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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is anybody done a side by side comparison of the saunders hyperslide versus the PSE roller slide specifically in the area of vane clearance. Does the PSE roller hold the cables farther away from the cable rod or closer to the cable rod when compared to the saunders. My bow currently has the saunders on it and I'm getting some cable chewing so I'm wanting to maybe switch to the PSE roller but vane clearance is a definite issue it can't stick out any further than the Saunders cuz I'm almost touching my vanes now.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What bow? All you need is 1/16" to 1/8" clearance. Or just plainly adjust your nock for clearance.
Athens Vista 33. Yeah got the vanes set to where got the most clearance available and everything is good just wondering does the PSE bring the cables any further out than the Saunders cause I ain't got much to give.

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Neither one of em. I hate to say sacrilegious things like this, but the most reliable, trouble free setup is a regular plastic slide. I don't know if the PSE one is still made anymore, but the Hoyt is and there are other aftermarket ones too.

Don't ask me why I say this, but I'll tell you anyway. I finally took the fancy PSE roller slide on my Focus out to the barn and shot it the last time the little screws came out on a critical shot. That's always when those roller slides break or come loose and fail on you. Never at any other time - only when you need them not to come apart the most is when they will. That was the last straw, so I put my trusty spare PSE plastic slide on the bow and that's what it'll wear for the rest of its life.

There's nothing wrong with the plastic slides and a good one won't tear up your cables even if they aren't served where they go through the slide. But the best thing is you never have to worry about chasing little screws and rollers and bearings on a part that just plain doesn't need them, right at the moment of truth/buck of a lifetime/etc when you most desperately need it not to disassemble itself on you.

Yes I know that's sacrilege, but that's my story and I'm stickin' to it....

lee.
 

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Funny you mention that. I recently put a Saunders on my backup bow and ended up pulling it off in favor of the limbsaver slide. The Saunders seems a bit flimsy though I'm sure it would have been fine.

AAE slipper slide has also worked out well for me in once case. In another instance it chewed up a cable due to a mold mark where the cable rides.
 

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Funny you mention that. I recently put a Saunders on my backup bow and ended up pulling it off in favor of the limbsaver slide. The Saunders seems a bit flimsy though I'm sure it would have been fine.

AAE slipper slide has also worked out well for me in once case. In another instance it chewed up a cable due to a mold mark where the cable rides.
Exactly. The problem with roller slides is they are not maintenance free parts. They do need maintenance but it's required so infrequently that you can't ever remember to keep up with it. And it is exactly the last time you forgot to tighten the little screws (on the PSE, for example), or check for something broken/flattened/worn etc. inside them is when they will strand you. You'll be somewhere where you don't have your tools and/or you'll be at full draw in an absolutely critical situation. That is exactly when those things will let you down.

A plastic slide, OTOH, is a completely maintenance-free part. You only need to get a good one with no ridges, edges, etc. when you first put it on, and then you never have to think about it again until it wears out. Which is literally years down the road.

So anyway, that's why you need to Just Say No to the roller slide fad. It's a new random failure point on your bow that you don't need to have a failure point at, for more money, more weight, more noise, etc.

I usually use the PSE when I can get it, otherwise the Hoyt slide is pretty good too....

lee.
 

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I swapped them out on my Drive NXT and have not had any issues.
 

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The Pse will not work on every bow depending on the rod position. Its a better slide, but does stand off the rod more. One thing a little wonky with some aftermarket rollers is the wheels are not in perfect alignment with the cables. Where on some factory designs they are. So there is that, it works most times, but not perfect. Unless someone has tried the exact combination, you have to try it yourself sometimes to figure out. I have before just went back to the original slide on some bows because I figured out I wasn't improving much. Just a case by case basis.
 

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The roller slide is a nice idea, but, I don't think it's any better than an AAE slide. I switched to the AAE slide on my field bow and didn't see any difference in point of impact or cable wear. I always put blue Loctite on the roller screws. I also noticed on the PSE roller slides they didn't roll smoothly. I removed the cables and rolled the slide on the cable guard rod, the slide wobbled. It appeared the holes were not centered on the rollers causing the wobble. I checked the three I had and they all wobbled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I feel pretty stupid at the moment because it just dawned on me my bow has an angled cable rod that you can rotate so even if it is a little longer I can just rotate my cable rod farther away to compensate. But I definitely appreciate all the feedback.

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Well I feel pretty stupid at the moment because it just dawned on me my bow has an angled cable rod that you can rotate so even if it is a little longer I can just rotate my cable rod farther away to compensate. But I definitely appreciate all the feedback.

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Not only that but that is another way to tune it.
 

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I have the PSE rollers on both my bows and have never had a problem.
 

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Well I feel pretty stupid at the moment because it just dawned on me my bow has an angled cable rod that you can rotate so even if it is a little longer I can just rotate my cable rod farther away to compensate. But I definitely appreciate all the feedback.

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The only problem with that on the Athens Vista series bows is that you will have cable contact on the left side of the top cam early in the draw cycle if you rotate the cable rod out even a little bit. It’s because of the tri-track cams and the cables coming off both sides of the cams. I am running the cable rod with the bend up instead of down on my Vista 35 to give me more clearance. It puts the Saunders well above the fletching.

 

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Bear moment 65#, Elite Impulse 31 81.5#, Xpedition Xscape 80.5#, Hoyt turbo hawk rkt cams 75.5#
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PSE on elite impulse impulse 31 and took stock roller of Xpedition and tried pse roller ended up with Saunders as it got rid of the metallic sound. If my Hoyt plastic guide would've fit I would've used that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The only problem with that on the Athens Vista series bows is that you will have cable contact on the left side of the top cam early in the draw cycle if you rotate the cable rod out even a little bit. It’s because of the tri-track cams and the cables coming off both sides of the cams. I am running the cable rod with the bend up instead of down on my Vista 35 to give me more clearance. It puts the Saunders well above the fletching.

Yeah the Vistas rod only has about a few centimeters it can be moved and still clear the vanes and the cam so not much help at all in tuning.

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