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Removing tree sap?

4.9K views 24 replies 24 participants last post by  rhath  
#1 ·
What can I use to remove tree sap from bow without ruining the finish? Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
Turpentine or mineral spirits will cut sap.
They're pretty mild on most cured finishes so if they damage your bow's finish it probably isn't very good.
Test in an obscure spot and wash residue off with soap and water and you should be fine.
 
#13 ·
Turpentine. It's distilled from Pine resin. It's the perfect solvent for pine sap. I also use WD40. It's usually my number one go-to sticky stuff remover. It won't harm the finish or your bow either. Neither should Turpentine.
 
#14 ·
I have used cooking oil, olive oil to be exact. I had some glue on one of my recurves after removing the leather grip. My wife actually told me about using cooking oil so I tried it. I didn't want to use anything harsh on the wood finish of my recurve and the cooking oil worked perfect. I just rubbed some on the glue and wiped with a soft towel , it comes right off. I would suspect it would work well on sap also.
 
#16 ·
Use hand sanitizer to get the bulk of it off. Then lay the stain flat and pour some high-strength detergent over it and let it sit for about 30 mins. Throw in the washer right after on cold. Check stain. If it's still there then repeat. Don't throw it in the dryer until the stain is gone.

Problem is rarely getting the sap off - it's getting the black stain left over off the garment.
 
#23 ·
For pine sap on metal or fiberglass, naptha (main ingredient in charcoal starter and Coleman lantern fuel) is usually safe on any cured coating. Turpentine would also be good (May screw up a spray bomb DYI camo job, though). Alcohol may work but probably won't dissolve the resin as well, but it may get off the stinky naptha or trupentine smell on a hunting bow.

For a wood bow, which may have a varnish, lacquer, or shellac finish, you need to be more careful. Anything you try should be be tested on a small inconspicuous spot first. Naptha and turpentine can cause varnish to dull or check. Alcohol will dissolve any shellac, even if it was just used as a wood sealer before top coating. WD-40 is probably a safer bet, but moisten a rag and try it first.

Rubbing with a paper towel can be somewhat abrasive (paper is made from wood fiber), so don't rub too hard or you may change the gloss of the original coating (make flat coating more shiny and shiny coatings dull). The automotive clay bar may have the same effect, as will hand cleaners with pumice in them, so use it with care.

Goo-Gone and citrus based cleaners work well on sap and glue residue, but the above cautions still apply.

The most sensitive areas with any cleaner or solvent are going to be the logos and decals. The logos may just be sprayed on ink, in which case any of these may just totally remove them. Any of the solvents may cause the edges of decals to dis-bond as well as start messing up the dyes used to color them.

Best to keep all of them away from the strings and cables. Best thing to get sap off them is just keep working in the string wax.

SO after saying all may cause problems, if it were me: For globs of sap, I would scrape as much off as possible with an old credit card or other plastic tool. Then, and for the large areas like where your sappy gloves or hands have left a bunch of sticky areas, using a cotton rag I would try: WD-40 first, naptha second, goo-gone or citrus hand cleaner third, Soap and water after to neutralize it and get the smell off. For oil or grease, I would probably go with alcohol first.

jmtcw

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