[REFLEXDEFLEX]

If you want to go low-budget, go with car paint.
It won't last forever, especially on the limbs, but you'll get some life out of it.
Otherwise, powdercoat it.

I would sand the paint off, that way you'll end up with a nice rough surface for new paint to stick on.

 

[REFLEXDEFLEX]

oh and BTW, post some pics of your bow, so we can have a basic idea of what we're suggesting.

 

[RiverCitySaint]

oh and BTW, post some pics of your bow, so we can have a basic idea of what we're suggesting.

You got it. I'll post them here in just a bit and you can see what a diamond in the rough this really is.
I know I can take the money I will spend on this project and simply buy new one, but I want to do this myself and have a great bow that I built to the way I want it Sort of a "pride in my own work" sort of thing.

 

[Big Shot]

What kind of finish was on it to start?? Paint/Powdercoat/Anodized/Dipped??

 

[RiverCitySaint]

oh and BTW, post some pics of your bow, so we can have a basic idea of what we're suggesting.

Here are the pics for y'all :


I have been asked what kind of finish I want. Flat black, nothing for light to reflect off of. Not sure which kind though.

Yeah, this thing is a mess and is just waiting to be refinished !

 

[REFLEXDEFLEX]

Wooo... looks like it's been spraypainted...
spray a layer over it, and chip the paint off the cam.

 

[RiverCitySaint]

Wooo... looks like it's been spraypainted...
spray a layer over it, and chip the paint off the cam.

LOL no way man. I'm taking it down to the metal and re-do it correctly.

 

[REFLEXDEFLEX]

perfectionist eh?
i like your style.

keep us posted, and we'll try to help when help is needed :wink:

 

[araz2114]

That is a Magnesium riser... so remember you don't want to bead/sand blast it. We don't want any accidents. Sanding is the way to go for sure. I personally would select a different bow for a restoration and here is why.

1. The riser isn't cut out... so release shooting off it isn't best...
2. The cams are plastic... who knows how "near death" they are...
3. It may be too old.... when you complete it it will look great but if you break anything it may become landfill as parts will be near impossible to find and all your work will be lost.

I like your style and I have a crap load of "pride in workmanship" also, but this may not be the one to put your effort into...

If you do take it on then "more power to you" and I will try to support you all the way...

 

[bscman]

There are a lot of chemical paint strippers out there that will not harm fiberglass or aluminum/magnesium...there might even be one or two that are plastic safe.

I'd suggest you go that route, rather than sanding (at least, on the limbs). It'll be less time-intensive, and you don't have to worry about sanding too far or raising splinters with the limbs.

It'd be best to fully dis-assembly the bow...which means a press is needed.

Flat Black rattle-can paint will work, but being a 1-part paint it's not going to be very durable...the flat paints seem to be some of the worst.

If you want to go "budget" with a paint that WILL last...go with duracoat. It'll be about $16 for duracoat and hardener...but it needs to be sprayed on (airbrush, small HVLP, or even a testors "compressed air in a can" el-cheapo kit).

Proper prep is key (acetone to 100% degrease) for duracoat to adhere...but it is flexible enough not to chip, or flex off the limbs, and extremely durable. It can be had in flat or semi-gloss.

Good luck!

 

[Diamond113]

I would Strip the paint with 3m aircraft paint stripper{LOWES Wallyworld} I have used this on steel, alum. & itscheap $5.00 and will work great. You will have to read if it would harm the limbs but for all the metal parts your good . This will save you a lot of sanding. For the re-painting I would check some of my friend at the factories they work at we have wet & powder-coating in the shop and the guys are allways doing "goverment" jobs for each other. Hope this helps. If you can't Find anyone send it to me we have flat black powder.:thumbs_up

 

[Hoosieroutdoors]

Finding a cam and idler for that bow may not be very easy,,I would go on PSE`s website and on the left side click tech info, measure your brace height then you will have to sift through the years and find a bow with the same brace height and see what cam it has on it,,be careful because PSE has discontinued alot of cams and finding draw module will be a pain. You may want to look into Tarjac.com they do all kinds of custom dipping with different skins, you could always paint the riser yourself then send out the limbs and limb pockets to get dipped,,dipping will last longer on the limbs than painting.

 

[fgant10]

stripper

try a citrus based stripper, non-toxic. shouldn't eat magnesim or fiberglass

 

[NMP]

You shouldnt be able to find a single cam that will work with those limbs. The V is not large enough for the cam to work properly in and still be positioned right. Do not use a chemical stripper on the limbs. They are laminated wood and will come apart sooner or later if introduced to that stuff. Use sandpaper and elbow grease on those.

 

[JZingo]

Paint it any way you want, but after that, donate it to a museum, as allthough you want a project, this is not a place to start. Tear drop cables/strings, and old outdated limbs/materials. I would love to be there after you set it up with new cams..etc. to see this....I just wouldnt stand too close!

 

[Protecsafari]

It's an old PSE Nova. They were slightly faster than the Vectors. Both IIRC were 41" axle to axle. Novas were known to get cam lean pretty easily.

For restoration, early models had black risers and limbs (limbs had orange graphics).Yours is a later model, due to the yoke harness (early models did not have yokes). I'd guess yours at being around '87 ish. The limb graphics then should be grey or silver?

BTW the limbs of the Vectors and Novas were not laminated wood, they were all glass.

FWIW people still kill deer with such "outdated bows". Back in the day I never blew a cable or string, not even with the 50K shots I ripped through my Mach 4 at 82# (did blow the riser, but put it all back with a new one, same cables and string).

Somebody made the comment about not being release worthy due to not being cut past center- you can shoot it just fine (assuming it is sound and safe). Some rests may not work, but if going with let's say a Huntmaster 2000 (cushion plungeron the inside) you could tune and shoot it for feathers.

I know a ton of people who did back in the day.