Archery Talk Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Is it not "usually" 1" past your arrow rest? The longer the arrow the heavier obviuosly but if the arrows won't paper tune and tear good then it would be a right thing to do to cut them shorter and try different weight tips until it tunes, right?

Current set-up:

28" draw, #68, 29" arrow and 125 grain tip for a total of 440 grain arrow.

Now the arrows sticks out 2 1/2" past the rest. If I was to cut it down then I will loose weight obviuosly and could possibly get a 100 grain tip to tune better than the 125, correct? (Thinking of cutting to 27" or possibly 26") My weight would then be around 415 grains and I would then pick up speed too. I just can not get the arrows to tune at ALL!! Been trying for 2 days. Arrows are Cabelas Extreme Stalkers 65/80,,basically Bemans as we all know.

ANy info would be helpful...

S&B
 

·
300 or bust
Joined
·
13,140 Posts
Use the length to get spine right as well

There is so much that goes on with arrows, length, spine FOC, tip weight, inserts, pin nocks, regular nocks, fletching, wraps, etc... It will make your head spin

Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,902 Posts
I'd start with using different point weights than to start hacking on my arrows. I don't care if the shafts sticks 5" out in front of my bow when drawn as long as it flys right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
soooooo

What if changing field tip weight does not change anything? we had 125's on, switched to 100's and no change.

Also I am trying to figure out why there is so much grey area with a 28" draw with 70 DW.
been told the arrow should be past the riser, also have been told 1 inch less your DL, have also been told 1 inch past your rest, this was recent

does it come down to buy some of these...see how they shoot, sell 'em if they don't shoot right, buy something else give it a try.....repeat as necessary?

Skin & I are scratching our heads on this one:angry:

downloaded the trial version of ontarget2, now more confused then ever, the (short) list of green arrows listed were mostly ones I've not heard of, but spines of 360 to 375. no victory, goldtips, or commonly heard of bemans or easton arrows were listed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,326 Posts
What if changing field tip weight does not change anything? we had 125's on, switched to 100's and no change.

Also I am trying to figure out why there is so much grey area with a 28" draw with 70 DW.
been told the arrow should be past the riser, also have been told 1 inch less your DL, have also been told 1 inch past your rest, this was recent

does it come down to buy some of these...see how they shoot, sell 'em if they don't shoot right, buy something else give it a try.....repeat as necessary?

Skin & I are scratching our heads on this one:angry:

downloaded the trial version of ontarget2, now more confused then ever, the (short) list of green arrows listed were mostly ones I've not heard of, but spines of 360 to 375. no victory, goldtips, or commonly heard of bemans or easton arrows were listed.
Spine issue??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
Here is an arrow tuning guide by Easton.
http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf
I don't know if you've seen it before but there is some really great information about how to read the tear when paper tuning. It allows you to figure out if your arrow spine may be too weak or too stiff. If it is too weak then shortening the shaft, dropping point weight, or dropping draw weight on the bow will stiffen it. If it is too stiff you want to keep all the arrow length you have and try to break down the spine by adding weight up front or increasing bow draw weight.

On Target 2 is a great resource as already stated, but it takes a while to learn how to use it. If there are only a few arrows in the green and none of them are what you like then you should pick an arrow that you like that is close to the green and then experiment with the program by slightly changing your setup (adding or reducing point weight, lengthening or shortening the arrow shaft, changing fletching, changing your draw weight, etc...) until that arrow that was in the yellow area now becomes green.

If you pm me all of your info I'll run it for you to see what comes up. In addition to the information you gave us above I need to know what type of bow you shoot and what year it is. Also let me know if you have anything on your string (D-loop, nocking points, string silencers, etc...). I should be able to find something that will work.
 

·
Archery Addict
Joined
·
9,149 Posts
Personally, for me as long as the broadhead clears the shelf, I usually cut the arrows to about 1/2 inch past the rest. Using my Code Red rest as an example, on my GT500, I have a 29.6 inch draw. The rest sits back about 2" and I have my arrows cut at 28". According to TAP and OT2, With my GT500 @ 29.6/71#, a Maxima Hunter 350 @ 28" with a 100 gr tip is slightly on the weak side of perfect. Changing to a 75 gr. tip it is right in the middle. Using a Maxima 450 (.300 spine) at the same length and 100 gr. tip is slightly to the stiff side of perfect. At 28.5 inches it would be perfect for the 450's. However, my 28" MH350's at 394 grs (including 100 gr. tip) shoot great with field tips and Slick Tricks.. The .300 spined ones shoot the same with a small adjustment to the rest. You can get too caught up in making sure you have the perfect spine, weight tip, length, etc. You can be slightly off from perfect (TAP and OT2) and still be able to tune your bow to shoot them great. But, a severely weak spined arrow or a severely stiff spined arrow is not going to give you your best performance w/o major changes to your setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,341 Posts
Is it not "usually" 1" past your arrow rest? The longer the arrow the heavier obviuosly but if the arrows won't paper tune and tear good then it would be a right thing to do to cut them shorter and try different weight tips until it tunes, right?

Current set-up:

28" draw, #68, 29" arrow and 125 grain tip for a total of 440 grain arrow.

Now the arrows sticks out 2 1/2" past the rest. If I was to cut it down then I will loose weight obviuosly and could possibly get a 100 grain tip to tune better than the 125, correct? (Thinking of cutting to 27" or possibly 26") My weight would then be around 415 grains and I would then pick up speed too. I just can not get the arrows to tune at ALL!! Been trying for 2 days. Arrows are Cabelas Extreme Stalkers 65/80,,basically Bemans as we all know.

ANy info would be helpful...

S&B
Give us more detail, What bow where your centershot is, how is your cam lean both top and bottom what rest are you shooting, what type of tuning are you trying, paper, walkback(IMHO useless), or broadhead.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
its actually my bow :)

Give us more detail, What bow where your centershot is, how is your cam lean both top and bottom what rest are you shooting, what type of tuning are you trying, paper, walkback(IMHO useless), or broadhead.
i have an 07 black ice nothing changed on the string except a D-loop, 28" draw, maxed weight at 70ish, shooting an apache rest now (had a 360 quick tune, same probs) shooting cabela stalker extreme 28.5 in with the 2" blazers and a 125 gr field point.

the bad part is, its not shooting consistant and I know part is the shooter, but taking my time not torquing the bow, and consintrating on my follow through.......all that good stuff. If memory serves me right we have a point hit then vanes are 1/2 inch to the left on the paper tuning at 4 feet. I jumped on the easton tuning website provided a couple posts ago and the website even states to hack off the arrow 1 1/8 past the rest. with the apache rest I could go down to a 26" arrow.....Idk,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
XT 5575's Will Spine Correctly With Adjustment

Polar Daddy, I got the pm with the arrows you currently have (Cabelas Stalker Extreme 6580, Goldtip Pro Hunter 7595, and Goldtip XT Hunter 5575) and the description of your bow setup. Here's what I got...

Here are some screen shots from OnTarget. The first 3 show your arrows (as you described them in the pm you sent me) being shot from your bow as currently setup. I didn't know the exact weight of your cat whiskers so I guessed (about 30 grains?). The Stalker Extremes and Pro Huters were too stiff as they are right now, and the XT's are too weak.

The 4th screen shot shows your XT's with a few small changes. Cut the shafts to 27" (this is the carbon part of the shaft only) and use the 100 grain tips. After you have cut the shafts I assumed you wanted to refletch them with 4" vanes because that is what you said you had on them right now. They spine out nicely with these small adjustments.

The pics turned out a little grainy, but if you click on them you'll get a slightly larger version. The main thing is to look at where the indicator arrow is on the spine scale.

As far as I know there is no hard and fast rule about where to cut your shafts in relation to the riser. You definitely want to make sure they stick out past your rest (I would say by an inch to be safe) and allow your broadhead to clear the riser and the shelf when you draw your bow. If your arrows meet these criteria then cut them so they spine correctly.


OnTarget has been dead on for me as far as spine is concerned. If you are still having trouble getting these to fly I would look at other issues (fletching contact, nocking point, rest position etc...)

Let me know if you have any other questions. I hoped this helped.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
Here are some that meet the 6 grains per lb rule

Here are some different shafts that will meet your needs (Notice that the grs/lb box is over 6 for all of them). I used a 125 grain tip in all of them to get your weight up. I also chose 2" blazers as your fletching. Notice that the lengths are a little different to get the proper spine. I also tried to use the nocks and inserts that would come standard with each shaft (that is why the nock and insert weights are different for some of them).
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
rholson,
thanks that gives me some options, I tried the epics a while ago, they didn't work too well:wink:
but thank you for the advice and different arrow options, I'll have to figure out ontarget to find options for arrows.:darkbeer::darkbeer:
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top