[Tilzbow]

Today I got my new RX1 Ultra bare shaft and broadhead tuned. Since this is new technology and tuned different for me than past years Hoyt bows I thought it might be helpful to start a thread where we could post our tuned Redworks specs so others had a reference to set start with.

My specs ended up at:

Actual Draw Length = 30 3/8” (set at the 30.5”, F slot)
Actual Draw Weight = 72# with limb bolts fully tightened
Arrow weight = Carbon Express Maxima @ 435 grains, .300 spine, 100 grain point
Speed = 305 FPS
Rest = 11/16” from center
Nock = 1/32” low
Cams in sync so they’re both hitting the stops at the same time. No top cam advancement required.
Zero cam lean, no yoke twists

I had trouble getting rid of a slight nock left and the best I could do was my broadheads impacting a few inches right at 40 yards. I tried lots of rest positions, yoke tuning and different grips without much luck. I finally lengthened my draw length 1/2” and voila, she tuned up real quick!

Good luck with yours!

 

[Velvetbuck0]

Mine tunes right at 13/16 center shot with no yoke twists and nock level and I get bullet holes and broadheads hit the same as my field points but then again I don't have stock strings on mine either.

 

[MBG Hunter]

Ttt

 

[nontypical225]

mine tuned at 27/32 center shot no cam lean, but it tuned like 1/32" nock high cams hitting at the same time. Perfect bullet holes and broadhead flight. hitting the same all the way back to 80 yards.

 

[zernzm08]

Trying to bring this older thread back to life. I'm getting a slight nock right with my bs at 20 yards with a 3/4 center shot and no cam lean from my Ultra. Going to try adding a twist to the right yoke and removing from left. Was just curious if anyone is needing to shim there Rx-1?

 

[CHobbs]

Today I got my new RX1 Ultra bare shaft and broadhead tuned. Since this is new technology and tuned different for me than past years Hoyt bows I thought it might be helpful to start a thread where we could post our tuned Redworks specs so others had a reference to set start with.

My specs ended up at:

Actual Draw Length = 30 3/8” (set at the 30.5”, F slot)
Actual Draw Weight = 72# with limb bolts fully tightened
Arrow weight = Carbon Express Maxima @ 435 grains, .300 spine, 100 grain point
Speed = 305 FPS
Rest = 11/16” from center
Nock = 1/32” low
Cams in sync so they’re both hitting the stops at the same time. No top cam advancement required.
Zero cam lean, no yoke twists

I had trouble getting rid of a slight nock left and the best I could do was my broadheads impacting a few inches right at 40 yards. I tried lots of rest positions, yoke tuning and different grips without much luck. I finally lengthened my draw length 1/2” and voila, she tuned up real quick!

Good luck with yours!

Are you running a limb driven rest, and if so, where is it tied off to the limb in regards to distance away from the cam?

I having a pretty bad nock high bareshaft running a Hamskea rest. Tried nock high and nock low, bot the same results. Cams are synched and hitting dead nuts. Left Right bare shaft is perfect. I have had issues with beyond parallel limbs before with these rests, and know that it is generally a matter of finding the sweet spot on the limb to where there is not too much limb movement for activation and bounce back, but to where there is also enough to where the cord actually fully slacks to bring the rest all the way up at full draw.

Any thoughts?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[Putt4Doe]

Are you running a limb driven rest, and if so, where is it tied off to the limb in regards to distance away from the cam?

I having a pretty bad nock high bareshaft running a Hamskea rest. Tried nock high and nock low, bot the same results. Cams are synched and hitting dead nuts. Left Right bare shaft is perfect. I have had issues with beyond parallel limbs before with these rests, and know that it is generally a matter of finding the sweet spot on the limb to where there is not too much limb movement for activation and bounce back, but to where there is also enough to where the cord actually fully slacks to bring the rest all the way up at full draw.

Any thoughts?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I'm waiting on my RX-1, so not sure exactly on this bow, but in the past, I've run my limb activated rests right around the front of the cam. On the Halon 32's though, I found moving it up to the highest point of the arc worked best for my hamskea.... Hope that makes since. If not, let me know and I'll try to take some pictures.