does it really make a difference on traditional bows and if it does .. when? Thanks!
Recurve tuning
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Arrow Rest/Tillering
In my opinion the only time tillering means anything is with a take down target bow. When a Bowyer makes a bow they tiller it so the limbs are drawn evenly and in a straight line. The arrow rest affects the arrow flight. If you are shooting a trad. bow off a shelf you need feathers. If you are shooting off a rest you can get away with vanes. Now, if the bow is drilled for a plunger you are in luck because you can now tune the bow for better arrow flight. For example, I shoot a Hoyt Gamemaster and have a simple flipper rest on it that screws in the plunger hole. You can adjust to some degree by unscrewing the rest or screwing it in to get proper clearance of the vanes. Tillering has nothing to do with it. To me the arrow rest and plunger are the most important items here. I don't know if this helped in any way but I have learned a lot from years of trial and error.
In my opinion the only time tillering means anything is with a take down target bow. When a Bowyer makes a bow they tiller it so the limbs are drawn evenly and in a straight line. The arrow rest affects the arrow flight. If you are shooting a trad. bow off a shelf you need feathers. If you are shooting off a rest you can get away with vanes. Now, if the bow is drilled for a plunger you are in luck because you can now tune the bow for better arrow flight. For example, I shoot a Hoyt Gamemaster and have a simple flipper rest on it that screws in the plunger hole. You can adjust to some degree by unscrewing the rest or screwing it in to get proper clearance of the vanes. Tillering has nothing to do with it. To me the arrow rest and plunger are the most important items here. I don't know if this helped in any way but I have learned a lot from years of trial and error.
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20,674 Posts
FL -
The "tiller" thing is little more than a selling pointing (read BS) on all but the shortest bows. If you tune the bow correctly, meaning clean arrow flight proven by paper and or bareshaft tuning,you'll negate any ill effects of tiller.
BTW - I may have mentioned this earlier, but Earl Hoyt in the 50's proved that tiller within tolerances of 3/8" - 1/2" had zero effect on the accuracy potential of a bow. It might change the "feel" during the draw, but that may only be detectable if you're using a sight AND aiming from pre-draw to anchor.
In effect - fogettabottit ...
Viper1 out.
The "tiller" thing is little more than a selling pointing (read BS) on all but the shortest bows. If you tune the bow correctly, meaning clean arrow flight proven by paper and or bareshaft tuning,you'll negate any ill effects of tiller.
BTW - I may have mentioned this earlier, but Earl Hoyt in the 50's proved that tiller within tolerances of 3/8" - 1/2" had zero effect on the accuracy potential of a bow. It might change the "feel" during the draw, but that may only be detectable if you're using a sight AND aiming from pre-draw to anchor.
In effect - fogettabottit ...
Viper1 out.
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