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Are you shooting a command cam?
reverently seeking wisdom.....
OK, here is the deal. My set up is this. 2002 Hoyt Havoc tec, 29.5" draw, 28.75" Lightspeed arrow that weighs 377 g., pulling 73 lbs.
My understanding, from reading both threads and articles in magazines, is that the difference between shooting from the wall versus the valley is very minor in regard to speed, on a two cam bow. Do to no instruction when I started (or just plain ignorance) I have always shot from full draw, all the way against the wall. With my current setup, the wall yeilds 275 fps. When I pull her all the way back, then creep forward, she blows the arrow out at 285 fps. outside of the obvious conclusion (creep a little and let her fly) are there any opinions? Normal? Not normal? Learn to shoot correctly? Thanks
My understanding, from reading both threads and articles in magazines, is that the difference between shooting from the wall versus the valley is very minor in regard to speed, on a two cam bow. Do to no instruction when I started (or just plain ignorance) I have always shot from full draw, all the way against the wall. With my current setup, the wall yeilds 275 fps. When I pull her all the way back, then creep forward, she blows the arrow out at 285 fps. outside of the obvious conclusion (creep a little and let her fly) are there any opinions? Normal? Not normal? Learn to shoot correctly? Thanks
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Single cam or 2 cams. Hard to tell you much unless you know what cam is on it. You should find a reapeatable anchor point. If you are getting a 10 fps drop in speed, I would not take my draw right to the stops. Try to hold in the middle of the valley and see if you are more consistent.
To have any consistancy with a two cam, and shooting from the valley, you will have to have the same draw length each time. This is something I did to help in this area. I'd draw the bow and anchor exactly where I wanted, and then have someone put a spot of white-out, side by side, on the string and cable, near where they cross. A quick glance on each draw to see that these dots lined up, told me I had my draw length the same. This can help give you the consistancy you need on the draw length.
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Good idea Steve!
Steve,
You blew it! You had your golden marketing opportunity and you just let the cat out of the bag. You could have relabeled bottles of white-out "draw check" or "draw perfect" and sold them for $20 a bottle. Buy a couple of 2 page ads in the bow rags hyping the easy, sure fire method for consistent draw every time!!!!! You would have had mega sales!
Thanks for the freebie! Now, why didn't I think of that?!
You blew it! You had your golden marketing opportunity and you just let the cat out of the bag. You could have relabeled bottles of white-out "draw check" or "draw perfect" and sold them for $20 a bottle. Buy a couple of 2 page ads in the bow rags hyping the easy, sure fire method for consistent draw every time!!!!! You would have had mega sales!
Thanks for the freebie! Now, why didn't I think of that?!
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1,859 Posts
Most of us serious target guys did that back in the 80's when we shot round wheel bows. Someone even had a two piece "draw lock" which mounted to the cables allowing you to adjust where you wanted to be in the valley and they would not allow you to overdraw past that point. Pretty cool, but w/ modern cams the wall is easier to shoot from - from a consistency standpoint.
Sean
Sean
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268 Posts
Steve,
Great idea.
Great idea.
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2,559 Posts
Martin sold that "Draw Check".
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