I previously shot a very inexepensive PSE Deerhunter and could shoot touching groups at 20 yards. I traded it in for a high end Martin with Elite limbs, but I am having trouble holding this bow still. It's NOT TP. The bow fits and is tuned to perfection. I'm NOT torquing the bow (confirmed by use of an Anchor Sight). I'm just having a lot of trouble holding the bow steady on target. It's a hunting bow, and I have one of those Bowjax stabs on it (I really like them), but I suspect it's not giving me enough balance or forward weight on that long ATA bow. The new bow is also significantly heavier. Any help is greatly appreciated.
DrJAG2
Assuming that everything is set up correctly, and you know what they say about assumptions, there is generally a balance between a bows holding weight and mass weight that produces the best 'hold". What is your sight picture? A slow, constantly moving float, but that has a large pattern? Or, a pretty solid float with herky jerky bobbles out of the spot?
Generally, a slower, but bigger float is a sign that the bow's mass weight is too high for the holding weight, or the holding weight is too low for the mass weight. With the solid, but out of nowhere fast movements, it is usually a sign of a mass weight that is too light for the holding weight, or a holding weight that is too high for the mass weight.
The quick way to fix the problem is to potentially add or subtract from the bows draw weight accordingly. This can have adverse effects on arrow spine and speed. You could also remove weight or add weight to the bow. Probably not a lot of mass weight to remove from a bow that is set up for hunting. You probably don't want to add a lot of weight to a hunting bow.
You can correct the holding weight issue some without changing the other noticible characteristics of the bow, but this is probably the least easy of the options. Changing cable diameter will effect holding weight. So will changing the diameter of the end serving. Increasing the cable or serving diameter, assuming the cams have solid draw stops, will slightly increase the holding weight, without really changing anything else. Oppisite for a smaller diameter cables or serving.
My hunting bow is always the latter, mass weight that is too low for the holding weight, but I don't want to weigh my hunting bow down that much to get a better float.
Generally, a slower, but bigger float is a sign that the bow's mass weight is too high for the holding weight, or the holding weight is too low for the mass weight. With the solid, but out of nowhere fast movements, it is usually a sign of a mass weight that is too light for the holding weight, or a holding weight that is too high for the mass weight.
The quick way to fix the problem is to potentially add or subtract from the bows draw weight accordingly. This can have adverse effects on arrow spine and speed. You could also remove weight or add weight to the bow. Probably not a lot of mass weight to remove from a bow that is set up for hunting. You probably don't want to add a lot of weight to a hunting bow.
You can correct the holding weight issue some without changing the other noticible characteristics of the bow, but this is probably the least easy of the options. Changing cable diameter will effect holding weight. So will changing the diameter of the end serving. Increasing the cable or serving diameter, assuming the cams have solid draw stops, will slightly increase the holding weight, without really changing anything else. Oppisite for a smaller diameter cables or serving.
My hunting bow is always the latter, mass weight that is too low for the holding weight, but I don't want to weigh my hunting bow down that much to get a better float.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
