I use some fine steel wool. After you have all the old fletch off, and it's just resudual glue, I just wrap the steel wool around the shaft and rub it 5 or 6 times from start of fletch to nock end of arrow. That takes it all off and doesn't remove alot of carbon.
I wouldn't use steel wool. The best thing to do it use a very, very dull knife. You have to be extra carefull with the Carbon Express arrows I have found that they are the softest, easiest carbons to to mess up. I ruined 3 last year just pulling of the fletching. I know that easton suggest using very fine sandpaper on there shafts but I would still be very careful using it on the Carbon Expresses.
I agree with the Hornet - a dull knife works best for me... I wouldn't use steel wool, either - I think it would make the surface too glossy... You want it a little roughened to promote good adhesion... Once in a while, I'll use some 400 grit for the really stubborn ones, but only as little as is necessary... 99% of the time, a little time spent with a dull utility knife works perfectly for me... I use Bond-Tite, BTW, and while I've never had a fletch come off a carbon while using it, it still comes off without too much trouble when it's time to re-fletch... One other thing: I wouldn't use a knife you care about for this operation - the carbon will wear the blade down quicker than you'd think - that's why I use a cheap untility knife....
Give acetone a try. Keep it off of your nocks as it will soften many of 'em. I use a paper towel soaked in acetone and wrap the fletching area in that towel. Let it sit for 15 minutes then use a dull blade to scrape it.
I've done it with my Carbon Express.
You can find acetone at most any paint store or certainly at Depot or Lowe's.
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