[singoo]

Hi Dear Archers,

I just replaced the OEM strings with a new set from a local shop for my Halon 32 and have encounter a few issues.

1. The draw cycle is a bit harsher than before.
2. The peek weight feels quite a bit heavier. At my anchor I feel I need to use more power to hold steady.
3. The bow is much noisier.

For my understanding, 1) and 2) is some how expected since the new string set is new so it's not as flexible as my old one. Am I right there? If so, how long it will take for this 'negative' (may not be negative) effect to be gone?

For 3) I cannot figure out why. When I am using my old string, the sound of shooting an arrow is like "Dong", it's very gentel. When use the new string, the sound is like "PLAG", like a string is slapping on something. I tried to back out the string stop a bit so the string won't hit the string stop that hard during release, but that doesn't quite help.

Did any of you experienced what I have described above? Is there anything I can do to improve my situation?

Thanks in advance.

 

["TheBlindArcher"]

Check brace height, axle-to-axle, and peak draw weight before and after new strings?

 

[laserbeam1001]

I experienced a similar thing when I put new strings on my bow at first. Keep in mind you still have to tune the bow after changing strings. Once I tuned my bow it was even better than before. Check everything, measure ATA length, brace height, cam timing, cable routing, poundage, and let off. Also if you have yoke strings you may need to adjust them to.

Also keep in mind that your old strings may not have been at the stated poundage unless you measured before hand. I believe sometimes it can be a mental thing, we think something is wrong when it's not, so measure everything.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

 

[singoo]

Check brace height, axle-to-axle, and peak draw weight before and after new strings?

I don't have a bow scale so I don't know the poundage changes. But I can check the brace height and ata once off work. Thanks for the advice.

 

[sneak1413]

My initial thoughts are that the bow was not at peak weight before the string install and whoever installed the strings forgot to back the weight back down. Different string materials will make the bow sound different as well. If you had string silencers on the string before and none now that could be the difference in the noise.

 

[singoo]

My initial thoughts are that the bow was not at peak weight before the string install and whoever installed the strings forgot to back the weight back down. Different string materials will make the bow sound different as well. If you had string silencers on the string before and none now that could be the difference in the noise.

Well, when I first get my halon 32, one of my first impression is how quite the bow is. Now my impression is the halon 32 can also be noisy. Besides, hand shot is somehow building up after the string replacement. I am still actively tuning my bow so I will see if there is anything I can do. Just try to get more valuable advices here ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[nuts&bolts]

Adjust the length of each cable, so the cable runs through the center of the reference hole (see red arrow).

 

[singoo]

Adjust the length of each cable, so the cable runs through the center of the reference hole (see red arrow).

I did that. But still got that weird feeling described.

 

[dad2sixmonkeys]

Sounds to me like something is off. BH or ATA or timing.

If the BH and ATA don’t measure out the way they should and you don’t have a press at home take It back to the shop who installed the strings and have them put it back into spec.

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[retrieverfishin]

I would start over. Put the old strings back on. Mark the cam timing as either shown above or put pencil marks on the cams where they intersect the limbs. Replace each piece one by one resetting everything to those marks after each piece is installed. This will take more time but then you can be assured you are setting it back up the way it was. Will get you to a good starting point to start the tuning process.

 

[Alaska at heart]

Your first step is to start thinking about this correctly. If you went to the local tire store this afternoon and purchased four new tires for your vehicle, the odds are really low that you would drive away with a smooth ride if they were not each balanced correctly. Wheels are not perfect and tires are not perfect, so they need to be matched to each other (by use of precise weighting) to produce a pleasing ride and sense of value to the driver. Same thing with string sets and bows. A really good string set (new tires) can be built to put a given bow (wheel) perfectly in factory specs, but that might not be the setup that the bow shoots best.....it still needs to be customized (bow tuning or wheel balancing).

If you don't have a bow scale to check draw weight, I am presuming you also don't have a press to install the strings or a draw board to check DL and cam timing? So did the local shop that sold the strings also install them? Your bow could have been initially set up close to factory specs to give you a smooth, quiet and pleasing shot....but over time your old string set moved you away from those precise settings.....which you slowly got used to? Your rest adjustment and peep were installed with the specs of the old set, which means they might also be slightly off now. Or the new string set is not set up identical to the old set, which makes everything different....even just slightly. That is why Retreiverfishin/Mike, who happens to build high quality Catfish Custom Strings, suggested that you start from scratch with your old set back on to take careful measurements and observations as you swap out each cable and the string.

In short, it is time for you to start LEARNING about your bow rather than just shooting your bow. Go to the Mathew's website and look up the factory specs. Be sure the string set you purchased is well built and properly pre-stretched so it isn't going to give you issues that may never end. Finally make sure that YOUR bow is set up the way YOU like it....which means knowing the settings and returning it to those same settings when something major.....like a string change is done. Time to balance your new tires, sir.

 

[mongopino915]

I would start over. Put the old strings back on. Mark the cam timing as either shown above or put pencil marks on the cams where they intersect the limbs. Replace each piece one by one resetting everything to those marks after each piece is installed. This will take more time but then you can be assured you are setting it back up the way it was. Will get you to a good starting point to start the tuning process.

If the bow is tuned to you and you like the draw weight, length, let-off, and rest position, you can only replicate it by actually measuring and recording all specifications (i.e. string/cable lengths. draw weight, draw length, brace height, axle to axle, and etc.) and setting each string/cable piece to the recorded length like stated above.

It is normal to expect that your previous string/cables may have stretched slightly and/or not to manufacture's spec.

It should also be easy for a pro shop to set your bow back into manufacture's specs but it may not be the original specs that you had it before changing the string set.

When I built string sets and install them on the bows for a few personal friends, I always tell them what the state of the their bow is, relative to the manufacture's specs, and ask them how they want the bow to be set up.

All this can only be done with recorded measurements/data. Looks like you do not have the tools to do the measurements accurately, which is OK. But, make sure that your pro shop does and understands exactly what you want. It is time to get to know your equipment.

Good Luck,

 

[SandmanNY]

This may sound dumb but......you should check to make sure that your cables are routed properly. I've seen instances where the cable guard was on backwards, or someone routed a control cable improperly. If you didn't do the change yourself, you need to check all that. Believe it or not, it is totally possible to shoot a bow with cables routed improperly. It will result in really weird valley, little or no let off, or a strange draw cycle.

Just my 2 cents, but as i work on a ton of bows that have "visited" some pro shops in the recent past, i've come to start out with a basic check to make sure everything is where it should actually be before i even start looking for tuning issues.

 

[edthearcher]

Hi Dear Archers,

I just replaced the OEM strings with a new set from a local shop for my Halon 32 and have encounter a few issues.

1. The draw cycle is a bit harsher than before.
2. The peek weight feels quite a bit heavier. At my anchor I feel I need to use more power to hold steady.
3. The bow is much noisier.

For my understanding, 1) and 2) is some how expected since the new string set is new so it's not as flexible as my old one. Am I right there? If so, how long it will take for this 'negative' (may not be negative) effect to be gone?

For 3) I cannot figure out why. When I am using my old string, the sound of shooting an arrow is like "Dong", it's very gentel. When use the new string, the sound is like "PLAG", like a string is slapping on something. I tried to back out the string stop a bit so the string won't hit the string stop that hard during release, but that doesn't quite help.

Did any of you experienced what I have described above? Is there anything I can do to improve my situation?

Thanks in advance.

did who ever put the new strings on time the cams, and also check brace and A to A, a new set of custom strings properly made should be quieter , also check level of nocking point

 

[singoo]

Thanks a lot for the suggestions.

Attached some pics of my new string setup. Made sure the top and bottom cams are timed correctly. ADA and brace height are as spec. I don't have a draw board and bow scale to measure the DL and DW. DL feels about the same as compared with the old string. The draw weight is a bit heavier as my feeling.

Like some fellows mentioned. I didn't take the measurement for the bow with my old string and that's my lack of experience. I am hesitated to start over since that's very time consuming. I know my bow relatively well since I do all the tuning myself.

I kind of not trusting my local pro shop staffs due to their lack of knowledge. Last time I walked in and have them help me to order a replacement roller cable guard for my halon 32 7", and I asked if they needed to order a specific one for my halon 32 7" since the length of the roller cable guard should varied based of the brace height of my halon. And the staff said 7" brace height roller cable guard is the same for 6" and 5" brace height. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I think I am just so used to the feeling from my old string. But still the bow is noisier and heavier for me. But don't make me wrong, I do shoot about the same after switching to the new string, just don't like the noisiness.

But by looking at the pics, do you guys see something wrong?

 

[wvbowhunter09]

Is cables correct? Think they may be crossed......maybe I'm wrong.
This is a triax I know but look at cables.

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[duckdawg1]

Your cables maybe routed wrong

 

[laserbeam1001]

Your cable are crossing above the roller slide instead of below, should be across from the bow grip.

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[nuts&bolts]

Your cables maybe routed wrong

His cables are routed correctly, and the cam sync (some call it cam timing) is also correct. His bow appears to be in spec.

 

[nuts&bolts]

Your cable are crossing above the roller slide instead of below, should be across from the bow grip.

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No. Not for the Halon 32. Factory webpage for the Halon 32, has the cables crossing above the roller guard.