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Discussion Starter #1
I'm still pretty new here and not sure if this goes here but I have a few questions since getting my rx1 turbo. My bow is 29" DL and 70 lbs I'm curious about arrow selection and paper tuning it. The shop I got it from sold me 300 spine Easton fmjs and told me to wait to get it paper tuned until the strings have been shot in. In the mean time I had to get a new d loop tied on and went to a shop that was right by the house and they said my d loop was tied on unlevel. The retired it and set the arrow up with a laser sight and said it was a bit crooked too. We began talking and he then told me 300 spines were too stiff and needed 350 spines. Is this true and we also got to talking about paper tuning and said thats not a accurate way due to everyone shooting different. So my question is are my shafts too stiff? And is paper tuning really a necessary thing?

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I’ve got an rx-1 turbo also and I’m shooting 300 spine fmj. I’m in the process of paper tuning now. At first I had a bad nock right tear but added 2 twist in the right yoke and almost got it right, still just a little nock right. I’m gonna get back too it tomorrow and see if I can get it shooting perfect holes. I’m also 29”, 70 #
 

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300 spine should be perfect for your set up.. and paper tuning to me is a must . On a hoyt you set The bow up to shoot right down the middle then you tune the bow by paper tear.. But a paper tear can also show improper form. But it’s always a starting baseline to getting your bow to shoot properly. But with your paper tear you know if you need to yoke tune and so on.



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Discussion Starter #4
Well I ended up getting some 350 spines from the other shop and they shoot great but not I'm torn between what's right and wrong. The other thing is the shop I got the bow from doesn't let you shoot through paper they do it for you and I'm not having that. I wish I had more stuff to do it myself.

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I made a simple paper truing stand out of a cheap tripod and a brass catcher. The brass catcher was for shooting pistols but it's just a hoop that had a net. I removed the net and just taped some cardboard with an opening to take a sheet of printer paper. It wouldn't be great for high volume use but it's great for home. I got the idea from a John Dudley video where he taped a sheet of paper to his Chrono that's on top of a tripod for this purpose. I figure if I get a Chrono then I already have the tripod.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm gonna have to try something bc it's eating at me. Just wish I had all the stuff to start tuning on my own

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You can make a holder for paper tuning out of 3/4" PVC pipe and 4 PVC elbows. Use those to make an 18" x 12" rectangle, mount this on a cheap Walmart tripod, then buy some Christmas wrapping paper that's on sale, cut to size and tape to the PVC frame with masking tape. I've found wrapping paper to be perfect for paper tuning, just make sure you get the stuff that's one color and shoot through with the white facing you so you can read the hole.

To really advance your tuning you're going to need a press and a draw board. That said if the shop timed your cams (which you should verify) the only adjustment you should have to make to get this bow shooting is moving the rest in 1/32" increments side to side and up and down. Look up the Dudley videos on Nock On TV and find the one that explains paper tuning since he explains it as well as anyone.
 

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I’ve got my centershot at 13/16 and arrow dead level and keep getting a nock high right tear. Any suggestions on what move to make first?
 

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I’ve got my centershot at 13/16 and arrow dead level and keep getting a nock high right tear. Any suggestions on what move to make first?
 

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I’ve got my centershot at 13/16 and arrow dead level and keep getting a nock high right tear. Any suggestions on what move to make first?
 

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I’ve got my rest set at 13/16 and nock dead level and I’m getting a nock high right tear. Any suggestions on the move I should make?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I finally got a chance to rig something up to shoot through the first tear is from the 350 spine black eagle arrows. Second tear is the fmj 300 spine did have to move my nock up just a tad to get it perfect but I'm much happier with it knowing it's shooting right through paper. But I have one question, I remembered the guy at the shop set my fmj arrows up an inch longer due if I feel things need to be tweaked. If I get these cut to 29 like needed is this gonna make the 300 spines to stiff?


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I had the axis 340's cut to 29 inches and shooting a reign 6 at 71 lbs and they were under spined switched to the 300 and they are perfect
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well that's good to hear. Thanks for the input guys still gonna tweak with things over the next few days and keep y'all posted

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I finally got a chance to rig something up to shoot through the first tear is from the 350 spine black eagle arrows. Second tear is the fmj 300 spine did have to move my nock up just a tad to get it perfect but I'm much happier with it knowing it's shooting right through paper. But I have one question, I remembered the guy at the shop set my fmj arrows up an inch longer due if I feel things need to be tweaked. If I get these cut to 29 like needed is this gonna make the 300 spines to stiff?


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300 spine should be fine at 29.
 

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I have bought fmj as well:

300 spine is fine but there are other factors besides poundage that determine the best spine to use.

You may need 125 grain heads (check your spine charts that indicate the weight of the head). Experiment with different weights up front and you should be fine. I think you want at least that to offset the arrow weight of the fmj and get sufficient Front of Centre (FOC).

Here are my notes for my fmj arrows:

FMJ Camo Easton Arrows

• 5mm (X) diameter thick walled carbon core shaft with 7075 aluminum metal jacket
• Limited edition retro woodland camo
• Includes 5mm (X) HIT insert and X nock
• Straightness tolerance: +/- .002"
• 300 (12 gpi), 340 (11.3 gpi), 400 (10.2 gpi), 500 (9.1 gpi)

Size Shaft Weight [email protected]" Span Stock Length RPS Point Broadhead Adapter Ring I.D.
GPI Deflection in inches Inches O.D. Inches Size (5Grains) Inches
500 9.1 0.500 31.0 17/64 BAR3 0.204
400 10.2 0.400 31.5 17/64 BAR3 0.204
340 11.3 0.340 32.0 9/32 BAR5 0.204
300 12 0.300 32.5 9/32 BAR5 0.204

Arrow weight and broadhead weight

Elknut summarizes it this way:
"Bottom line for those who are serious about both their penetration & speed balance for their setup, stay in the 6.5--6.7 grain X YOUR draw wt. 70# X 6.6 = 462grn arrow wt. That's an example & an arrow wt you can take to the bank! This is for compound bows! If you draw over 29" add 10grn per each addition*inch to your arrow wt. That's 472grn for a 30" draw!"

28 Inch arrow at 12 g/in + 125 g BH + 16g HIT insert = 477 g (ideal 6.7 x 70# = 470)

FOC - should be between 7-15% (check the goldtip arrow web site for a FOC cacluator)

Easton Brass HIT inserts

• Full inserts weight: 75gr (25gr module can be removed)

Easton ST AXIS HIT Insert
• 8-32 THREAD, WEIGH 16 GRAINS
 

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I’m actually running 260 axis in my Rx-1

28.5inches 125g heads 50g brass inserts. Probably a bit over spined but also work in my 80lb custom shop hoyt

555g @ 258fps.

Bullet hole on the first shot
 

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Measure the ATA and brace height to make sure your string and cable lengths aren't all jacked up. If they are then get that right before you do anything else. If that's good, then move on...

Keep twisting the right yoke and equally untwisting the left until the top cam is running parallel with the string. Make sure the the cam stops are hitting the cable at the same time or the top cam is hitting just before the bottom. Then with the arrow 90 degrees to the string and starting about 7/8" off the riser start shooting through paper.

The high right tear seems to be really common with this new cam system. Also take the field point out of your arrow and make sure it draws all the way back smooth on your rest. If it is bucking and moving around then you have nock pinch. Put a little gap under your nock by sliding the bottom of the loop down. You should be able to move the nock up and down a bit on the string with the bow at brace height.

I have been able to get 400, 340, 300 spine to all tear perfect at 65#/ 30" with the right tune. A lot of bows won't do that. This new cam/ cable design is a good one.
 
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