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Setting up QAD rests- How I do it.

13K views 18 replies 14 participants last post by  NM_HighPlains  
#1 ·
A simple way to get the timing right where it needs to be, I am sure others do it like this but have never seen it mentioned.

I start out by serving in a small piece of Halo on the down cable near the bottom of the grip.
Then I loosen the cord on the QAD to make it is long as possible.
Tie the cord to the down cable, below the serving you installed, using the D-loop knot, cinch it up tight.
Put bow on drawboard and see what the DL is, now draw bow on drawboard and stop about an 1"-1 1/2" from full draw.
Move rest arm all the way up till stop and hold it, pull cord threw rest till tight and now tighten screw to hold cord in place.
Remove bow from drawboard.
If enough cord is left over make a knot and move as close to cord opening on rest as possible.
If cord is not long enough for knot just trim and burn a ball end.

This is a nice clean and durable way to get your rest working right on the first try.
 
#5 ·
IMO nothing is easier than simply putting the rest cord through the cable and drawing the bow.... You're done unless you choose to also serve it in, which I've only found necessary for low poundage/kids bows.

 
#8 ·
Not a fan of splitting the cable. I did do that when I was using Trophy Takers but I think using the clove hitch on the down cable is easier and more secure. This method in the video I would always serve it in.
 
#6 ·
My shop puts it in the down cable and serves it in.
Serving it in and burning the end ensures it will not move or change timing.
Zero issues with any of the QADs I've used on several bows I've owned.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for sharing
 
#10 ·
I am a fan of splitting the cable, and I also serve above the rest cord everytime. I probably put a litte more serving than I used to in order to be sure it never moves. Not serving you are asking for trouble down the road. I time all of my cable activited drop aways so they come to full up at the last possible moment. IMO this ensures plenty of time for the rest to get out of the way of the arrow. I have had issues with a few having fletching contact if I time them to full up an inch or more before full draw.
 
#11 ·
Just so you know timing of the QAD is irrelevant as its drop is not controlled by the cord, It has been proven time and again that you do want the most "uptime" as possible for best accuracy. Rather than time the rest to get your arrow threw it how about switching to a lower profile vane with more helical for better clearance at the rest?? give a longer, lower profile vane with major helical a try, you will be pleasantly surprised.
 
#12 ·
Where can I find info that proves it's preferable for a QAD style rest to remain "up" as long as possible?
QAD's launchers are hard and rigid, unlike a blade, whisker bisket, or any other type of flexible or spring tension release. .... I definitely want the QAD launcher going DOWN as_soon_as_possible upon release.
 
#13 ·
The QAD rest going down is not controlled by the cord at all, cord cocks rest, rest drops on its own when bow is fired. Some other drop rests are controlled by the cord not the QAD. But you want as much guidance as possible with the other rests having it drop down just in time is much better than dropping right away.
 
#14 ·
With the QAD you want the timing marks on the rest to line up....too much tension on the cocking lever puts undue stress on the internals and will lead to premature failure. It may take a while but it'll happen.
 
#17 ·
Good info, thanks for the write up. I used to split the cable as well, but really like tying on the "D" loop style knot now on the activation chord. It also allows for twisting cables if tuning is necessary after install.
 
#19 ·
Good info, thanks for the write up. I used to split the cable as well, but really like tying on the "D" loop style knot now on the activation chord. It also allows for twisting cables if tuning is necessary after install.
This.
 
#18 ·
I tie the cord down as described by the OP (not through the cable, by using a D-loop knot), then loosen the cord lock screw on the rest where the chord just begins to slide out when you pull it (not loose).

Then I draw the bow (with an arrow in it!!); The cord will naturally slide through the rest to the position it should be at; then I lock it down by tightening the screw.

Finally I make fine adjustments to the chord, if needed, through the rest to make sure the timing marks perfectly line up at full draw and I'm done.

This method never failed me yet.